1977 ElectraGlide Restoration Project

[JW113]

Howdy all,

Well a couple weeks ago a running 1977 ElectraGlide that I bought off of Ebay rolled into my garage, and now there is a bunch of parts all over the place and a bare frame sitting on the floor. I've done a handfull of restorations, but is my first Shovelhead FLH. I hope you guys don't mind me posting the progress on it, and "look over my shoulder" to keep the train on the right tracks.

During the disassembly process, I was happy to find no bad surprises. The bike itself seems fairly stock, with a few exceptions:
- Super B carb & home made air cleaner
- BDL belt drive primary
- Mallory E-spark ignition w/ stock coil
- Biltwell 14" apes
- LePera Hollywood seat

It's been repainted, a so-so not terrible job but a few chips & stuff here and there. The front end seemed soft as hell, we could bottom it out just by rocking it with the front brake locked. When I took it for a spin before taking it apart, the front brake worked so-so, the rear almost non-existant. It also howled real loud at idle, which I tracked down to a very loose front caliper. And it also did not seem to have much for power, which for now I'm chalking up to a poorly tuned carb.

Other than that, I think it's got a lot of potential. My plan is to take it all apart, fix the stuff that needs fixing, and put
it back together. I want to make sure the frame, swing arm, and forks are straight. Will measure the frame tomorrow to see what 40 years of who knows what it's been through, and if all OK, send it off for powder coating.

I took the forks apart. The tube caps were *really* tight, and I had to heat one of them with the blue tipped wrench to get it off. That one also had essentially no oil in it. Pretty likely they had not been apart for a long time, if ever. Definitely need to be completely rebuilt.

Someone in the past painted the whole engine black expect for the nose cone and rocker boxes. Yuk! I'll take it all apart and have it bead blasted back to bare aluminum, and have a look at the bottom end and heads and fix what needs fixed.

Although I want to keep it basically stock, I plan to do the following:
- 40mm CV carb
- Crane Hi-4 single fire ignition
- Velva-touch or Hydra-glide tappets
- S&S Oil pump
- Mild cam, hopefully that's what's in there already

Am on the fence about painting it now or later. Also want to round up a spring police solo seat.

I want to keep the stock banana calipers and try to make them work as best they can. I really like the look of those big old calipers and 10" disks. If you have any tricks, I'd love to hear about it. Resleeve the master cylinders smaller perhaps?

So that's it for now, feel free to fire any tips my way!

see ya,
JW

[FSG]

pix, pix, pix   

[rageglide]

I agree, needs pictures.  (although I know he didn't take any    just like our road trips...)

[Old Crow]

Too bad you're thinking sprung solo.  I've got a complete air bladder cop seat setup that I'm not going to end up using.
Do you have any idea what Mustang wants for the pillion that matches the early air bladder seat with the basketweave upholstery?! 

The seat I'm getting rid of is the later, smooth seat with the HD logo embossed in the top.

[76shuvlinoff]

Do a compression check before you dig in. It'll tell you a lot.

Sounds like you're going to be overhauling the front suspension.

Those nanners are likely full of crud and corrosion  I was able to clean mine out and polish up the pucks and pots but eventually I swapped em out for better. This difference is at this point I am not concerned about authenticity... yet.. and my 76 would make a purist curl up in a corner and cry. If you are going to keep those brakes, go over all the caliper pins and bushings. That'll reduce a lot of rattle and eliminate drag. If the hoses are factory, let em go in the trash.

Sounds like you're going all the way, be sure to include swingarm and neck bearings on your check list.

The 40mm CV is a great choice for a shovel. Finding an unmolested one is the trick. I have a 40 in my possession somewhere but I know I changed out the spring, needle, and jetting. At the moment I'm not sure where any of that, including the carb, is right now. CRS is a bitch. 

And like FSG says, pix!

Good luck!
  Mark

[turboprop]

Have you considered sealing off the primary so it uses its own oil bath vs recirculating the engine oil?

[JW113]

OK, pics I got! Not by my camera, but from the ebay ad. :-)

I'll be going through and replacing pretty much every bearing in the chassis. Wheels, swing arm, neck, etc. The front forks need a total rebuild, you would not believe the black goo that trickled out of them. The right side fork drain plug would not come out, had to drill it, and got maybe 1oz of black crude to dribble out. The surface of the tubes is pretty worn, probably replace them. I'm more familiar with Evo/TC forks, so need to get educated how to replace the bushings in these early Showa sliders. Hope it doesn't involve a bunch of fance tools. Will start with TFM.

Speaking of swing arm, any harm in adding a grease zerk fitting so's to keep fresh grease in there?

Air spring seats, did they have those in the 70s? I thought that was a 90s cop Road King thing? I have a pogo spring seat on my Indian, and kind of like the way it rides. Bouncy yes, but pretty comfortable ride.

Yes, I should have done a compression check, but I figured that I'm going to tear it all down anyway to check the flywheel assembly, so what the heck. At best, the bottom end is OK, and a valve/ring job will freshen everything up. If it looks tired, then the whole pile will get rebuilt.

I'll snap some frame pics when I get it set up to do some measurements to check if it's bent up or not.

see ya,
JW


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[JW113]

Have you considered sealing off the primary so it uses its own oil bath vs recirculating the engine oil?

It has a BDL belt primary. I plan to keep that until it gives me a reason not to. Never had a belt primary before, so what the hey, might as well use this as an opportunity to find out what that's all about.

-JW


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[fourthgear]

  What fun !  Those Bushings in the lower Legs do take special tooling & expertise to replace properly . I sent mine off to have it done with new Tubes . There are few that do it any more .

[turboprop]

I missed that part about the belt primary. You probably already know, but that three finger hub is not the best setup. I ran an enclosed Primo belt drive for maybe ten years and beat the hell of it. Only had one problem and it was my own fault. A bolt in the inner primary backed out and tore the belt up pretty good. Was a long way from home. I limped the bike back to the hotel, next day the belt broke. As luck would have it, a local indi shop had the correct belt in stock. Other than that it worked great. Best of luck with the project.

[Slammers]

VERY cool bike JW. I like it. 

[76shuvlinoff]

VERY cool bike JW. I like it. 

Yes it is, I like the black bars too. Similar stance as my 76, same seat, makes me squirm at 50 miles and cry at 80.

Mark

[JW113]

So today I spent cleaning up the frame, and checking it for straightness. So you guys probably hate Californians right now, and I don't blame you. I was out in the garage all day, door wide open, was 76 degrees at 2:00 o'clock. Hank Williams, Dick Dale, Buck Owens, and Jerry Lee playing out the stereo. Life could not be much better!

I cleaned up the frame out in the driveway with a garden hose and a bottle of simple green. I think it was not a whole lot different than Deepwater Horizon, what a mess. But it did clean up nicely.

I then set up my frame checking jig in the garage. It does not take a whole lot of high tech to tell if a frame is within factory spec or not. Here's my not-so-high-tech "frame table" to see what sort of shape the frame is in. All it takes is a digital angle gauge and some adjustable jack stands. Crude yes, but it works.

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The front engine mount measured out at 0.1 degrees. Perfect!

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And the rear mount, 0.0. Can't get much closer than that.
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So far, so good, Seems pretty straight.

-JW

[JW113]

Next step was to see if the neck was OK. First check was neck to frame alignment:

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Then if the neck angle was good.

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So far, all is looking good. If this thing has been down or not, the frame seems as good as it left the factory. So off to the power coat guy it goes!

-JW

[Racepres]

Do yerself a favor and Double check even triple check alignment, and that belt could last indefinitely..Nothing wrong with a 3 finger clutch at all...Been runnin them for years, and yes tried the 5 finger...Set it up properly...

[Ohio HD]

Five adjustment studs, a good clutch retainer, like the link below. These are tunable for free play, and will not wear like the cheap plastic ones. An aluminum pressure plate like below. The clutch will feel engage smoother, no chatter, no dragging from the belt, find neutral easy, shifts with a click of the toe.



https://www.ymphd.com/Shovelhead-fws-Panhead-fws-Knucklehead/1973/Clutch/Hardware-and-Parts/Y001940/10335

http://store.road6customs.com/High-Performance-Pressure-Plate-for-66-E84-Shovelhead-r6cds243375.htm

[Racepres]

Ever try to sit on a 5 legged stool???

[Ohio HD]

 

[JW113]

  What fun !  Those Bushings in the lower Legs do take special tooling & expertise to replace properly . I sent mine off to have it done with new Tubes . There are few that do it any more .

Can you recommend where you sent yours? Think I'm going to have to find someplace to do this, I see the bushings need to be reamed with special reamer after the're pressed in.

Going to get a set of tubes on order from Forking by Frank this week. Hope they are easier to get hold of than they used to be!

thanks,
JW

[06roadglide]

Man I love them ole shovels!!  I'm sure you know, just take your time and use quality parts, toss out anything that's problematic and she'll be good to you for a very long time.

Here's my 78 FLH I did (started on) about 12 years ago.  It went through several phases before it ended up like this.

[rageglide]

Like that a lot 06roadglide!   Looks a lot like JWs roadking custom.   But cooler.

Looks like a 5speed trans slipped in there.

[fourthgear]

  What fun !  Those Bushings in the lower Legs do take special tooling & expertise to replace properly . I sent mine off to have it done with new Tubes . There are few that do it any more .

Can you recommend where you sent yours? Think I'm going to have to find someplace to do this, I see the bushings need to be reamed with special reamer after the're pressed in.

Going to get a set of tubes on order from Forking by Frank this week. Hope they are easier to get hold of than they used to be!

thanks,
JW

I sent mine to Bill's custom cycles in PA. , Looks like they still do them.
http://www.billscustomcycles.com/store.php

[JW113]

Thanks 4thgear, I will indeed give Bill's a call tomorrow!

I measured my fork tubes, and actually don't see that they are worn that much, they just ain't that pretty to look at. But since you don't see them, behind the tin, what the heck? Will double check though.

06roadglide, nice bike!! Hope mine is half as nice when I get done.

-JW

[JW113]

So I dropped my frame, swing arm, triple trees, and a whole bunch of misc frame brackets off at the power coater guy today. 20 pieces total, $400. Not bad.

