New 2015 Ultra

[randyman]

We have decided to start looking at new Ultra Limiteds.  I had a 2014 Street Glide and the exhaust heat was unbearable.  Has anybody found a plan that works for reducing heat.  I am not against removing convertor but don't want check engine light problems.

[tolobill]

This is what I have on mine and it is great.
fuelmoto 2-1-2 stainless ceramic coated header
e-series muffler
powervision 2
ness big sucker

[harvman]

What are you looking to get for the SG? I may be interested.

Nevermind I just read that you HAD a 2014.

[UltraNutZ]

easy fix.  get rid of the stock head pipe and slap a Fullsac DX pipe on there with your stock mufflers.  Then go get the bike properly tuned.

[carolinayarddog]

What Ultranutz said, except I went with RC slipons; no more heat, better sound

Yarddog

Its a sorry dog that wont bark its own yard

[randyman]

I had the Street Glide 4 months and sold it.  Only put seven thousand miles on it just didn't work out for us.

[Super Dave]

I have a 2014 Ultra Limited. Heat is not a problem. I think this is due to the "wethead" Project Rushmore design. I haven't sat idleing in summer heat yet but I can tell you that it's way way way way better than my 2004 Ultra.
I have the ETIMS turned on for when it does start getting hotter. I put Street Cannons on it which probably leaned it out a bit and XIED's to richen it a tad but I didn't notice them making it cooler.
When I put my hand down by the radiator exhaust I can feel how much heat is being transferred to the air. It's a lot. When it gets hot enough, fans kick on and blow over the radiators to expel heat. Nice design that has worked real well on my bike.
If you tour or ride two up, I think you'll really like the Limited.

[UltraNutZ]

oh that's another thing.  I notice some tuners will turn EITMS off altogether and I don't get that but I'm sure they have their reasons for it.  I feel it should be left on so I would make sure it's left on by your tuner when he's done tuning.

[glens]

The owner's manual describes EITMS the same way it has for several years but I'm sure I saw somewhere that on the wet-heads they changed it to activate at any temperature over 80F.

I just picked one up at the end of November so haven't had a chance yet to see for myself.  Anybody have direct experience?  Which is it, engine temp as before or ambient temp?

[JD HD]

I got rid of my 2012 Limited for my 2014 wet head and a huge factor in that decision was the how much less felt heat it put off. I just can't describe how much more enjoyable this bike is for me because of it. I ran it bone stock for most of last year and still found the heat tolerable. I got caught in heavy road construction last year on a 90 degree day and sure enough the fans came on after a short while of idling and after a few minutes they would shut off. This told me the new setup was working well since it was clearly cooling itself off enough to shut the fans back off. I could definitely feel some heat coming from the motor, but nothing like the 2012. The old bike would have gone nuclear in that situation, even with the stage one setup on it. I normally agree with almost everything UltraNutz says that I have common knowledge of (though he is much smarter than me with these bikes), but I'm going to have to disagree with the EITMS. I find it to be a piss-poor bandaid Harley came up with to try and reign in the heat issues with the 103's. It's particularly obnoxious on the Rushmores in temps over 80 and simply not needed on a wet head IMO. But I guess that would be another thread all to itself.

[c1tori]

My stock 14 wet head is much cooler than my 12. EITMS comes on at 80 degrees.  Here in the south it seems like it kicks in at every stop.

[GregOn2Wheels]

I got rid of my 2012 Limited for my 2014 wet head and a huge factor in that decision was the how much less felt heat it put off. I just can't describe how much more enjoyable this bike is for me because of it. I ran it bone stock for most of last year and still found the heat tolerable. I got caught in heavy road construction last year on a 90 degree day and sure enough the fans came on after a short while of idling and after a few minutes they would shut off. This told me the new setup was working well since it was clearly cooling itself off enough to shut the fans back off. I could definitely feel some heat coming from the motor, but nothing like the 2012. The old bike would have gone nuclear in that situation, even with the stage one setup on it. I normally agree with almost everything UltraNutz says that I have common knowledge of (though he is much smarter than me with these bikes), but I'm going to have to disagree with the EITMS. I find it to be a piss-poor bandaid Harley came up with to try and reign in the heat issues with the 103's. It's particularly obnoxious on the Rushmores in temps over 80 and simply not needed on a wet head IMO. But I guess that would be another thread all to itself.

