Exhaust question: OEM headers vs true duals vs 2-1?

[Finn]

Ladies and gentlemen,

my question today is if everything else is to be kept the same but only exhaust is changed from

OEM headers with slip-ons to true dual headers with same slip-ons
or
OEM headers with same slip-ons to 2-1 exhaust such as Supermeg
or
true dual headers with same slip-ons to 2-1 exhaust such as Supermeg

How does torque and hp change with each change, increase or decrease? Will true duals and/or 2-1 bring or lose numbers compared to OEM headers?

I'm after info of which exhaust would give me the most torque in my FLHR.

[FLTRI]

Ladies and gentlemen,

my question today is if everything else is to be kept the same but only exhaust is changed from

OEM headers with slip-ons to true dual headers with same slip-ons
or
OEM headers with same slip-ons to 2-1 exhaust such as Supermeg
or
true dual headers with same slip-ons to 2-1 exhaust such as Supermeg

How does torque and hp change with each change, increase or decrease? Will true duals and/or 2-1 bring or lose numbers compared to OEM headers?

I'm after info of which exhaust would give me the most torque in my FLHR.

Freeflowing (open) slipon mufflers with the stock headpipe (w/cat) will preserve bottom end torque and power increase all running areas. That's the most economic way to get to where you want to be.
Don't forget to get it tuned for best running (cooler) as well.
Bob
Bob

[stogieluvr60]

Ladies and gentlemen,

my question today is if everything else is to be kept the same but only exhaust is changed from

OEM headers with slip-ons to true dual headers with same slip-ons
or
OEM headers with same slip-ons to 2-1 exhaust such as Supermeg
or
true dual headers with same slip-ons to 2-1 exhaust such as Supermeg

How does torque and hp change with each change, increase or decrease? Will true duals and/or 2-1 bring or lose numbers compared to OEM headers?

I'm after info of which exhaust would give me the most torque in my FLHR.

What is the current state of your Road Glide? Stock other than exhaust or what? I see you have had a 124 in the past so what the deal with this ride?

[Finn]

My current exhaust is OEM headers with Hooker Tuned Flow slip-ons.

Pondering whether to go with Fullsac true dual kit (bargain at around 170 bucks) or with Supermeg 2-1 with my mild build.

I would be hesitant to make either of above changes to my current exhaust if it would move torque up or make lower tq numbers.

[q1svt]

The old style head pipe are dated.

Most 2-1 are design for mid-to-top end

True duals for stock to mild builds are good option

2-1-2 are good for stock, mild and performance builds

[Admiral Akbar]

Ladies and gentlemen,

my question today is if everything else is to be kept the same but only exhaust is changed from

OEM headers with slip-ons to true dual headers with same slip-ons
or
OEM headers with same slip-ons to 2-1 exhaust such as Supermeg
or
true dual headers with same slip-ons to 2-1 exhaust such as Supermeg

How does torque and hp change with each change, increase or decrease? Will true duals and/or 2-1 bring or lose numbers compared to OEM headers?

I'm after info of which exhaust would give me the most torque in my FLHR.

Yes

Yes

[FLTRI]

My current exhaust is OEM headers with Hooker Tuned Flow slip-ons.

What year is this bike? Supermeg w/10 discs and closed end cap with a good tune will work no matter what year?
Hooker Tuned Flow slipons were not The best choice based on tuning bikes with these muffs.
If you have an early stage 1-2 bike the stock "y" pipe work adequately.
If you have a 09-up touring bike then free flowing (open) slipons with the cat in place will work very well.
Bob

[Finn]

It is a 2003 carbed FLHR.

[Bigbluff]

I suspect that with the stock cam/heads, it won't matter much. Probably detectable on a real dyno, but doubtful on the "butt dyno." For me, true duals sound the best no matter what they are on. On an otherwise stock bike I'd go with true duals. Depending on how much it's built after that and how much difference it would actually make would determine how much of the sound quality I would be willing to give up for performance. For most performance builds, true duals are the bottom of the barrel when it comes to performance.

Others will probably tell me I'm all wrong...and I probably am, but opinions are like (_o_)... Everyone has one and they usually stink...including mine...

[glens]

If you have a 09-up touring bike then free flowing (open) slipons with the cat in place will work very well.

Bob, including '09 itself in that group it should be specified that a California (maybe International?) head pipe with catalyst is required.  Stuck where you are you might not have ever seen a 49-state '09 pipe?  I know you know, but as long as I'm jabbering, the 49-state pipe looked the same externally (except for the more upstream, larger O2 bungs) but was just an empty can where the cat is otherwise.

With that on the table, does your recommendation apply to them as well?