Also found out Duncan Keller of Yankee Enginuity is back here in San Jose with a small shop, and has the tools to re-bush my fork sliders. Plan to go see him on Friday and drop them off, he wants to take a look at them. Says he almost never replaces the lower bushings, as they are hardly ever worn enough to require it.

cheers,
JW

[dr evo1]

looking at the way your checking the neck. checking the out side of the neck is a casting not a good place to check. the right way would be to have the bearing cups in the frame use a steel rod 1" diameter,  slide the rod into the neck with the bearings. with the frame level on the floor or your table let the rod go all the way to the floor. the rod should be center line of the frame. you can also put a angle finder on the top side of the rod and check the rake. when they powder coat they sand blast first. when they first blast check all the welds if you see any what looks like oil in or around the welds it could be cracking in the weld better to fix sooner then later. I blasted my 79 FX frame and saw what looked like tiny lines of oil at the welds where the lower rail meets the casting for the swing arm and the top left tube were the shock fender strut mount. I didn't know any better so I blasted that spot again till I couldn't see the oil. well after it was powder coated and all put together I got about 500 mi on my new resto a the frame broke.

[76shuvlinoff]

Something else to remember, oil and grease, general grunge, gets inside these frames. Even after cleaning and blasting it can run out in the oven and muck up the powder coating.  I had a couple spots that really fried my eggs when I got the frame back from pc.  I guess I hadn't spent enough time and energy cleaning after the blasting.

[JW113]

Re: checking frame alignment, I agree, using a tool to center off the neck bushings is ideal. Unfortunately, I don't have that. So what I do to do a basic check is to level the frame in the X and Y dimensions using the frame center post, and the rear frame struts. Then, I check all of the tubes in the frame for symmetry. If the down tubes, bottom tubes, etc, all read the the same from two axis on left and right, and the neck casting reads the same left & right, it's probably likely it has not been damaged. If it's taken a lick hard enough to damage the frame, the damage will not be symmetrical. One side is going to read different than the other.

I also measured to the dimensions and angles in the HD service manual, and it all checks out OK even though my method is a bit crude. Fortunatly, modern day technology gives us digital angle guages that read to 0.1 deg accuracy, very handy for a backyard garage dude like me!

Re: powder coating, the guy I use does TONS of bike frames. In fact when I dropped mine off, he had at least 4 other 4 speed frames in there in various stages of completion. After media blasting, he bakes them in the oven to get any of the oil and crap from the frame out. He says they ALL smoke for a while, then dry up. They blast them again to get the oil soot and residue off, degrease, then apply the powder. Have done many frames with this guy, all have turned out awesome. It's good to work with someone who knows old bikes and how to deal with years of oil and grease.

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

  Sounds like you have a more experienced powdercoater than I did when it comes to bike frames. He usually did castings for a local machine shop, said he had done bike frames but afterwards I had my doubts. Not the first time I wasted $100. It didn't help that it was the first time I had ever had a frame powdercoated either. Once it was all together you could not see the iffy spots, now 12 years have passed and it's still holding up. 

[Racepres]

I like Paint....

[Snuff™]

I like Paint....

In 1-1/2 years, that '77 will be 40 years old.  You may want to paint it incase you want to restore it back to (or near) original.

[JW113]

Well, too late! The powder coat guy called me a couple days ago, said it was ready to pick up. Man that was quick. I'm out in Chicago til mid next week, so will have to wait to go pick it up. True, paint is stock and powder is not, but the upside is that in 100 years when the next guy wants to restore it to stock, all the parts I had powder coated will still be like brand new!

OK so this is probably a bit selfish, but I don't plan to park this bike in a museum, and not building it to show. I want to ride it like any other motorcycle, and frankly powder holds up and paint don't. I'll let the next owner park it in a museum.  :-)

Switching gears, I have the fork lowers in getting the bushings changed, and after inspecting the fork tubes real close, I decide to replace them. They seem straight enough, but the finish is pretty bad in some places. Also a few long and deep scratches on one of them. So since I'm in Chicago, I called Forking by Frank yesterday, and am headed down there in a few minutes. Hope he'll give me the nickel tour of their operation.

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

Good luck! I think about that "full restoration" a couple times a year but then when I ride it I remember how much time and money I put into getting it like I like it.  As far as I am concerned next guy can take on the restoration, either I or my estate can sell him those parts too. 

[JW113]

Got some new fork tubes on order, $224 delivered, should ship in a week. This is about half what I saw on line at the various aftermarket suppliers, and maybe a third less than what HD wants. Frank's shop is, well.... definitely OLD SCHOOL. Not the tidiest place I've ever been in, maybe tied with the least tidy in fact. I tried not to focus on the building but the guys making the forks. Artisans is what I would have to say, true craft manufacturing. One guy has been making them for 35 years, and is super touchy about matching the lenghts in each pair. Can see they take a lot of pride in their work. I did not think it too cool to snap a pic inside the shop, but I did get one from the outside. You do have to hunt a bit to find the place, and especially to find the door!

By the way, Frank is long gone, like 40 years I learned. Bill is the man.

-JW

[rageglide]

Old school is cool!

[JW113]

Howdy dudes,

So back from Chicago (biz trip), and my frame and parts were ready to pick up from the powder coater. Everything looks great.

-JW

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[JW113]

I began the reassembly with the neck cups. I decided to reuse the stock cups, rather than the chrome plated aftermarket replacements. Main reason, all of those that I'm familiar with use Chinese bearing races. I'd just as soon stick with a matched set of Timken bearings and races. Besides, what is there to wear out with the bearing cups? I just love the trick of MIG welding a bead around the old bearing, turn over, and <ping>, old race just falls out on the floor.

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I used a wire brush and some Scotch-brite to clean up the cups, then painted them over with some clear enamel. I used my "universal bearing race press" to press in the new races. That's fancy talk for bearing drivers and some all-thread.

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Then used same set up to press the cups into the neck.

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I love powder coating, but one of the issues with it is they always get some of it where you do not want it. Any metal to metal contact you need to remove the powder coating. Unlike paint, it is thick, and it flows over time. So if you just leave it and assemble, things will constantly loosen up as the powder flows and compresses. Here on the lower fork clamp, they did a great job of masking the fork stem, but the area at the bottom where the bearing rests needs to be clear of the powder coating.

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I use Jasco paint stripper and an industrial "Q-tip" dab it on, then use X-acto blade to scrap the powder off and get to base metal.

So the neck cups are in, the lower clamp is prep'd, tomorrow I assemble the neck clamps (triple trees) to the frame and assemble the fork tubes. The tubes from Frank just showed up today! Still waiting on the sliders, that part will have to wait I guess.

-JW

[JW113]

Hey guys, a little update on my restoration project.

The bike is back on it's "feet", although still has a ways to go. I spent quite a bit of time on the wheels, what a bear they were to prep/mask/paint/polish, but in the end they look fantastic. So far here's what I have done:

Wheels: Paint and polish, new wheel bearings/seals. Could not get shovelhead spacers, so used Evo shims to set clearance to .004".
Tires: New Pirelli Night Dragons.
New brake disks and bolts.
Calipers: painted, new seals, new pins & bushings (in fork leg & boomerang), new pads, new anti-rattle springs.
Swing Arm: New bearings/seals/chain adjusters.
Forks: New stem bearings, new fork tubes, re-bushed & polished fork sliders, Progressive Suspension springs.

Looking good so far.

I dropped the sheet metal off at the painter, hope he's done by June. Next task is to rebuild motor and trans, and make a new wiring harness. I made a nice 11x17 color coded wiring diagram, will look for a place to upload it. Might be useful for somebody else.

-JW

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[72fl]

I'm interested in the Stepside 

[JW113]

What, that old thing?
:-)

1955 Chevrolet 1/2ton NAPCO 4x4. Had it since 1979.

-JW

[billbuilds]

     Looks/sounds good so I hate to nit-pick you however... not going with covered shocks? There are complete wiring harnesses for sale on eBay for reasonable money. Bill

[76shuvlinoff]

What, that old thing?
:-)

1955 Chevrolet 1/2ton NAPCO 4x4. Had it since 1979.

-JW

Nice!
One of these day I'd really love to have a 58 Apache, even if all I did was take the wife for ice cream on Sundays with it. 

Mark

[Mountainman streetbob]

What, that old thing?
:-)

1955 Chevrolet 1/2ton NAPCO 4x4. Had it since 1979.

-JW

WOW haven't seen a genuine Napco in years.NICE

[JW113]

     Looks/sounds good so I hate to nit-pick you however... not going with covered shocks? There are complete wiring harnesses for sale on eBay for reasonable money. Bill

Good call, and nit-pick away my good man! Thems the shocks that were on it when I bought it, and all they're doing right now is holding the frame off the tire. I am going to get a set of covered shocks at some point before it's done, already have the round covers for the top. For the wiring harness, I prefer to make my own. Besides enjoying doing that kind of thing, I also make improvements and such like better quality wire & connectors, add shrink-tube strain reliefs, heavier guage wire where it's needed, etc. Also plan to use a relay in the ignition circuit since I'm going to use a Crane Hi-4 single fire.

-JW

[JW113]

OK so today I took the transmission apart. All in all, it looks pretty good inside. But what I noticed on the outside made me a little suspicious. As in, RTV smeared all over in places like over the countershaft bushing and shifter guide rod. Clearly this thing was leaking and somebody tried to plug up the leak on the outside, which if you ask me, NEVER works. At least, not for long.

What I found was the left side (clutch side) countershaft bushing was very loose in the case, could almost push it out with my fingers. The main drive gear bushing also had a bit of brinnelling, so gonna have to replace it also. Other than that, not a whole lot that I could find to be concerned with. Will replace all the roller needles & maybe rebush the gears as well.

Question: I surfed a bit, did not find a lot of sources for oversize countershaft bearings. Any suggestions? Saw a place in Europe called Zodiac that has .005 oversize, but that sure does not seem like enough to me. Dunno.

-JW

[JW113]

A little more forward progress.

I took the motor apart to see what I had to work with. The good news is that it's in remarkably good shape! But there are a few little aches and pains from 40 years of service to repair.

Heads: Rear head cracked between port and header stud, which explains why there was no bolt holding the rear pipe on. Both exhaust valve seals were popped off the guides. Other than that, looked great, nice clean.

