Most torque-agressive M8 plug/play cam?

[$tonecold]

If you go on GMR Performance's vendor page he has posted the overlaid graph of all the cams we tested. You can see there how the cams compare to each other in WOT dyno runs. We went with the stock header decatted and an aftermarket air cleaner in an attempt to keep it simple and inexpensive so someone wanting to do a cam can see that it can be done reasonably. The mufflers were the stock cans with Fullsac 2" cores. I liked all of the cams, as said not a big difference. The TTS 100 was a nice cam that made torque from the start. Had I not already purchased three cams I would have gone with it. I ended up with the RS468, it was the last one tested and we were beat. Consequently, it was also the torque leader.

[1FSTRK]

If you go on GMR Performance's vendor page he has posted the overlaid graph of all the cams we tested. You can see there how the cams compare to each other in WOT dyno runs. We went with the stock header decatted and an aftermarket air cleaner in an attempt to keep it simple and inexpensive so someone wanting to do a cam can see that it can be done reasonably. The mufflers were the stock cans with Fullsac 2" cores. I liked all of the cams, as said not a big difference. The TTS 100 was a nice cam that made torque from the start. Had I not already purchased three cams I would have gone with it. I ended up with the RS468, it was the last one tested and we were beat. Consequently, it was also the torque leader.

Welcome to HTT
You sure know how to make a first post.
Thanks for sharing with us the results of all the hard work you guys did with your testing.
The more data we have to look at and compare the better our conclusions will be on these new engines.

[2017FLHTK]

We went with the stock header decatted and an aftermarket air cleaner in an attempt to keep it simple and inexpensive so someone wanting to do a cam can see that it can be done reasonably. The mufflers were the stock cans with Fullsac 2" cores.

$tonecold, did you decatt the stock header yourself?  Is it possible to do so without cutting / welding? Is it something the average guy can do in his garage for the M8 factory header?

[PoorUB]

$tonecold, did you decatt the stock header yourself?  Is it possible to do so without cutting / welding? Is it something the average guy can do in his garage for the M8 factory header?

To do it right you need to cut apart the header, clean out all the cat material and weld it back up. I have heard of guys just drilling and digging out what they can through the outlet of the header, but I think it is a pretty poor way to do it. I have gutted a couple 2010-2016 headers. I cut then in half, front to rear with a sawzall. Some guys use a chap saw but a sawzall cuts a 1/16" kerf where a chop saw cuts about 1/4"kerf. I also clean out all the cat material. I have seen guys just rip out the bulk of it and leave some around the edges. I get in there with a die grinder and stone and get it down to bare metal.

[DTTJGlide]

It can be done without cutting, it's much easier on the M8 touring pipe because the outlet pipe diameter is 2.5" & the cat is located closer to the end of the pipe. It takes a little doing, but can be done that way & I'd say you get 99% of the material out, there might be a few very thin little slivers attached the I.D. of the pipe. If you intend to cut a M8 pipe mark it well because the core section is round.

[PoorUB]

I spend about one hour with a die grinder cleaning out those extra slivers. I realize most of the excess crap will blow out, but I sure feel better cleaning the inside of the pipe. I don't like the idea of anything floating around in the pipe.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

That RS 468 sure seems to pack one hellava wallop on a 117".
140-145 ft/lbs all in by 3500.