rotor removal

[schrec]

Ok, I am having a real PITA time removing the rotor from my 99 twin cam.  I have the service manual and I have followed all the steps.  removed the primary cover and the clutch hub and the front sprocket.  I am down to pulling out the rotor so I can get to the stator, which i need to replace.  I have the old type rotor where you can remove it using a bent wire or allen wrenches as the manual suggests.  My problem is with the inner primary.  There are two, one at the top and one at the bottom, dips in the inner primary that the rotor is getting hung up on when I try to remove it.  These protrusions as I call them kind of look like a wave, just a swoop up for the bottom one, and that hits at about 4 oclock if you look at the rotor like a clock.  The one at the top is right at 12 oclock if you looked at it.  The rotor gets hung on these protrusions and will not come out.  It's looking like I need to remove the inner primary as well to get this rotor removed.  These bumps I have in my inner primary are not shown in the manual where they have a picture showing the primary all taken apart.  To remove the inner primary is only a few more bolts, maybe 10, so it;s not that big of a deal, my question is, what seals will need to be replaced.  I can see an O ring sealing off the front part of the inner primary to the motor, but what seals are there between the tranny and the back of the inner?  The diagram shows a lip seal and a bearing on the tranny shaft, will those need to be removed as well? 

I thought this was going to be a simple fix, boy was I WRONG!!!

Any help from the tech talkers would be appreciated.  I can get some pics and post them up later if that would help. 

[Mike52]

I can see an O ring sealing off the front part of the inner primary to the motor, but what seals are there between the tranny and the back of the inner?  The diagram shows a lip seal and a bearing on the tranny shaft, will those need to be removed as well?

Unless the '99 is different from my '01, which I doubt, you do not have to remove a bearing from the trans to get the inner primary off. There are only 2 seals on the back of the inner , on a '99 model I would change both of these while I had it apart. One would be the starter shaft seal, the other would be the quad seal on the tranny shaft, both are easy to replace. Another tip, if you take the inner off, you don't have to pull the starter completely off, simply remove the starter mounting bolts, let the starter sit where it's at while you do the inner primary. You will also have to remove the starter jack shaft, pay attention to the way the parts come off. Like you said, it's not that big of a deal to remove the inner since you are this far into it.

Mike

[ICANTD55]

on the back side of the inner there is an o-ring for the front. clean this area well when installing the new o-ring you may have to stretch it a little to get it to fit after you get it to fit in the grove use some rtv over it before you
re-install. at the rear of the inner you can probably leave alone unless you want to change out the bearing and seals.I put a dab of rtv around all the bolt holes on the back side. also a little rtv around the outside of the seals(starter ,Mainshaft). If you have it off you could run it by a local Indy and have them put in the bearing and seals if you have some mileage on your ride.
I can get mine out with the allen wrench trick with pliers on the tips of the allens but you have to give it a good tug my bike in an 03.
If you decide to change the bearing yourselve heat up the inner in the oven or grill first before you press the bearing in.
Rick

[ICANTD55]

I got to learn how to type with two fingers , mike beat me too it

[HIPPO]

I don't remember removing the inner primary on a 99 to change the rotor/stator.
Maybe just needs a little whack.

[HIPPO]

If you have a bike with a 45A rotor they can be hard to handle for someone not used to it, and may require some strenght. These have two threaded holes (as opposed to just two holes for a hook on the 38A) and it is best to use two long bolts to have something to grab. Do NOT stick your fingers between rotor and engine case.

[Scooter Trash]

When ever I do a stator job for a buddy or acquaintance, I usually get everything apart. Usually what happens is somebody looking over my shoulder watching pretty closely. When it comes time to pull the rotor, I will hand the Allen wrenches over to the sight see'er and let them have a go at! I usually get up like I need to get something and watch them try to get it off. It can be pretty comical to watch! You are right, you do not want to get a finger pinched in behind the rotor.................

Bagger

[CrazyRay]

I had the same problem with my '99. It looked to me like imperfections in the casting preventing the rotor from coming off. I used a grinding bit on my drill and files to grind those "humps" down and get the rotor out without removing the inner primary. Hope this helps.

Ray

P.S. that was approx. 40,000 miles ago. no problems with it whatsoever.

[schrec]

well according to the instructionsyou shouldn't have to remove the inner primary.  I have the type of rotor that can be removed with the allen wrenches, just two unthreaded holes.  There are two spots on the inner that look like an upside down V that are catching the rotor when I try and pull it out.  I pulled on that thing hard enough to move the bike and jackstand towards me about an inch, so I am pretty sure the rotor is binding up on these two protrusions.  I will take some pictures tonight and post them up so you all can see what I am talking about.  