Cylinders: Very slight wear, minor vertical scratches probably from running a crappy air cleaner.

Pistons: Also in very good shape, stock HD cast, minor scratches, and only +.020 oversize. They measured +.004 cyl/piston clearance. Just a wee bit more than I'd like since it's torn down this far, but no where close to needing to bore up to +.030. So I've elected to send them out to Swain Tech and have the skirts coated. This should tighten them up a bit, and hopefully extend the service life:
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/piston-skirts/

Case & bottom end: Again looks to be in great shape. Rods feel tight on crankpin, very little end play that I could feel, didn't both with the micrometer. Going to have the shop pull the wheels apart, inspect, and reassemble. And do a balance. The case looked great, no damage in the breather valve hole.

Oil Pump: Very minor scratches, nothing to write home about. I had planned to get an S&S, but decided why bother. The stock pump looked great. I do plan to do something with all those "extra" holes in it, like chain oiler and primary feed/return. Don't need any of it, this is a belt primary bike.

Cam: After a quick clean up, looks brand spaning new. However, it's the stock "H" cam. Nothing wrong with that, as I ain't building a hot rod out of this bike. I think I will go ahead and run it, see how it works, and then maybe think about something else later. I like the idea of a Crane 288-2b, but feel the H cam deserves a chance first.

So the whole mess is down at that shop, hopefully in 3 weeks or so I'll get it back!

-JW

[Brrrap]

 

[billbuilds]

     Thanks for the Swain Tech link. Which coating are you planning on using on your piston skirts? Looks like the PC-9 will tighten up the piston/cylinder wall clearance but wondering what is the proper procedure to polish it uniformly to attain desired clearance?   Bill

[JW113]

Hey guys, just a check in/update, been a while. Progress has been slow but steady, which is always best with restoration projects.

I got the painted sheetmetal back and installed, looks pretty good. The new wiring harness is installed, all of the aluminum bits are polished, and brake system is in.

I had orderd a "cop" solo seat and had that on, but frankly I did not like how high on the bike it positions the rider. Like a BMW-GS! I was on tippy-toes holding it upright. Going to have to figure something else out for a seat. Maybe Corbin?

The motor and trans case have been at the machine shop for weeks now, lost track of how many. 6 or 7 anyway. But got a call from him early this week, he's now starting to work on them, and had forgotten what he was to do! The Swain Tech coated pistons looked great, I'm really hoping the just gives the jugs a touch up hone to break in the new rings, and not try to "size" them to the pistons. They are already sized, the dry film coating will burnish in with break in.

So lately it's been ordering tons of "little stuff" from all over the place to finish getting the final bits and pieces, and dozens of trips to the various parts stores round here for every little odd nut or bolt I don't have on hand. Hey, part of the fun, yes?

Cheers,
JW
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[76shuvlinoff]

Looks good but I have to say that Lepera seat you have on it is only good for about 50-80 miles with my boney ass.

[rageglide]

Oh the LeBoarda isn't that bad... ;-)  At least with this bike you won't need to worry about sliding off the back when you crack the wick.

John I bet the pogo will be just fine once you get the running gear back in the chassis.  Just like the Indian.

[JW113]

Yeah the LePera "Bare Bones" and "Hollywood" seats are pretty firm, but I've had one on my Road King for many years, even been to Sturgis and back. And had one on a Softail before that. I think my butt and LePera seats have developed a symbiotic relationship, like these guys:   

Well dunno there Bob, the Indian is 'more or less' a hard tail frame, and sits much lower to the ground. I'll give the cop seat a try, but am not holding my breath. The other thing is that skirt on it looks strange, I thought it was leather but is shiny black plastic. Like a Tesla "grille", and you know how I feel about those! No big deal or hurry on the seat, still have what's left of my life to find one that works.

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

I have bare bone gel Lepera I swap back and forth with this Mustang solo below. I recently went back to the Mustang and elevated the front of it an inch or so. Not the greatest looking like that but my tail bone thinks it's beautiful. I also moved it back an inch. I am only 5'8" so it works great, (the bike is also lowered at least an inch). Taller guys might pushed forward with the Mustang. I have never ridden with a pogo but I would imagine for a taller guy they'd be the cat's ass.

Your bike is coming along nicely. Good Luck!

Mark

[JW113]

Well it's been a while, but finally making some real progress on this FLH project. The machine shop had my engine for the entire summer, kept putting it on the back burner until he could "get to it". Yeah, I do understand he makes his bread and butter from doing routine service and bolting hot rod parts on Twin Cams which is both easy and lucritive, just wish he'd given me a better idea about how long this was going to take. As in 4 months! Anyway, water under the bridge, got it all back, sat the bottom end in the frame, and will be putting it together this weekend.

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After rounding up a new stator, I put the primary housing on Friday and bolted down the engine and transmission. Put the belt primary drive on yesterday and adjusted the clutch. I did some surfing through the archives to see what you guys recommend for setting the spring seat to pressure plate distance for those aluminum pressure plates. So, 3/4", right? I used a 1/2" bolt head to use as a gauge block at the three studs.

[attachimg=4]

Today am going to put the top end on the engine and hopefully get to the oil pump and valve train. As with probably most Shovelhead engine rebuilds, he found several problems once it was all apart. He did the following work:

Rebuilt flywheels
New Pinion shaft
New Crankpin
New bushings in top and bottom of connecting rods
New Timkens on sprocket shaft and rollers on pinion shaft
Balanced the rotating/reciprocating parts
Fixed a loose Timken bearing insert in the Left side case
Replaced the valves and guides, mine were the Manley "thin stem" type and he could not find valve seals for them
Welded and re-tapped both exhaust port bolts, both were cracked
Honed the cylinders to fit my ceramic coated pistons

[attachimg=5]


By the way, do you see those two round plastic things in front of the pistons? I found those is the box I had the primary cover and primary drive pulleys/belt/clutch. For the life of me, I don't remember taking these off the bike or if I did, what they are or where they go. Any ideas?

So if I can make some progress in the next two days, should have a it ready to fire up by next weekend. One fly in the ointment is that I am trying to put the stock electric starter back on it, a previous owner had fitted one of those "slam starter" manufal solenoids (little lever on side of primary) to it. I rounded up all the parts but did not realize I didn't have the Plunger, goes between solenoid and bendix arm. Got it on order, if not here by next week will put the slam starter on to fire it up, and then change it out later.

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

JW
I can't recommend Cometic coated steel base gaskets, and their MLS head gaskets and James coated steel rocker box gaskets enough. Yeah not all Cometic not all James, just a combination that worked for me once long ago so being a superstitious dipstick I stick with it.

Do the plastic rings fit on your intake to adapt O ring to band seals?

Good luck!

Mark

[72fl]

Solenoid or Gas Cap gasket maybe ?

[JW113]

Yep, Cometic gasket set, but not a mix with James. Good to know if the Cometic start to weep.

[attach=0]

Am totally stumped about these plastic rings. Definiately not part of the intake manifold. They are 2-7/16 dia, with a the hole 1-5/8, and they're 3/16 thick. Seems like maybe something to do with the shocks? I did buy a set of those Progressive shock covers, maybe they came with them, heck I have no idea. They have a number them, 5022-004. 

Got the cylinders on, now the heads. Maybe another beer first, it's like 88deg here today.

-JW

[JW113]

So a minor setback yesterday, but that's all part of the learning process right?

When I put the heads on, I only set the rocker boxes on then put the nuts on after the heads were tight. Mistake! I went to torque the rocker box nuts ('cept the ones I could not get a socket on, on the rear head). One the front head, I ran into two nuts that would not take torque. Just keep turning, and turning...., know that feeling all to well. Yep, they were pulling out of the head.

So note to self next time, "tighten the rocker box nuts BEFORE ya put the heads on"!!! So, pull head and fix pulled studs. Lucky I have some Timeserts and install kit on hand. Yep, deal with stuff like this all the time on these old bikes. The one little gotcha is that these studs are the "made special for aluminum" kind, the threads are wider and will not spin into a nut or a Timesert. So I had to use a 3/8-16 die and cut the threads down so they'd go into the inserts. Man did the tap get hot doing that! Even with cutting oil. And holding the stud was impossible with soft jaws in the vice, had to clamp them down hard with the bare jaws and leave little bite holes that at least I filed smooth. Shouldn't weaken them. I hope...

So two steps forward one step back, but slowly making progress. Really want to fire this machine up this weekend.

-JW

[Hogman]

Just a Simple little Tip that MIGHT Help you next time. I've had Very Good luck With Studs etc., Clamping them in between two Pieces of Hardwood from a Heavy Duty Pallet, and the Other, That I Still use at Times, Some Hi Quality Hardwood Flooring Pieces. The Pallet Wood is What I've used for the most part, for over 30 Years now. (Using Fresh Pieces When Required....... LOL)
Hope It can help You down the Road. They DO Take a Real Heavy Squeeze without any Damage to the Work Pieces.
HTH



ME

[rageglide]

Dang dude.  I didn't even notice you didn't have the nuts on when you were working on the oil pump.  Major bummer about the pulled studs.  Would have been nice to fix when it was getting a valve job and fixed exhaust threads...

[JW113]

Well since we're on the topic of having to do it twice to do it right....  (what's the saying, measure once, cut twice?)

Spent last night pulling the oil pump back off. Why? I went to put the pressure sender in, but alas... no hole! WTF?? After peering over assmebly drawings, I came to the brilliant conclusion that somebody forgot to put that little screw plug in the hole that's on the back side of the pump, and like a doof put it in the sender hole. Doh!!!


Can hardly wait to find out how many more little "whoops" encounters lie ahead when I finally get this beast fired up.

-JW

[rageglide]

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing twice I say... Or at least that's my new moto associated to the "new" project!

[JW113]

All together!! So now let the bug fixing start.

Got the last(*) bolt tightened on Sunday, filled it up with fluids, of which some of them started coming back out. Damn. First problem to fix was the petcock, it did not seal to the tank. I cut the gas line and drained the 1/2 gallon of gas out, and rummaged around and found another petcock, but alas no filter/stand pipe. No sweat, don't need a reserve just yet. Next I gave the starter lever a pull, the starter ran fine but the bendix did not engage to the clutch basket. Back apart came the stater lever thingy, and after some troubleshooting I found I had but the engagement fork in the bendix wrong. Doh! So with that fixed, tried again to start it.