I agree

[randyman]

I might just do some slip ons and see if I like it.  The wethead design is actually a pretty neat setup.

[Super Dave]

PS The wethead also has a little bump in compression which is nice.

[JD HD]

I might just do some slip ons and see if I like it.  The wethead design is actually a pretty neat setup.

It works a lot better than I thought it would. I rented one for a couple of days before I bought mine and rode the p**s out it before I made the decision. While nothing beats an actual dyno tune, I can say mine ran a lot better with the Dynojet "Stock Improved" canned map in my Powervision.

[glens]

So I take it then that the EITMS, if enabled, is active at ambient temperatures of 80F +.

I'll just leave it disabled, then.

[JD HD]

So I take it then that the EITMS, if enabled, is active at ambient temperatures of 80F +.

I'll just leave it disabled, then.

Correct. On the Rushmores, after the bike has been running for a certain amount of time (I cant remember the exact amount, it's in the manual. Under 10 minutes I believe) and ambient temps are above 80 degrees, the bike will turn on EITMS regardless of engine temperature (if enabled).

[metaliser]

I might just do some slip ons and see if I like it.  The wethead design is actually a pretty neat setup.

Randy I have a 2014 wethead and they are awesome bikes but don't be fooled into thinking they won't have heat because they do but not as bad as earlier models but the number 1 thing you can do to help that issue is loose the stock head pipe and get a 2-1-2 from someone, whether it's Fuel-Moto like I have or Fulsak  or V&H's PD's etc, I think you get what I mean, this in turn with a proper tune will insure miles of cool riding ahead and taking full advantage of the newer cam's in the newer engines. Again when the bike is stock it's bearable but it can get a lot better if you do these few mod's. A lot of great advice you've got already but I just wanted to try and help as well, good luck. 

[ruddie402]

I have a 2015 Ultra, the only issue was the heat from the CAT. So, I just replaced the stock system with Vance & Hine Power Duals and heat issue is gone. I left the stock intake & mufflers with the PD's and the sound is a little deeper and a little louder. Bike runs great and heat is greatly reduced, think I'll keep it this way for awhile. My last Ultra was very loud, and as I get older I'm leaning toward less noise.

[glens]

I have a 2014 Ultra Limited.  ... I put Street Cannons on it which probably leaned it out a bit and XIED's to richen it a tad but I didn't notice them making it cooler. ...

The mufflers won't be leaning it out over the long run (adaptive fueling), but the XIEDs will sure make the cat burn hotter.

[Super Dave]

adaptive fueling?

[glens]

The closed-loop system keeps track of what it had to do different to get the fueling correct and stores the information in non-volatile memory for future reference.  It's rather coarse-grained and limited in range - more for keeping a fairly-tuned calibration fair than for making a poorly-tuned one better.

Think in terms of differing fuel blends encountered, varying fuel pressure and/or injector response over time, dirtying air filter, etc.  This is what it's meant to handle.

Different mufflers (only) can certainly fall outside the realm of what's appropriate but for the most part it seems to work okay with them.

Using the XIEDs as mentioned earlier takes a chunk right out of the available adaptive range.  That's the best than can be said of them IMO - I'm not a fan.

[randyman]

Going with a Vance and Hines Pro-Pipe.  Not sure on tuner yet but probably power commander.

[PosseRider]

On the Wet Head.  Just got a new 15 Limited Low. This is the first Ultra since 1989,that I have NOT wanted to take off the lowers !! (I know,can't anyway).  Every year previous first thing I did was remove the lowers. I have been in SW Florida for almost 2 months riding in high 80s to low 90s and have not felt the need to remove them. Huge difference. Was concerned when ready to purchase this bike, but figured if I could not stand it, I would go back to a bike without the water. Heat really affects me when riding,but no more. I have been in a lot of stop & go down here also, I feel they are doing a good job now. Back to Ohio next week ,so, if I didnt need the lowers off here, I will be fine at home.