Modifying Stock CV Carburetor

[HyperDetroit]

I am thinking about modifying my CV Carb, it does need a larger pilot jet, lean popping on slightly open throttle since I changed to SE air cleaner from stock.  I have it off the bike now, could not get the fuel bowl screws closest to the engine off without removing the carb.  Now that it's off, I am thinking about modifying it in accordance with the nightrider recipe using the Sportster needle. 

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

In the future I am planning on upgrading cam to Wood W6 along with SE Heads.

Anyone ever done this CV mod? Is this a good way to go? Any other suggestions?  Ideally I'd love to get a Mik 42mm, but that's not within the budget right now.

Thanks in Advance
Hyper

[RLPOS1]

Carb jetting and tuning is a quick way to gain some performance and ridability.Do a search on me and find some info on the cv carb jetting. Also some people tend to like the drilling of the slide and some don't. I prefer not but the rest of the info that the site provides is excelent

[05FLHTC]

  the slide is a grab shoot, might work nice might not, I'd leave that alone also, sporty needle & one size up on the pilot should do it. If you don't have access to the needle just shim the stock a tad or just try the pilot 1st B4 ya do more.

Make sure there are no intake leaks, might be good idea to check / change them intake seals while yr in there...

[RLPOS1]

I have  a spare CV carb and a Sportster needle here. Bought the carb when I was doing the carb work on my bikebut went with the Thunderjet kit instead. The needle and the idle jet where the first changes I did to the bike( to keep it from being so cold natured) after I bought it new in 96

[HyperDetroit]

Thanks for the replies:

I was a bit apprehensive about drilling it myself and your replies confirmed it,  going to do the Sportster needle and bigger pilot jet.  I bought the bike used this may, but evidently someone before me was messing with the carburetor.  It has a 180 main jet, should I replace it with 165?  There is some black soot on the inside of the mufflers, that's why I think it runs a tad bit rich on the main jet.  The popping through carburetor on a slightly open throttle tells me the pilot jet is too small. 
I'd like to buy the needle from you, but with shipping delay it'll put me back too far.  There are 3 dealers by me, I am sure one of them will have it.

Thanks again
Hyper

[96dynabagger]

165 is WAY too small.  I run a 180 on an 80 inch bike and there's some black soot, but it
runs perfect. 

Set your main jet with WOT performance only.  The needle is used to adjust fuel mix feed when the venturi area changes, so the needle is what's changed or shimmed to get your part throttle right.
Shim with #4 washers (if needed), available at hobby stores.

The primary jet is used for off idle and if you're ending up anywhere other than a #45, I'll be shocked.

[92Fatty]

I used the nightrider setup. I have a 180 main and 45 intermediate. I have the sportster needle and I drilled the slide. I used a 7/64 bit rather than a 1/8 bit. John S recommended this to me in the past. Mine runs great. I think the big hang up is when you start chopping the spring. I also used some 2000 grit sandpaper and deburred the slide. My bike is stock except for a hypercharger and longshot pipes with no baffles.

[Norton Commando]

I installed a K&N air filter and Screamin Eagle exhaust, which made the stock carburetor jetting on my '90 EVO carburetor way too lean. So I rejetted with a Dynojet needle, 180 main jet and 45 pilot jet.  I did not drill the slide and feel that throttle response is more than adequate.

[shadylane]

You can drill the hole in the slide or you can use a weaker spring but don't do both, that's a quick trip to boggsville. Personally I'd leave that part of the carb alone.
Set the idle mixture screw a little bit on the lean side when the engine is warm, use the "enrichiner" as necessary. If it's still needed after a couple miles then back the idle mixture out a 1/2 turn.
I run the smallest pilot jet that the weather will allow without surging or the occasional carb fart.
The pilot jet controls from just off idle to very light throttle. As the slide begins to rise the diameter, height and tapper of the nettle begins to have more effect.
After half throttle or more on a hard pull the main jet controls everything. Start out too rich and slowly lean out the motor until its definitely too lean then richen up two main jet sizes. There will be a definite point at which it gets too lean. Continued operation at this point can burn valves or melt holes in pistons if you persist.

[HyperDetroit]

Well, I finally had the time to put it back together. I did drill out the vacuum port, cut a coil and a half off the diaphragm spring, installed Sportster needle and 45 pilot jet. 
My first impression is that the throttle response is much better than it was, no more lean popping, all in all not too shabby.

Thanks for all replies
Hyper

[speed limit]

Save yourself some time and money and get a 42 mik.

[96roadking]

Boy it's been a long time since I jetted a carb, did it years ago and it's still running great. Both bikes are basically stock other than the mufflers and K/N air filter. The Sportster has a 45/170 with a 88 Sportster needle, did not drill slide. The bike screws with this setup and the plugs burn perfect. The Road King has a Thunderslide instead. Some people haven't had much luck with these but it worked out good for me. It had a lighter slide and spring for faster response time and a lot of related parts like adjustable needle, emulsion tube, nozzle check ball/weight, etc. If I remember right I ended up using Harley jets with it. The size of their jets were drilled differently, not the same as Harley's. Anyway I have a 45/185 with perfect plug burn. Only mod is the K/N and Mufflers. It runs like a bear compared to stock set up. I cant say whether there is a bigger enough difference to justify the price of the Thunderslide. Just changing your jets and needle will give you almost the same for only a fraction of the cost, Your call.
One other thing, if you want to remove your fuel bowl without removing the carb a flexable screwdriver shaft works great.     
Example: http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/tools/8518/
These or similar can be had cheaper than this one.