Well, it did fire up, but sounded like crap and definitely running on only one cylinder. After some eyeballing, found the front plug was connected to the rear coil and vice versa. OK, switcheroo, and try it again. Yep, fired up, but still only on one cylinder. Some more troubleshooting, and came to the conclusion there is something wrong with the Crane Hi-4. Pretty sure the wire for the rear coil got broken right at the box, since they were so generous (NOT!) with room to get the wire through the nosecone hole and then get the box in the nosecone. I think there is like two pieces of paper width to squeeze the wiring through. I called Crane (as in S&S now), he gave some troubleshooting steps but that did nothing. Will call back and try to get an exchange.

So last night I pulled the Hi-4 and dual coil, but the stock coil and points in, pulled the starter and BOOM! Fired up instantly. Except.... it was running at 2000 or so RPM, so I shut it down. After some poking around, found that the home made throttle cable was the problem. I have a 40mm CV carb on it, and had to "custom" make a throttle cable for it, as the free length for a CV is 5.2 inches and the old style stock cable is only 4.3 inches. I had cut the cable end off, cut the jacket to the right length, then put one of those replacement cable ends on with a screw on the side of it. Well the screw head is not getting past the accelerator pump rod and holding the throttle open. Need to round up a 10-24 hex set screw, or maybe just file the head off the screw. When I get round to it, will call Barnett and have them make me a couple custom throttle cables.

Another problem is the exhaust pipes. Bought a set of Cycle Shack PHD-119 so I could add a kicker. In taking the front pipe out of the plastic tube it came in, felt something "crunchy", looked at my hand to see a bunch of shiny silver crumbs. Hmm. In just wiping my hand on the pipe I could pull of piles of the chrome. Yikes! Also, I tried the kicker, but it hits the front muffler. I called Cycle Shack, they said whoops! No problem, will replace. Since they are just up the road in South San Francisco, I'll drive up there on Friday and get a replacement.

Oh, and what did I find on the floor after the first night I put trans fluid in it? Yep. Trans fluid. Coming out the mainshaft some place. And I even used one of those special mainshaft bushings with the little O-ring in it. So will have to deal with that now also.

But hey, it's getting real close. And it sure looks purdy.

(*) there is NEVER a last bolt to tighten on a Shovelhead

-JW

[rageglide]

Bike looks great!

Don't forget the kicker doesn't clear much of anything exhaust related...   You need drags!

[JW113]

It might come to that, but I was making a half-hearted attempt to dial back a little on being the neighborhood A-hole. However from first impression, these 'Shack pipes are not what I would call "quiet"....



-JW

[rageglide]

No doubt about that, they were surprisingly loud.

[76shuvlinoff]

(*) there is NEVER a last bolt to tighten on a Shovelhead

Not if you ride it. 

She looks real good. Are there kick arms out there with a bit more offset?

I don't mean to bitch but when are you bringing my truck home?

[Old Crow]

Going to ride it to Jackson in a couple of weeks?  Looks like I'll be bringing a pair of Evo's and leaving the Shovel home(need one we can ride double on).

[JW113]

That was my goal, but so was getting it fired up on Labor Day weekend. Am way behind now, have a laundry list of problems to fix, and no break in miles yet. Don't feel it wise to take it on a maiden voyage this soon now until I'm sure it's somewhat shook out. So, will be on the Road King or Indian.

Oh and Mark, the part of the kicker that is hitting the muffler is the "knuckle" where the pivot is, not the arm itself. After talking with Buzz at Cycle Shack, I think the problem is the bracket is holding the muffler out too far. He said it was common to have to "fit" the whole system in by bending the bracket, and rotating the pipes, until everything clears. Will go pick up a replacement tomorrow and see what I can do with it. By the way, I'm almost done with the truck, you can have it back in about 25 years.


See ya!
JW

[Old Crow]

That was my goal, but so was getting it fired up on Labor Day weekend. Am way behind now, have a laundry list of problems to fix, and no break in miles yet. Don't feel it wise to take it on a maiden voyage this soon now until I'm sure it's somewhat shook out. So, will be on the Road King or Indian.

Yeah, I was wanting to bring my shovel, but at one point in the trip I want to provide a bike for a buddy that wrecked his last month so we can go for a ride.  We'll let him ride my wife's Superglide and we will ride 2up on my Evo FLT. 
My shovel FLT has a cop air ride solo on it, and I missed out on the only matching Mustang pillion pad for that cop seat that I've ever seen on Ebay just last weekend.

[JW113]

I went up to Cycle Shack yesterday and they gave me a new front pipe, the one that the chrome was falling off. In talking with Buzz the owner, he felt the issue with the kicker hitting the front muffler was probably due to the bracket, and I should try a little tweaking on it. So after mounting the pipe with the bracket removed, I could easily position the pipe to clear everything, especially the kicker arm. I eyeballed the bracket a bit, it had a couple of slight jogs in it that positioned the pipe out about 1" or so from where it wanted to be. There was no "tweaking" that bracket, I had to take the blue tipped wrench to it and get red hot at the bend points, basically took all of the jogs out and make it perfectly straight. Refitted to the bike, now only needs a couple washers between the pipe and the bracket mount hole for a perfect fit. Going to do the same with the rear pipe and bracket since I'm in the mood.

It continues to drip a 2" or so pool of trans oil per day which is driving me nuts. Was going to take it for a spin to see maybe "seating" the seals would help, but frankly don't have much hope for that. Besides while it's all fresh and clean and unridden, will be way easier to pin point where the oil's coming out. So going to pull the primary and trans sprocket off today. Oh boy, haven't even ridden it and it's going back under the wrench.

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

Not that this applies to the current thread in any way whatsoever but I think it had to be a shovel guy that first said justridedabitch! 

[billbuilds]

      There's a guy on eBay selling tranny sprocket spacers with an o-ring groove machined in. Did you use RTV silicon on the sprocket/mainshaft splines? Did you install your L-key as well? The bike looks great, I dig the truck too. Bill

[JW113]

OK, well the sad news is I now have a four speed transmission sitting on the bench, and worse, feel like a moron.



After pulling the inner primary, pretty obvious where the trans leak is coming from. The mainshaft is loose as a goose inside the output gear. DOH!!!! Why did I not double check that when the damn trans was apart??? Like I always say, anything worth doing once is worth doing thrice. So what does the flywheels and the output gear have in common? They are both the hardest to get at parts in the whole bike! Today I'll pop the trans apart, and then figure out where to round up a new bushing. I like the way that guy Ray "Saddlebagrail" makes his own, but unfortunately I don't have access to a machine shop. I also like the Andrews output gear with built in O-ring for the spacer, but I don't know if I can use that on the early '77 trans, need to check that out.

By the way Bill, I do have one of Ray's O-ring spacers, and instead of silicone RTV (which I hate) I used Hylomar on the splines. And Mark, I could just ride it but I'm the kind of dude that can't go 98% there and ignore that last 2%. All or nothing, black or white. Know what I mean?

Oh well, what the hell. Looks like it will be a few more weeks before the maiden voyage on the Electra Glide!

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

JW
Sorry about the disappointment.

On the positive side, while that 4 speed overhaul is still fresh in your mind I have one on a basement shelf that needs the same love. 

[JW113]

Sure Mark, throw it in the mail and I might get around to it someday.
:-)

Well there's no doubt now, the main drive gear bushing is shot! I measured 0.9978 on the mainshaft, and 1.005x in the bushing. At least 7 thou of clearance? Yep, I'd say that's pretty wore out. The mainshaft also had a detectable worn feel in the bushing area. So rather than just push in a new bushing in the gear, I ordered up a new Andrews main drive gear (with bushing installed) and a Andrews mainshaft. In for a penny, in for a pound. I had already installed new left side mainshaft and countershaft bushings already. Now wait for the FedEx guy...

-JW

[attach=0]

[JW113]

Done! Well, at least it's back on the road sort of. I fired it up yesterday and took for a spin around the block a few times for a quick shakedown. It didn't take long to figure out I have a real issue with the brakes, especially the back one. It's making a horrendous squeal/howelling noise, but quiets down with just a slight pressure on the brake pedal. Also, neither front nor back work worth a damn. The disks and pads are brand new, so I didn't expect them to work so great until they bed in a bit. I did about 10 hard stops, the front got a little better but the rear did not. So now I'm looking at adding a twin cam rear brake, need to think about how to anchor it.

The motor sounded great, and fired up instantly. Need to do a little tuning like set the timing with a light, and maybe up the intermediate jet, it seemed a little flat at steady speed, but might just be the timing.

The trans seemed a bit noisy, quite a bit of whine in 2nd and 3rd, not much in 1st. Have not had it up to speed enough to try 4th. Maybe this is normal and I am just not used to it.

The good news is no oil leaks! At least not yet. Replacing the mainshaft and main drive gear took care of the gusher from the trans. Although that is a bit of a tale in of itself. I put trans all together, and went to put the trans sprocket on, and it would lock up the trans with just the slightest torque on the nut. After thinking on it, came to the conclusion that with the new mainshaft and drive gear, the original thrust washer I had put in was too thick. So back apart the whole thing came to get at the thrust washer. What I found was pretty stupid actually. Although I could not see it, Andrews had included a new thrust washer with the main drive gear! So I had doubled up on thrust washers! 

They both measured the same, .060, so I removed one and put the main drive gear back, this time putting the trans sprocket on and checking the end play. Perfect!

So now the project continues with getting the brakes to work. Don't know how much effort to put into curing the rear caliper problems, or just go straight to a new set up.

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

Good to read it's coming along.

I have read that the squealing is hi frequency vibration between the the pad and the piston and to try sanding a bevel on the leading edge (which would be the rear ends) of the pad material itself. If the calipers are riding on worn out pins and bushings it adds to the problem.

I think auto parts stores have something to put on the back of the pads to combat squealing. I've put a layer of Gorilla tape on the backs of some on my bikes and it worked but it doesn't last forever.