My experience is (even currently) that 2" core Rush slip-ons, everything else bone stock, works very well with the '09+ catalyst head pipe.  Obviously, in most every case an individual tune would be beneficial, but in my two experiences so far with the cat, pre-tuning interface, things don't change enough to cause any sort of running issues with the factory calibration.

[FLTRI]

Got me Glen! Yep 09 was the bastard year exhaust because they stayed with the 18mm sensors with a cat in California and then filled the box for the rest of the country the following year and move the sensors downstream and upgraded to the 12mm mini sensors.
Just don't know why the MOCO would make and intermediate pipe unless the mini sensors hadn't got approval from the EPA in time?
Bob

[Nowhereman]

Every time I have had the bug to swap out pipes, I always keep going back to a 2 into 1 for the best performance.
Low end to high end, nothing works better for the street or almost all racing applications.
Only time I could see a 2 into 1 not be the best would be in a fuel application where max HP at the high end (for drag racing) is what counts.

[jmorton10]

For me, true duals sound the best no matter what they are on.

I definitely agree with that.

Although I am now running a Dragula for performance, I think the all time best sounding pipes ever (other than an old shovel with drag pipes) are the Rinehart True Duals I used to run.

~John

[PkgMan]

on my 2012 FLTRX, its completely stock other than a set of Thunder header slipon mufflers.  Bike runs fantastic and sounds great

PkgMan

[Matt C]

Every time I have had the bug to swap out pipes, I always keep going back to a 2 into 1 for the best performance.
Low end to high end, nothing works better for the street or almost all racing applications.
Only time I could see a 2 into 1 not be the best would be in a fuel application where max HP at the high end (for drag racing) is what counts.

2->1 will outperform the rest of them, hands down. Now, as far as sound goes? That's a personal preference.
(For me, personally; The best sounding pipe is the one that performs the best.)

[Nowhereman]

Every time I have had the bug to swap out pipes, I always keep going back to a 2 into 1 for the best performance.
Low end to high end, nothing works better for the street or almost all racing applications.
Only time I could see a 2 into 1 not be the best would be in a fuel application where max HP at the high end (for drag racing) is what counts.

2->1 will outperform the rest of them, hands down. Now, as far as sound goes? That's a personal preference.
(For me, personally; The best sounding pipe is the one that performs the best.)

I'd have to agree completely.

[No Cents]

 I also 
2n1 work best on almost every application unless you want the top hp peak #'s...then a 2n2 drag pipe wins hands down.

Ray

[Finn]

I asked today my trusty parts guy about the Supermeg. My price is pretty much even 1000,- Euros ie. USD 1100,-. 

I think I will have another look at Fullsac true dual conversion kit or other true duals headers. 

[strokerjlk]

I wouldn't change the exhaust you have now .
My best 88 ci stage one was with the same exhaust you have now .
Those mufflers work good at your level, as does the stock head pipe .

[Nowhereman]

Try this.
Pick up a used Pro pipe and throw away the collector / muffler.
Then pick up a Burns Stainless Megaphone muffler to match the Pro Pipe  merge opening.
Weld or clamp it on and go have some serious fun.
Used Pro pipes are cheap and the Burns unit run around $300.00
You will drop some 10 to 15 lbs and let your bike breathe much better.

[FLTRI]

Try this.
Pick up a used Pro pipe and throw away the collector / muffler.
Then pick up a Burns Stainless Megaphone muffler to match the Pro Pipe  merge opening.
Weld or clamp it on and go have some serious fun.
Used Pro pipes are cheap and the Burns unit run around $300.00
You will drop some 10 to 15 lbs and let your bike breathe much better.

All that to get a good running, mild build, Bagger? $$$
Bob

[Jonny Cash]

The supermeg works really well for me.

[Nowhereman]

Try this.
Pick up a used Pro pipe and throw away the collector / muffler.
Then pick up a Burns Stainless Megaphone muffler to match the Pro Pipe  merge opening.
Weld or clamp it on and go have some serious fun.
Used Pro pipes are cheap and the Burns unit run around $300.00
You will drop some 10 to 15 lbs and let your bike breathe much better.

All that to get a good running, mild build, Bagger? $$$
Bob

Not much, Pro pipes on Ebay go for around 150 bucks.
Burns unit another 300.00
That combo would be better than almost everything on the market.

[1FSTRK]

The old style head pipe are dated.

Most 2-1 are design for mid-to-top end

True duals for stock to mild builds are good option

2-1-2 are good for stock, mild and performance builds

Great post
The old school thinking went out the window when the 2-1-2 and x pipes came out.
The key is the additional muffler volume of these new systems.

[gabbyduffy]

        Does the 09 catless head pipe out perform the 13 cat in head pipe both with a set of free flowing mufflers?