Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Milwaukee-Eight / Slip On Mufflers
« Last post by BURCH on Today at 05:24:15 PM »
Hello All,

Just picked up a 2019 RG special.

Which slip on muffler would be a good choice?

What can I search here HTT?

Thanks,

Burch
2
Twin Cam / Re: Recommendations on a performance quiet exhaust
« Last post by jm7480 on Today at 05:23:17 PM »
I have supertramp fat shots with 10 discs and they are not very loud
3
Twin Cam / Re: Ultima Rockers
« Last post by doctorevil on Today at 04:17:14 PM »
What every one is telling you is Ultima metallurgy is unpredictable and very poor. Not even suitable for a budget build.
4
Milwaukee-Eight / Re: M8 lifter tappet cuff bolt removal tips
« Last post by JMHD on Today at 03:27:08 PM »
When the M8 first came out the factory told us as a tech tip that when you work on the engine you should ride it first to get it hot to ease the removal of the loctited bolts. :cry:
5
General / Re: 2019 gear shift design fault.
« Last post by mrmike on Today at 01:35:42 PM »
On my bike, 2003 RK the bushing is a green plastic looking thing if I remember correctly, not bronze for sure.

Though Pingle makes this little cutie for $100. If your not up to drilling and tapping for a zirk.


Mike
6
Milwaukee-Eight / Re: M8 lifter tappet cuff bolt removal tips
« Last post by cmashark on Today at 01:31:37 PM »
I was thinking about starting the cam swap while the engine was hot.  Cut the pushrods and remove the lifter blocks/guides, then wait till it cools before moving on.  Iíve only done one M8 cam swap, so far, and didnít have any issues. I donít remember if I used blue or red locktite... probably red when I reassembled it.  Are the shops studying them or reusing the bolts?  Iíve always bought new bolts for the cam and crank when doing twin cams and the one M8.
7
Evo Sportster / Re: Solid pushrod end mating hydraulic tappet
« Last post by xlfan on Today at 01:25:53 PM »
Kind of odd looking Sportster 😊
8
Nobody ever experienced too tight threads @ bearing locknut? 
9
General / Re: fork fluid change 2012 ultra
« Last post by Maddo Snr on Today at 01:00:03 PM »
In my opinion a proper service includes replacing bushings and seals and inspecting the tubes for wear. The proper level of fork oil is important too. I don't see how you get that accuracy with a vacuum pump.

Yep, this ^^^

Different folks have different standards I guess. By the time you get the vac pump out and set it up, I can have the forks completely out of a RK.

An oil change and a decent fork service are two different things. I can't see the point of fresh oil when the lube-packing in the oil/dust seals is gone and is sucking new crud into your fresh oil. Also, the oil height becomes a lucky dip.

It's only a one day job, down and up. I don't get why you wouldn't do the job thoroughly.  :scratch: :nix:

Warning!: Ricks comment above refers to Cst viscosity NOT SAE oil 'weight'.

Many 5WT fork oils have higher Cst ratings than some 10WT fork oils.

Research your chosen oils' Cst rating...
10
Twin Cam / Re: Normal noise from primary after upgrades?
« Last post by rageglide on Today at 12:59:32 PM »
It's the Bandit clutch.  I had the exact same racket when I went to a Bandit.  I am using the latest SE compensator sprocket.  Initially I put in ATF and it was pretty horrendous.  Drained that and added a full qt of Belray Gearsaver 75W and it's back to normal and quiet.   
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10