Good luck!
Mark

[JW113]

Well... struggling though ignition gremlins now. I had originally put a Crane Hi-4 and single fire coil on it. It was only running on the rear cylinder. Yes, did the check to make sure it was not the coil or plug wire. Called Crane (aka S&S), they sent me a new Hi-4 module. In the mean time, I had put the stock coil and points back on, and it fired right up and ran well. Earlier this week I went to time it with a timing light, had it spun up to 2000 or so and POP-POP-POP-POP-POP... and it died. Tried to restart, but no go. Checked the gas, it was low. Got another gallon of gas but no go. It would make some popping noises, but not start.

I pulled the nosecone apart today and found that one of the advance unit springs had broken, gotten lodged and broke the roll pin that indexes the advance unit. So the timing was WAY off. OK, not problem, I have the new S&S Hi-4 module sitting here. Put it and the single fire coil pack on. Only to find, STILL running on only the rear cylinder! WTF??? I did the usual triage by swapping wires around, follows the module. But some experiments with using "dual fire" mode proved that the front module circuit is working. I'm stumped. Gonna fit it with another mechanical advance unit from Roadrage tomorrow and go back to points.

Getting tired of this bologna!!!

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

Not familiar with the HI 4 but I was considering one for the kick start mode. I am going to jinx myself here and state I've never had any issues with the Dyna 2000i I installed in 2003. I run it dual plugged single fire.

Hell I'm too old for kicking anyhow 

If you're going to use mechanical weights anyhow get a good set then I think the (Dyna S ?) might be a good option. At least you get rid of the points and condenser.

Mark

[rageglide]

I have hi-4 on my shovel and it definitely wasn't the easiest to kick over.  JWs one cylinder issue is bizarre, he's tried two ignitions and same issue. 

JW, I'll drop by with the advance unit shortly. 

[JW113]

Well what a day. I pulled the defective Crane Hi-4 out and put points back in. Used the same single fire coil but wired in series. Hit the starter and it fired to life! WTH, two Crane Hi-4s in a row that won't fire on the front cylinder??? Certainly will call S&S on Monday and raise hell.

Bob dropped off his mechanical advance, I installed and all was great. I even used the single fire coils, wired in series, and it fired right up. After a feeble attempt to try and time it with dial back timing light, I convinced myself it was close enough and took it for a break in ride. Down to the gas station, no problem. Filled up with gas, and then took it out on the freeway to get it up to speed. No problem! It ran strong and begged for throttle, which I had a hard time resisting. I did a short run then headed back home. Swang by Roadrage Bob's place, and let it cool down. Other than finding the petcock is leaking, it did great, motor ran strong and trans quieted down a lot.  I rode it around the block to home and drained the tank. Need to get a quality petcock, evidently Drag Specialties is crap. Pingel or Harley OEM, I need to find tomorrow. We all know aftermarket parts are CRAP, and when will I learn this? V-TWIN, DRAG, CUSTOM CHROME = CRAP. When will I finally accept that?? 

OK, project gremlins to work out. Probably for eternity. No worries, throw it at me I'll take it on the chin. Will say, nothing like the sound of a Shovelhead idling at 500 rpm.

Onwards and upwards,

JW

[rageglide]

Sounded sweet as you pulled away. 

When you pulled up it sounded a little frantic (for lack of a better word).  Maybe just a fast idle combined with the cycle shack baffles.

Something seriously screwed up with these "Crane" ignitions... S&S screwed em up.

[76shuvlinoff]

Glad to hear it rolls. I spent the day cleaning my barn to make room for the bikes. I want to put shovelish on the table for a little tinkering sometime this winter but I could not resist a blast. Due to life it was the first time I've had her out in almost 2 months and it was the best ten miles I've had in a long time. 

Mark

[JW113]

>When you pulled up it sounded a little frantic

Was probably me feathering the throttle. It's geard REAL tall, so doing that U-turn in front of your house takes a delicate balance of throttle and clutch. Not to mention, I ain't used to a bike that will idle this low, gotta love low compression and heavy flywheels.

Off to get a new petcock and do some more break in miles.

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

JW I am not sure if you were serious about 500 rpm but I would set it closer to 800-1000. I'm not sure how much oil you are moving at 500. You could always pull the cap off the tank and see what's coming back.

Mark

[Hogman]

JW, I HAVE to Agree With Mark here. OIL is Very Important. I Know Myself, I've Seen a Few Screwed up Engines in my Day, Simply from Too Low of an Idle, and Not Quite Enough Oil Circulating. The WORST, was a dude That TRIED to make his Twinky Sound Like an Old Shovel. Didn't Matter How Many Times I Told him, Even Offered to do it for him, Nope, I Like the way I Sounds, Yada Yada Yada, well, he ALMOST made a Whole Summer before he had Issues, SERIOUS Issues, but All he did was go from Coffee Shop to Coffee Shop and do the Cruise Nights, Letting it Sit & Idle for EXTENDED Periods THINKING he Was Showing off on how "Cool" HE thought it Sounded. Matter of fact, he USED to Brag about it being able to Sit there & Idle All day Like that & Not Stall! He was QUITE an Idiot though........ Didn't even phase him about having to put a New Mill in!
JUST Trying to Help my Friend, Knowing You have SO Much Time, Effort, & $$$ in This beast, It would be a Shame to see that get Flushed down the Drain. Even 800 RPM would Help (Normally) Keep Things Going.





ME

[JW113]

So indeed I have no idea what the idle speed is, but it does sound pretty low. The oil light is not on, so there is pressure. I'm sure it would not hurt it to dial the idle up a little, but in fact I have not been idling it hardly at all. I put about 20 miles on it today on the freeway, just cruising nice and easy to get some miles on it. I like to break this in by short "heat cycles", enough to warm it up but not enough to get it really hot.

That said, I have the next gremlin to flush out. I pulled back in the garage from the said run above, and it left a pretty decent pool of oil, dripping out the primary. Not primary oil, since it has a belt drive, and there is no primary case oil plug which is where the oil was coming from. Motor oil, so of course it looks like the sprocket shaft oil seal is not holding. Oh joy, looks like I get to pull the inner primary yet again to fix that. But it did run great!

I do need to get the feel for the FLH four speed. BIG jump between 1 & 2, 2 to 3 is a bit of a jump too. 3 to 4 is perfect. Need to get into the practice of winding it up a bit higher before shifting. I can see why the FX ratios are more desirable, probably more like a ironhead four speed which I like a lot.

Also need to round up a speedo drive converter. If I have the ratios figured out, the speedo reads about 16% too slow, so 50 indicated is right about 60mph.

Ah, old bikes. They ain't for sissies that's for sure!

-JW

[JW113]

OK so the primary drive is now laying the outer cover. Have to ask, even though I think I know the answer.

Is there a trick to pulling the inner primary off without having to pull the battery tray and oil tank? i.e., how get the starter loose from the inner primary without pulling that other stuff?

thanks,
JW

[Hogman]

OK so the primary drive is now laying the outer cover. Have to ask, even though I think I know the answer.

Is there a trick to pulling the inner primary off without having to pull the battery tray and oil tank? i.e., how get the starter loose from the inner primary without pulling that other stuff?

thanks,
JW

I KNOW you Know the Answer. I Just Tried on my 84 FLH, Wasted a Couple of Hours TRYING, BUTT, In The End, YOU Know...... 
Good Luck, Like I say, I Just Tried this, AGAIN, Because it's My Own, and had Been a Bunch of years, I Thought I'd Revisit that World of Disgust, Frustration, & Why & the Hell Did I Even TRY that when I KNOW Better!!!!!!!!!!
Did You Find out what THE Leak is yet?



ME

[76shuvlinoff]

I could usually pull my prestolite starter with a long extension from the right side but I believe the battery tray has to come out and you can wiggle it around the somewhat loosened oil tank. 

[JW113]

Yeah I guess I shouldn't complain about the battery tray, that isn't so bad. It's the oil tank. It's easier to work with the starter with the oil tank out, but sure hate to drain it and deal with the mess. OR leave it in and remove the rubber mounts which I did to pull the transmission, but the tab on the tank scratched the crap out of the fender. Fortunately where it doesn't show too much.

Aye yie yie, in for a penny, in for a pound....

The leak is coming from the sprocket shaft seal. I'm now getting concerned that the crankcase is not venting correctly, backpressured and pushed the seal out of the case. I had a Evo do that before. I have one of them Hayden Krank Vents hung on the breather hose. 200% sure it's installed the right direction, but you never know, will check that tonight.

-JW

[billbuilds]

     To pull the starter (with drive housing attached) I find it easiest to remove the battery tray but you really don't need to remove the oil tank. Once you have both of the starter drive mount bolts removed you should be able to pull the starter/starter drive toward the oil tank until the locating pins are clear. I lay a rag at the rear of the tranny and lay the starter on it. Lift the starter at the end nearest you so that the drive end drops down a bit and then the assembly should clear the tank and you can pull it out the rest of the way. HTH, Bill

[Hogman]

JW,I Apologise, Didn't see where You had said REMOVE oil Bag until Just Now.
No, I Don't either, Just undo the Rubber mount stuff & Carefully Lift it out of the way enough to get the Starter and Housing crap out. Sorry man, didn't see "Remove".......   




ME

[76shuvlinoff]

As a side note,
Every time I have removed the oil tank I have forgotten how I removed the oil tank the last time.    It's just about as bad as snaking the rear pipe of a set of true duals through there without scratching it.

[JW113]

Well it all makes sense now. I got the inner primary and rotor off, the seal "looked" fine and in fact probably is (was). Like a fool I removed it anyway. I removed the stator to see if the oil was coming from it's bolts, but doubt that was the case. Then it hit me. Those two holes used to hold the stator wire clamp.... Oh, and I forgot to put that clamp on the wires cause I couldn't find it... suppose those holes go through into the flywheels?

Answer: YES THEY DO!!!



So off to the shop for a new sprocket shaft seal, and maybe a spacer too. And maybe a good opportunity to put some hylomar on the inside surfaces of the spacer, just in case.

I'm finding some interesting discussions about which way the sprocket shaft seal goes on open/belt primary set ups. Seems like spring on the inside toward the flywheel makes sense, but a lot of others out there say just the opposite. Then another guys says either way, makes no difference.

Comments?

By the way, I managed to get the inner primary off without unbolting the oil tank. Whether I can put it back together without remains to be seen. After pulling the battery box, I used some wood wedges in between the starter and trans case to hold it, then unbolted the starter from the primary. It came off easy enough, but with the bendix drive hanging from the shift fork. Trick will be getting the bendix drive back into the starter gear and not loose that thrust washer behind the gear...