[schrec]

Hal-lay-lou-ya!  Crazy Ray is seeing the same things that I am.  I kind of thought it might be a casting imperfaction that did not get ground off.  I think my bike was built in the second run of the 99 model year, and with it being a new motor, I can see that happening.  I thought about taking a file to them, but wasn't sure if I wanted to get any metal shavings in there.  So my choices are grind it down, or remove the inner primary as well. 

Thanks for backing me up there Ray. 

[CrazyRay]

I just set the bike down on the kickstand so it could drain and sprayed carb cleaner in there thoroughly to rinse all the shavings out. No problems. Glad to have helped.

Ray

[schrec]

Hey Crazy Ray, what part of the metroplex are you located?

[motorplex88]

Went through the same thing on 99 Classic. Had guys tell me no need to pull the inner primary, so I tear er down and wrestle with it a bit before using a dremel to clearance the spots your speaking of. When I got it off I found I broke a magnet off the rotor. Wish I would have went with my instict to just pull the inner primary and be done with it. Not that big a deal. Those magnets are pretty strong and things get pretty grabby quick. Ended up pulling the inner anyways. Fabd up an install tool like the shop book shows to make sure I did'nt tear up my NEW$$$$ rotor. Good luck.

[hotroadking]

If you are going to grind you might want to take the inner primary cover off.

Get some black silicone to put around the bolt holes, black silicone is used where oil is present.

You should change out the main shaft seal and starter jackshaft seal, no big deal, I put then new seals in the freezer in the garage, then take apart the primary, pull out the old seals, clean them and then install the frozen seals one at a time, cold seals almost drop in, use a socket and mallet to tap them in, easy stuff level 1 work.

It also makes it easier to get that rotor back on, once the magnetic fields catch it can snap that rotor right out of your hands,

I have let friends pull them off too, it's some funny stuff.. LOL

[Scooter Trash]

Last fall, I did my brother's 1999 FLHT inner primary removal. It leaked primary pretty bad from behind the clutch. This bike did not exhibit an obstruction as described for removing the rotor. Pulling the rotor was a straight forward proposition.

[CrazyRay]

Hey schrec I'm in the Plano area most of the time. When I changed my stator I just ground the clearance needed rinsed it good and put it back together, no problems. Didn't ever remove the inner primary. Good point from metroplex88 though be careful with the rotor.

[smoserx1]

I just replaced the stator on my 99 this weekend and experienced exactly the same thing.  Ended up removing the inner primary as well.  When I had it off I confirmed the rotor would not go through.  I figured I would need to remove about 1/16 of an inch or more from those ridges where the rotor was hitting.  If you are changing the seals in a 99, note the jackshaft seal has changed.  The new seal has a smaller diameter "protrusion" that needs to be installed so it is pointing to the left of the motorcycle, toward the oil side of the inner primary and AWAY from the starter.  If it is installed backwards, the protrusion can interfere with the jackshaft travel, possibly keeping the solenoid from making electrical contact so the bike won't start.  I learned this the hard way.

[a2wheeler]

If you end up taking the inner primary off. Also change the shifter shaft seal in the tranny. That darn thing needs replacing regularly.

[FSG]

save those fingers 

[Billy]

A steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller works well to remove and reinstall the rotors, especially the 45 amp job.

My fingers hurt just reading this thread. 

[smoserx1]

Folks, thanks for all the tips and illustrations about the puller, but this is NOT what the original poster was talking about.  His primary has casting ridges that should have been machined off at the factory but were not, and that rotor is not going to come through the inner primary case no matter what type of tool is used.  This has nothing to do with the rotor being a 45 amp unit and requiring the puller.

[L-]

You know the inner was installed first and then the rotor.  So, it has to come off that way. I bent a piece of brass welding rod.  One continous piece and bent so it has legs and I have a handle to pull them.

[FSG]

Folks, thanks for all the tips and illustrations about the puller, but this is NOT what the original poster was talking about.  His primary has casting ridges that should have been machined off at the factory but were not, and that rotor is not going to come through the inner primary case no matter what type of tool is used.  This has nothing to do with the rotor being a 45 amp unit and requiring the puller.

There's no need to post any thanks, schrec asked the question and his 2nd last line reads "Any help from the tech talkers would be appreciated" which IMO is what he got.

[ICANTD55]

Thanks for that pic Sirgarfield now I can make one for down the road