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1
Twin Cam / Re: Redshift 576 or Tman 580-590 or Woods 6H
« Last post by Colorabee on Today at 10:48:47 PM »
The woods 6 is a great cam, but with 10.6 static comp, I expect they will ping.  Better to choose something with later close.
2
Twin Cam / Re: leaking valve stem seal in new head
« Last post by 98fxstc on Today at 09:58:40 PM »
not sure Bob
they are more common due to heat aren't they ?
3
Twin Cam / Re: leaking valve stem seal in new head
« Last post by FXDBI on Today at 09:07:04 PM »
Exhaust valve?    Bob
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Twin Cam / leaking valve stem seal in new head
« Last post by 98fxstc on Today at 08:57:15 PM »
A friend just had a new S&S 110 kit fitted to his 2015 103 Breakout
the local shop fitted the kit, sold here as the stage 6 kit - with heads,635 cams and HPI 55 tb
they did the heat cycles, put a few break-in road miles on it and then did a preliminary dyno tune.
The bike was returned to the owner to get some miles into the engine and then return it for a full dyno tune.

No problems with the engine during this time and was about ready to go back to the shop with about 700 miles on it when an oil leak at the rear head/header pipe fitting became apparent.
The bike was returned to the shop where the head was pulled off and a leaking valve stem seal was found.

I am curious, first of all, to find out whether any one else has experienced a similar problem with a new S&S head.

Also, I am aware that valve stem seals can be a problem with older heads
and that a new build may have problems early on if the seal did not seat properly or was faulty.

I am interested in theories as to why this might have occurred after putting a reasonable number of miles on the engine.

Thanks
5
EVO 1340 / Re: EVO Carbs
« Last post by JW113 on Today at 08:42:39 PM »
WFO Larry: if you are after high HP numbers on a dyno, CV is maybe not the ideal choice. Proboly 3 or 4 more HP with a non-CV carb. So, I agree. You're also talking stage 3, which I was saying stage 2 (ordinary street bikes) the CV gets the job done. Stage 3, well, maybe consider something else. Like a CV51.
 :SM:

Capn: if you're not chainging altitute a lot, and don't care about fuel consumption, yes the S&S carbs work well. Being a Califorina wacko, spewing as few carbon atoms into the atmosphere as possilbe is important.
 :SM:

OK just rattling your cage! Smootchies all around!
 :hyst:

-JW
6
AFR & Tuning Zone / Re: FuelPak Pro - what's your opinion?
« Last post by 98fxstc on Today at 08:28:54 PM »
The file is scrambled,  it's on bike but you can't read it
I don't understand how they could do that.
Could only have one file in the ecm and it would have to be a functioning calibration. ???
That's not quite right, with the screamin eagle software when you hit program it programs the ECM, once that's complete it then saves the calibration to the dongle, you can see the progress is shown on the computer screen, if the tuner pulls the cord in that procedure the file is then corrupted, can't pull the cal back out of the ECM and read or edit it with the screamin eagle software, Power Vision can I think, couldn't with TTS when I had that either from memory.

OK
Thanks Hilly
7
Pan Head / Re: Accel A557 ignition installation problems
« Last post by cheech on Today at 08:21:27 PM »
Hello fellow Harley riders,



Next, the instructions are a little vague!
In the beginning it says, that the red status LED flashes when the engine reaches top dead center (TDC), but later it says that I have to rotate the ignition unit back and forth until the red LED illuminates. Then slowly rotate the unit clockwise until the LED goes out. And note that the LED goes out at TDC.
So what is correct? That the LED flashes when the engine reaches TDC or has TDC been reached, when the LED goes out?
Right now I have set the ignition at the point, where the LED goes out.
I'm pretty sure the flashing is while running. It says while ignition on, rotate back and forth until LED comes on, then once that rotate clockwise until out. Then lock down. It says the standoffs, so they are just moving the module within the distributor. But I don't see why you couldn't move whole distributor.
So that is confusing because they say the LED "flashes" when on TDC. So to me that says it needs to be lit for TDC. But they are saying rotate until goes out.
And so does other brands.
Also they are saying clockwise which is correct for a nose cone Evo or Shovel setup because the rotor is rotating counterclockwise.
But don't the distributor shafts rotate clockwise??
Try going counterclockwise then locking down??

Quote
Next there’s the question on how to position the upper housing and module assembly onto the distributor base assembly. The instructions say that the shutter wheel openings should be at about the 11 o’clock and 7 o’clock positions. And the figures in the instructions show that the slots in the upper housing should be at 11 o’clock and 5 o’clock positions. Is this correct? I have installed it like that, but some people on various forums are saying that the instructions are incorrect, and that the upper housing should be flipped 180⁰, so that both the shutter wheel and the upper housing are positioned at 11 o’clock and 7 o’clock.
Could you enlighten me , as to which positions are correct?

11 and 7 in relation to the screw holes at 9 and 3, then once the upper housing is back on rotate until the window in wheel lines up with one of the slots in the aluminum housing.

You tape up the purple VOES wire?

Is the module inside numbered 35496 like in Figure 1 in the instructions?
There is some weird conflicting info in regards to that. The instructions for the 35496 has a setting 9 "race advance curves, single fire, kick start". But no mention if it in the instructions for the A557 Distributor which appears to use that module.

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FWIW, so you are aware and if you get it running. Looking at the timing tables in the instructions, since you don't have a VOES switch to pull the purple wire to ground, you are never going to have 35 degrees advance unless you select a race curve.
Lastly I know you said you tried a dual fire coil. But there is this weird tidbit of info on the troubleshooting sheet about the singlefire.  Who knows what that's about.
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Best of luck if you get it working.

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Shovel Head / Re: Any Keihin Butterfly Knowledge?
« Last post by JW113 on Today at 08:20:04 PM »
Dude. No one can dial in your bike over the internet. Start with a baseline, and tune it from there. Either do this the "hard" way and fiddle with it your self, or take it to a shop with a dyno and let them tune it. There is no magic pill to make your bike run perfect.

-JW
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Shovel Head / Re: Any Keihin Butterfly Knowledge?
« Last post by 96flhpi on Today at 07:10:08 PM »
Thanks for replies all but I was really hoping someone who has a non coughing butterfly on a similarly set up bike would chime in with what size jets worked for them so I can narrow down the range I need to buy.
10
AFR & Tuning Zone / Re: FuelPak Pro - what's your opinion?
« Last post by Hilly13 on Today at 07:04:07 PM »
The file is scrambled,  it's on bike but you can't read it
I don't understand how they could do that.
Could only have one file in the ecm and it would have to be a functioning calibration. ???
That's not quite right, with the screamin eagle software when you hit program it programs the ECM, once that's complete it then saves the calibration to the dongle, you can see the progress is shown on the computer screen, if the tuner pulls the cord in that procedure the file is then corrupted, can't pull the cal back out of the ECM and read or edit it with the screamin eagle software, Power Vision can I think, couldn't with TTS when I had that either from memory.
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