Lastly, for the life of me I can't seem to get those primary housing studs on the trans to stay in. Last time used lots of red loctite, and then last night same thing, loosen the nuts and the studs come right out. Maybe try the 601 press fit green loctite? Or JB Weld?

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

Did you prep the holes for the studs with a Loctite primer or maybe Brake Kleen and get em good and dry? I would think red would hold em if all surfaces are clean. Maybe run a bottoming tap down them to get anything else out.

[Hogman]

Well it all makes sense now. I got the inner primary and rotor off, the seal "looked" fine and in fact probably is (was). Like a fool I removed it anyway. I removed the stator to see if the oil was coming from it's bolts, but doubt that was the case. Then it hit me. Those two holes used to hold the stator wire clamp.... Oh, and I forgot to put that clamp on the wires cause I couldn't find it... suppose those holes go through into the flywheels?

Answer: YES THEY DO!!! WOW, Learned Something Today, So It Wasn't a Waste Of a Day Afterall!!!! I Had NO Idea they Ran right thru! I'd Check Mine, But I JUST Ran the Screw & Holder in Earlier this Morning. A DAB of Blue on 'em too, Just Because.....



So off to the shop for a new sprocket shaft seal, and maybe a spacer too. And maybe a good opportunity to put some hylomar on the inside surfaces of the spacer, just in case.
What's Wrong with the Present Spacer?
I've Never used Hylomar on those before, do You think it Really NEEDS it, or???

I'm finding some interesting discussions about which way the sprocket shaft seal goes on open/belt primary set ups. Seems like spring on the inside toward the flywheel makes sense, but a lot of others out there say just the opposite. Then another guys says either way, makes no difference.

Comments?
ALMOST any Spring Lip Seal I've come across, has the Lip Facing the Substance You're Trying to Keep IN its Place. Of Course there's SOME exceptions to the Rule. Your Way Sounds like The way *I* Would Put it in..... Then Again, WTF do I know.....

By the way, I managed to get the inner primary off without unbolting the oil tank. (COOL!!!) Whether I can put it back together without remains to be seen. (SURRRRE Ya Can Brother, No Problem!  ) After pulling the battery box, I used some wood wedges in between the starter and trans case to hold it, then unbolted the starter from the primary. (I Normally use Black Tie Straps to make a Hanger type of set up.....) It came off easy enough, but with the bendix drive hanging from the shift fork. Trick will be getting the bendix drive back into the starter gear and not loose that thrust washer behind the gear... Ohhhh, You have THAT Style..... Yuk! Just another Brain Stress test, That's All. I HAVE done it, But BOY, does it Press My Cool......    LOLOL

Lastly, for the life of me I can't seem to get those primary housing studs on the trans to stay in. Last time used lots of red loctite, and then last night same thing, loosen the nuts and the studs come right out. Maybe try the 601 press fit green loctite? Or JB Weld?
The ONLY Times I've Removed or Installed them for Whatever Reason, I Run a Thread CHASER through the Holes to Clean 'em up, Clean out Any Residual Crap with Brake Cleaner, & Installed them With RED Loctite. (Gonna Jinx myself here) I've NEVER had to RE-Do ANY of them.....
Good Luck my Friend. I Know we (all of us Following this Thread) Have Faith in You!

-JW

[JW113]

Mark and Hogman, I did exactly as you said. Ran a thread CHASER in all the holes, then flooded them with Brake Kleener and blew out with air. Wire brushed and Brake Kleen the threads on the studs, and used RED loctite. And yet again, they came out!

What I did not mention but maybe I should, is that I used BLUE loctite on the nuts. Why? Dunno, just like the stuff. I figured during the tug of war between the RED and BLUE, the Red would win. Guess not in this case though. It does worry me a little about those studs coming out too many times, at what point will the threads in the trans case get trashed?

Also wondering, since "I'm in there", install Time-Serts into all the stud holes? Probably overkill....

The sprocket shaft spacer.... why replace? It's got some minor wear where the seal rubs. Probably nothing to fret, but since it's right there, and cheap to replace, why not? If I can't find one local this week, will polish up and re-use this one.

Thanks for the support, one of these days here soon I sure hope to have it running for longer than 15 minutes!!!

-JW

[rageglide]

Maybe the threads are already worn enough on the trans that the red loctite isn't able to get a good bite? 

Can you use folding tab lock "washers" or safety wire?  I cant' remember what I have on my shovel, haven't been in there in oh... 8 or 9 yrs... 

[JW113]

I think the red loctite is holding OK. I do have to put a bit of arm on the wrench to get the nuts/studs off. It's just that the nuts are stuck to the studs. Perhaps I should forget the blue loctite on the nuts and just trust the lock washers? Interesting that HD didn't on EVOs and later, they all have bent tab lock washers. Shovel has just a "spring" lock washer.

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

It has been over 12 years since I tightened the nuts on the trans studs but I recall using blue AND spring lockwashers too.
My studs will probably pull if I have to pull the trans for the sticky shifter issue. I know the inside primary to motor bolts are socket head cap screws with blue, spring lockwashers and safety wire.  I am a chicken.

[Hogman]

I think the red loctite is holding OK. I do have to put a bit of arm on the wrench to get the nuts/studs off. It's just that the nuts are stuck to the studs. Perhaps I should forget the blue loctite on the nuts and just trust the lock washers? Interesting that HD didn't on EVOs and later, they all have bent tab lock washers. Shovel has just a "spring" lock washer.

-JW

I Just did Mine, and They're only what, 18-22 Lbs.? Not 100% Sure, but in that neighbourhood. Never have used Blue on Any of those. I Myself, Use the Locknuts with the Plastic type of Locking Stuff in the Nuts. (There's also a Totally Metal version with what LOOKS like a Crimp almost. Used them on a Few Things, Even on my Exhaust Studs. NO Issues with those either......) I Had to Remove the inner myself late yesterday too, because my Used Replacement Stator I installed this time, has a Thicker Winding than what I Normally use. Now Today, I'll see what I can do about that, Rectify it, (Hopefully! LOL) and go from there. Pouring down Rain almost all night, STILL Raining pretty darn good, so no Big Rush to get out there This morning. Time for Another Coffee I believe!  LOLOL

I Think I'd Also give it a Little Check to see IF maybe ANY of the Threads are Worn or Damaged. MIGHT be Your Issue...??... IF you do have to Repair the Threads in the Case itself, where the Studs Screw in to, I have to Agree 100% on those Time-Serts. Been Using them on & off for a few years now, and LOVE 'em! Did a Shovel Sp. Plug hole a few months ago, and the Dude is Enjoying Beating the Devil out of it! LOL NEVER had ANY Issues with them. NO Comparison to the old Heli-Coil Stuff. It has its usage, But When I can do the Repair ONE time, and NEVER have to Worry about it again, I'm ALL for it!
Good Luck my Friend. Keep us all Posted eh....... 




ME

[Old Crow]

I love Time Serts.  However, I start with helicoils rather than going straight to Time Serts.  IF the helicoil fails, there'll still be enough meat left to install Time Serts,

[JamLazyAss]

I love Time Serts.  However, I start with helicoils rather than going straight to Time Serts.  IF the helicoil fails, there'll still be enough meat left to install Time Serts,

Helicoils are your friend.
When installed correctly, I believe it to be better than oem.

Never heard the term Time Sert. What are they?

[76shuvlinoff]

Jam, it's a much more robust insert than a helicoil.

http://www.timesert.com/

[smokedyvr]

  Enjoying this thread!

[JW113]

OK, all back together tonight. Roadrage stopped by, helped him deal with a slight oil leak with his twin cam. Which, by the way, he just built into a 120 cube monster and now is starting the break in process. Looks like we'll be doing this side by side, old tech and new tech but still the same old break in procedure.

Can't wait to to take it for some more thermal cycle runs in tomorrow. I know S&S is very conservative about breaking in a fresh engine. Frankly, I'm not. I'm of the school of doing a bunch of thermal cycles, i.e. run for 15 to 25 miles to get it warmed up, then let it cool down. After 100 or so miles of that, ride it like it's going to be ridden, except don't be pulling wide open throttle blasts until it's got 1000 or so miles. And don't lug it! Like you ever should do that anyway. Nix nix. Quickest way to kill any motor.

Hasta manana,

JW

[76shuvlinoff]

 I am not real patient with a fresh set of rings. I try, I really do but after 50 miles and an oil change I kinda figure it is what it is. I do re-torque head and base bolts a few times out to 1000 miles. 

  I've read arguments supporting slow and easy or fast and hard like you stole it.

   Mark

[JW113]

Yeah I'm about the same way Mark. I get to thinking too hard about what's to wear out. The bottom end is totally roller bearing, nothing to wear there. The cam (except for the nose cone bushing) is roller, as are the tappets. In fact I reused the tappets, already worn in. I also reused the pistons, but had them coated with that ceramic anti-wear coating, and fitted kinda loose in the cylinders. So what's to wear there? Really the only thing that is going see serious metal to metal is the rings. And don't you WANT the rings to wear in quickly?

In high school I took auto shop for two years. Which is sort of like free car service for the town mucky-mucks. The shop teacher's method of doing break in after an engine rebuild was to fire it up, get the timing and carb dialed quickly, then take it over to the highway and do full throttle runs from about 25 to 75mph and coast it back down, and do 10 of these in a row. After that, broke in. Not sure I agree 100% with that method, but you know what? Never had a problem later with any of the cars we rebuilt and ran in that way.

So yeah, baby 'em for 50 miles, then give 'em hell!!!


-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

 JW
I can't remember where I read it and I've changed laptops since so I don't have it saved anymore but I do remember reading about the same procedure your shop teacher used, Get it warm then wind it up in 2nd or 3rd and let the engine braking bring it back. Supposedly this really forces the rings against the walls. Do this several times, change oil and and you're good to ride normally.

I dunno, on the other hand S&S advocates going slow and easy and they didn't fall off the turnip truck yesterday.

9mm or .45? 

Mark

[JW113]

S&W 500



OK, did a few more "laps" today, got about 53 miles now. Was a little warmer today than I like to break in a new motor, but not screaming hot. The first 20 miles on it, it seemed kind of 'flat'. I checked the points, they were a bit off so opened back up to 18 thou. I also advanced the timing a wee bit, but it's now close to the end of the advance limit. I HAVE to get a new timing light and time the thing, I could not see the advance mark with the light I have so it was only static timed and now a little bit of guessing.

My loop is about 6 miles of freeway and 2 miles of city street. It works out perfect because it's all right turns at the few traffic lights so don't have to stop and idle it. I did some more hard brake stops to try and wear in the pads. I can actually get the rear to lock up now, and the front is working mucho better. Have to say I'm not all that unhappy with the stock bananas, they haul the bike down in a reasonable manner, albeit a LOT of lever/pedal pressure. I am getting a juddering in the front with hard front brake, think I need to check the neck bearing preload.

One thing that I'm really happy with is how smooth the motor runs, especially about 2000 rpm. I bliped it up to 70mph for a very short bit, and I kid you not, it felt as smooth at that speed as my rubber mount Road King.

Being a Shovelhead newbie, I'm not sure what is considered normal for transmission noise. It whines a bit in 2nd, and even more in 3rd, but quiet as a churchmouse in 1st and 4th. What you think, that sound about right to you guys?

Figure I'll put another 50 miles on it tomorrow, drop the oil and tighten the heads/jugs, and then start riding it as it's gonna be ridden. Could not help but notice after the break in jaunts, and parking in the garage, narry a drop of oil anywhere. Yay!

It's been a long process, but have to say I am one very happy dude today!

cheers,
JW

[Tynker]

Yep, Cometic gasket set, but not a mix with James. Good to know if the Cometic start to weep.

[attach=0]

Am totally stumped about these plastic rings. Definiately not part of the intake manifold. They are 2-7/16 dia, with a the hole 1-5/8, and they're 3/16 thick. Seems like maybe something to do with the shocks? I did buy a set of those Progressive shock covers, maybe they came with them, heck I have no idea. They have a number them, 5022-004. 

Got the cylinders on, now the heads. Maybe another beer first, it's like 88deg here today.

-JW

Didn't those rubber O rings go under the tin cans on the forks, to stop rattles ?

[JW113]

Well, they're not rubber, they're hard plastic. And no mention of such item in the parts book. My suspicion is they had something to do with the rear Progressive shocks. I've given up on it, no idea where they came from.

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

 

Being a Shovelhead newbie, I'm not sure what is considered normal for transmission noise. It whines a bit in 2nd, and even more in 3rd, but quiet as a churchmouse in 1st and 4th. What you think, that sound about right to you guys?

As far as your trans noise goes my memory fails me. I have not had the factory 4 speed in the bike since 2002. It crapped the bed on me coming back from Kentucky, it was grinding and losing oil at a scary rate. I got home by filling it with STP then topping it off with gear oil every gas stop.  All these years I've been afraid to open it up  I parked it on the shelf because I had had already rounded up a 5/4 for it before the trip and I just never got back to it.

[Brrrap]

Enjoying this thread!

Yep, Me too!

[JW113]

Alrighty, a tick over 100 miles and it's running great. Maybe too advanced now, damn need to time it with a light. I dumped the oil and filled back up with 50wt. Will retorque the heads/cyls when it cools down. Then go put the spurs to it right?


It tended to just slightly lean to the right if I let up on the bars, so need to make a little adjustment to the axle.

That Le Pera seat, oh my god. Gotta go. I have a Le Pera on my Road King, but this one on the Shovel is vinyl covered maple. At least they could have used pine or cedar!! My ass was so sore from the 60 mile ride I did today I almost fell over getting off the bike. I'm leaning toward one of those Mustang 12" studded solo seats. I really liked the stock seat on my Evo Heritage Softail, most comfy seat I ever owned. The Mustang sorta looks like that, hope it feels the same.

The only bummer is now that it's on the road, I head off to Malaysia & China tomorrow for two weeks. Will be thinking the whole time about that cobalt blue Electra Glide just waiting for me back home in the garage.

Well my friends, the RESTORATION is over!!! Time to move into the next phase: Ride It-Maintain It-Love It. It's been a great journey so far, I've learned a ton, swore quite a bit, and gotten some great practice at redoing stuff I screwed up the first (or second) time. But especially thanks everybody for keeping me from crossing over the yellow lines.

Multo grazie to all'a y'alls!!!

-JW

[rageglide]

The one set of S&S pistons I ran in my shovelhead - and broke in as close to what they said I should do... burned up riding in a head wind.   

I run the bike easy-ish for first 50 miles then I ride it like normal for a few hundred miles always avoiding Load..  I think that is key.  Load builds heat.   I'll grab 50% throttle on a slight downhill. 

So far I've already hit 3500 rpm with only 5 miles on the engine.  But no load to speak of (map was 49kpa and idle is 40).   LOL whats map sez you shovelheads... 

JWs bike sounds freakin fantastic.  Coming together really nicely.

Oh, my wideglide has a whine in 2nd and 3rd.  So I'd say no worries.

[rageglide]

Bud, I think you need a pogo Solo seat... Go FLH all the way.  why not?  Either that put a few hundred more on the LeBoarda and you'll be good.  You'll conform eventually.  :-)  You ain't that old...

If you want me to ride you scooter around lemme know.  Better you and than me heading to the orient... Although a neat authentic tat would be cool... I'm sure you already have something planned there.
bob

[76shuvlinoff]

 Safe travels to you JW.

As far as timing goes I advance it till I get ping and back it off till I don't. Seems to work.
Every few years I take the Butt Buster Lepera off and dig this Mustang wide solo out of the stash. I put the Big Bertha Bags back on to go all wide style. I'd like to try a solo pogo but my inseam says no. This year I propped the front of it up an inch and it's even more comfortable. My ass is a believer in function over form! 

[JW113]

Well I could try putting that pogo seat back on, but man it sat a mile too high for my short legs. I'd have to see about hacking the spring pack to drop it an inch or three, but then I think it would be bottoming out so where's that get you? And that cheezy shiny plastic skirt has to go.  What the hell might as well give it a shot, although I sure would like to have a nice new seat waiting in the garage to plop on it when I get back from Asia.

Mark, which Mustang you have, the 12" or 16"? Comfort-wise, you like it?

And Bob, hell yeah, take it out. Just keep it under 90, OK?  ( I know you.... )


-JW

[rageglide]

Well I could try putting that pogo seat back on, but man it sat a mile too high for my short legs. I'd have to see about hacking the spring pack to drop it an inch or three, but then I think it would be bottoming out so where's that get you? And that cheezy shiny plastic skirt has to go.  What the hell might as well give it a shot, although I sure would like to have a nice new seat waiting in the garage to plop on it when I get back from Asia.

Mark, which Mustang you have, the 12" or 16"? Comfort-wise, you like it?

And Bob, hell yeah, take it out. Just keep it under 90, OK?  ( I know you.... )


-JW

Cheezy plastic skirt.     Too bad it's not possible to have both a good lookin seat and it be comfy too...  unobtanium.

I'll leave your scoot in it's rightful garage... but maybe it would be the easy way to slow me down... :-) 
Going to have a helluva time keepin under 90 on the RG...

Enjoy the trip once you get there... Stay out of Malaysia Airline planes...

[76shuvlinoff]

Mark, which Mustang you have, the 12" or 16"? Comfort-wise, you like it?

Mine is the 16, without the bags it looks a bit out of place which is why when I go to bar blaster version I put the Lepera on. (I've had this bike for 21 years and I get bored fast so I change things around more than my daughter ever did her Barbies)

It was always fairly comfortable but at first I felt it pushed and tilted me forward. I was able to get it backed up an inch using FLH dashboard shims and that helped but it still felt like I was sliding forward (a few hundred miles of sliding forward really wedges your drawers into your boys). I took battery tray rubber mounts, cut one end off and screwed them into the seat pan where it rides on the frame. It raised the front of it just over an inch. Now if someone wanted that old Mustang... we'd have to fight. 

I did extend the tabs at the front too.

[rageglide]

That seat looks right at home with the bags on.  And not bad for a comfy seat.   

[76shuvlinoff]

Thanks! It's not my favorite version for looking at but it's my very most favorite version if I am going to ride more than 50 miles.

  I used to call the Lepera an 80 mile seat, then I called it a 50 mile seat. Now it might go to town and back. I think my bony ass is getting more bony.

[JW113]

Very cool! I went out and held a tape measure up to the fender, yeah 16" is little on the wide side with no bags. I went ahead and ordered up the 12", we'll see how it works out. Price was reasonable, so if that don't cut it will go on the hunt.

I know exactly what you mean about changing stuff around every other third day.


-JW

[Old Crow]

I know exactly what you mean about changing stuff around every other third day.


-JW

Yup, exactly why my Evo FLT is wearing FLHS clothes at the moment.

[rageglide]

My 2005 Roadglide got turned into an Electra Glide, then back to a Roadglide a couple years later...  My evo softail has transformed back and forth between full on Heritage stuff, to bare bones wideglide/custom and everything in between... apes, fatboy, heritage, flat, mid... apes.. back and forth...

JW has me beat on bar changes however.. I think at one point he changed his bars out on his Roadking 3 times in 2 weeks... running the wires through the bars even... 

[Old Crow]

I've got a set of short bars for my wife's Superglide.  Every once in a while she'll get tired of the apes and I'll switch to the short bars for her.  Then, in a couple of weeks, I'll change 'em back. I've gotten so I don't even screw with the clutch and throttle cables.  Just loop 'em toward the front of the bike and tie wrap 'em.

[rageglide]

Once I ran the wiring through the bars I pretty much stopped swapping bars every couple months.    I'm surprised JW doesn't have a complete master cylinder, line and front caliper(set), pre-wired set of bars available for super quickie changes.

[76shuvlinoff]

Suddenly I don't feel so all alone.   

I have not taken inventory in a while and I've sold or given some stuff away but I know I have 3 sets of bars and yes I run the wiring inside, 3 different seats, maybe 4 good rear sprockets (different tooth counts) with two different length rear chains depending on the mood and mode I am in. 2nd transmission, 4th different clutch configuration, 2nd paint job 3rd set of tank badges, 3rd set of bags, the 3rd windshield is still new in the box in the basement. 3 different length sets of rear shocks and currently sporting an adjustable swingarm so yes, the stock one is in the basement. 3rd set of front forks to accommodate the 3rd front brake configuration.

  The 93" shovelish motor has had a few cams, a S&S 560, Andrews B, back to 560, Leineweber L3S, Andrews 7 and is on the 5th carb. 5 different pipes, two of those pipes twice.

Purists hate me. eBay loves me.

Now there's Twinkie stuff piling up in the corner. 

[JW113]

Having the right set of bars for the right moment is my own personal hell. With the way traffic is around here in the Bay Area, to freakin HAVE to have apes to get the bar ends up over the car mirrors to split lanes, except on a couple of the freeways with wider lanes. But most of 'em and the expressways are on the narrow side, so dresser or fatboy bars just don't cut it. But then out of town where you can get the highway speeds up, apes kill me these days. In my 30s no problem, but now pushing 60, just don't work for my poor old back. Up to 70 is no problem as long as no headwind, but this is the west coast and there is always a headwind. 

A have two sets of bars for my RK, 16" apes and Fatboy, both with internal wires. I use the same brake line so just have to unbolt/bolt back the controls, and unplug/plug the wires. That part is quick, the only tedious part is changing the clutch cable. Fact of the matter is, I have never liked the ergos on this Road King. The bike is simply too big for a short 5'-8" guy like me. The steering head is too far forward, the seat is too far back, and the floorboards too far forward as well, plus it's freakin heavier than hell. It came stock with a crash bar, but with highway pegs on it I could only reach them with my tippy toes! My '91 Softail suited me perfectly. And frankly this Electra Glide even more so, feels a little lighter than a Softail and the eros are perfect. I don't envision changing things around on it much, but then again, how many times have I said that!

Speaking of being a short guy, I'm sitting here right now in Hong Kong airport. Interesting to see what it feels like to be one of the taller people around...


-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

5'8" here too. I run 14" bars on the shovel. With the Lepera it put the bars at or just above my shoulders with the Mustang they are slightly under.

Changing bars on the shovel is nothing compared to changing the bars on my 12 Ultra EG. I needed something to come back to me a bit or my neck/shoulders would kill me in 100 miles. All day pain in the ass chore for a newb. (what? something like 32 wires to run inside?) unpinning and pinning at the kitchen table. Then I fouled up the fork lock and spent hours getting that right.

I invented 10th degree vulgarity.

Mark

[JamLazyAss]

Where exactly are you measuring the bars from?
I'm running (I think) 12 inch bars, but might be 14 depending on where I measure them.

[76shuvlinoff]

Where exactly are you measuring the bars from?
I'm running (I think) 12 inch bars, but might be 14 depending on where I measure them.

As for me I am not measuring, they were listed as 14s and I bought em. Before these I had 12s, before that stockers.  Been thinking about going back to stock to catch a little less wind. 

[rageglide]

Mark, You could put a windshield on...   

I run/ran kurriedacorns 16" center to center.  Here's an old pic, same bars on my softail now, and flat bars on the shovel...

[76shuvlinoff]

Nice looking shovel Bob. 

JW I am not hijacking your thread but Bob laid out a challenge

Mark, You could put a windshield on...   

Not long ago at all
14" bars, windshield, windshield bags, Big Bertha saddle bags, Mustang seating front and rear with passenger backrest. True dual exhaust, Evo Rush touring mufflers (Yeah I should'a shortened those) was back to 51 tooth rear sprocket. Crash bar with oil running though it for a cooler. 

I give you the Family Wagon mode:  This version was heavy and sluggish, it is what convinced me to get the batwinged Ultra with a throne for the wife.

[rageglide]

Nice looking shovel Bob. 

JW I am not hijacking your thread but Bob laid out a challenge

Thanks Mark.

You definitely got the full monty in action there.  Looks like a Heritage softail set up like that. I bet it's pretty comfortable.  I never could stand the barn door shield, but I do see a lot of guys doing what you did, running barn door with apes.   I have a small windvest I have used a couple times, but prefered a small Rifle windscreen.  My favorite shield of all times is a sleeping bag.  Works great with apes.   

[Old Crow]

I'd like to put a shield on the '87 with the FLHS mods.  My prescription glasses do OK behind the fairing on the Shovel,  but without it, on the '87, I need to switch to riding glasses or get a windshield.
Trouble is, the windshield brackets for that FLHS setup seem to be hard to come by.

[76shuvlinoff]

I cut my shields so the top is level with the tip of my nose... Except on my Ultra, it still has the full factory shield on it because my wife is tall to start with and then she gets up there on that EG perch. Sooner or later that is going to bite me in a down pour.

Mark

[rageglide]

Full disclosure, I've always worn a full face helmet since I was kid.  On occasion I'll ride with a shorty (non-dot) or no helmet out of state.  Shields really create hell for the FF helmet.  But have found not so bad with beanie or no helmet.  But the thing I most like about FF is that I've got a windshield - already, when i need it, ie when it starts raining, or we run across a plague of locusts (or head first into a swarm of bees! once).  I ride with the shield up 99% of the time otherwise.  The other plus to the FF is sun protection... redhead + sun = bad news.

Anyway... lol  we digress.

[Old Crow]

redhead + sun = bad news.

Aye, pull the other one, it's got bells on   

[rageglide]

Aye, pull the other one, it's got bells on   

[Hossamania]

5'8" ? You guys are giants. I was 5'6", now, less. Just to digress more, my '01 Road King is lowered 2" in front, 3/4" lower rear shock offsets, Sundowner seat. I fit flat footed, no real clearance issues, bike doesn't look unbalanced with the offset lowering stance.
Love your Shovels, always been my favorite bikes. On my list to get, especially since prices are back to being reasonable, for the most part.

[smokedyvr]

Im on the other end of the spectrum at 6'4" and 290! Everythings made for the 5'9" range! 

[JW113]

5'9" That was me (maybe a little bit more) 20 years ago, before I shrank. But these new dresser bikes are targeted to 6 foot or more in my opinion.

Boy we've hijacked this thread to the limit, hope the imod don't intervene!

I'm here in Penang Malaysia. No HDs to be seen so far, but scooter trash rules here. Thousands upon thousands of 'em. They way they split lanes here would make a California biker's nads pull up into his belly and never drop back down. I saw today a woman on a scooter with three kids on board, one in front (maybe 3 years old?) holding onto the bars and two behind, splitting up the middle with a RCH between her bars and the cars. On a SCOOTER!!!!  I kid you not. Tried to catch a pic but they went by too fast, caught the back end of them. Freakin' crazy I tell ya...


Oh yeah, Shovelheads rule!!!!!!! Goobah goobah!! GooooooooooooooooBaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

-JW

[Old Crow]

None of you short guys would be comfortable on my Shovel.  Got the cop airbag solo seat setup.  My wife is about 5'8", and she won't ride it because with that seat, she can't reach the ground.
When I bought the Evo FLT bike it had a brand new 2" over windshield with it.  Put that one on the Shovel, and put the standard height one on the Evo bike.  Now I've got to find some bars with the wide width at the bottom(goes through the instrument pod)and about 2-3" more rise.

[76shuvlinoff]

Once with 11" shocks, an adjustable swingarm, plus the 3 degree bearing cups in front I had the shovel too low to corner at over 10 mph.  One trip around the block and it went back up. The chain did some clearancing on the starter gear housing too. I've been riding with 12.5" (or 13"?) 2005 FX shocks for a couple years. That swingarm lets me tweak it keep her level when loaded but the T-Header still makes contact on a real hard right. I intend to pull the front end off and put the stock bearing cups back in this winter. She'll still be a lot lower than my Ultra. I had to lower the rear and have an upholstery guy due surgery on that seat for me to feel right on that one.

Mark

[JW113]

[tap tap tap]

[oouuuuuuuuuuUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU]

Is this thing on?

Kind of quiet on the old Shovelhead forum there boys. Y'all got the old iron mules locked in the stable for winter?

Still working the kinks out of mine. Finally figured out what was going on with that Crane/S&S Hi-4 problem with it running on the rear cylinder only. After getting the second replacement Hi-4 from S&S (third one now!), I put it on and EXACTLY the same thing. Runs on the rear cylinder. OK, hold on now. How can this be? What is absolutely CANNOT be is the ignition module. Three in a row, same problem? No way.

I know the coils are good, it runs just fine with points using those coils. So what is left? The power of deduction left only one component to try: the rotor on the end of the cam. You're supposed to use a rotor from a 90s Evo. The local HD dealer did not have one (of course!). So I went to the local indy and bought Drag Specialties rotor.
<OK so now I need to be taken out and horse whipped yet again for believing any of this taiwanees made crap is actually going to work>

V-Twin, DS, CCI = 

I called around and found that Oakland HD had a stock rotor on hand so I drove up there and snagged it. I pulled the DS rotor out and compared to the stock one. The "windows" were in the right place, but somehow the fake rotor and real rotor did not quite match up exactly. SHOCKING, right? The fake one was a little bit shorter, and the windows were not quite as deep as the stock one.

I put the HD rotor in, and BOOM, fired right up on both cylinders. Sheesh!!


So let that be a lesson to you guys, DO NOT BUY ~ MADE JUNK!



So here is my laundry list of stuff to do to finish the project.

1. Time the ignition with timing light  (just bought a new one, my old one sucks)
2. Put the light bar/turn signals/passing lamps on, and the rear turn signals
3. Change the rear sprocket from a 48T to a 51T (way too tall geared right now, 2.97:1)

Even with the 51T (3:16:1), will probably still be too tall. Have a 22T trans sprocket on order, will likely install that to get me 3.31:1. I think the stock 74" shovel motor will like that a whole bunch more.

The old MMA swap meet they used to have out here up at the Cow Palace is now being held up in Dixon CA. I'm headed up there tomorrow morning, see if there's any good junk I need to haul back home. Anybody else in the area headed up there?

-JW

[76shuvlinoff]

Here in MI between work, holidays (too much family  ), and watching a bit of college football, the poor old shovel is getting dusty on the table. I've been preoccupied with highly technical stuff like sorting out a new cell phone and the smart TV my wife and I decided was our Christmas present to us.

Glad you got the sparker sorted out.