spewing oil after lay-up... and how to find my old posts?

Started by 1340evo, May 13, 2018, 10:12:57 AM

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1340evo

Sure I posted on this before, but can't find how to find them :)

Hogley has been laid up over winter, but got her started today and she through about 1/2 pint of oil straight out the breather!... had this before after lay-up so was ready with a catch tray.....  I think you have to get a new ball, seat the old one and replace etc...

Can anyone offer advise on the please... cheers.. :)

Burnout

It's called sumping, it is normal after long term storage.

Oil seeps past the pump and fills up the motor.

This is why you should run the motor before topping off the oil level, because it will be over full if the motor has sumped.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

1340evo

Hi Burnout.. thanks for that... but can you stop it doing it?... thought I'd read somewhere you needed to buy a new ball bearing for the pump... tap the old on or new one to bed, then replace it with the other?... not sure if this is correct or where the BB lives exactly.

BTW... bought a GS LC... just been out again on it.. they are fantastic bikes... its amazing how many people have GS's and HD's :)

jsachs1

Quote from: 1340evo on May 13, 2018, 01:08:23 PM
Hi Burnout.. thanks for that... but can you stop it doing it?... thought I'd read somewhere you needed to buy a new ball bearing for the pump... tap the old on or new one to bed, then replace it with the other?... not sure if this is correct or where the BB lives exactly.

BTW... bought a GS LC... just been out again on it.. they are fantastic bikes... its amazing how many people have GS's and HD's :)
The inner most plug on the top of the oil pump(left top) usually under the vent fitting.
Take out the plug or large screwdriver head plug. Remove the spring, and use a magnet to remove the ball. Inspect the ball for flaws. Clean the seat in the pump, and inspect. If all good and clean, reassemble, and you should be good to go.
John

1340evo

Thanks John

Thats great info.. will have a look.. Do you agree with the re-seating method of a quick tap.. then fit a new ball?...
Or just inspect and replace....
may be worth a new spring (if this acts on the ball?).. do these become weak?


Burnout

The check balls don't usually leak.

Check ball sealing problems are usually due to debris.

Clean your oil tank or fix your motor if something is coming apart.

If it only happens once a year after winter storage its not broke.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

1340evo

I think it does it after about 4-6 weeks.. measured the amount that came out.. more like 1 pint!....

BKACHE

I have also heard of folks using a needle nose vice grip with short sections of oil lines on the noses to cut off the earl flow to the oil pump during long lay ups. Of course inspect the hose after the kink.
Dan

Hossamania

As far as finding old posts, you can do a search for some key words, or go to your profile and find the line listing posts from this user.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

1340evo

if it comes to it, I can put a tap in it (just dont forget to turn it back on LOL)

but why do they do it.... and whats the fix?

FSG

debris under the ball can provide a leak path, it doesn't take much

a quick tap and a new ball .................  well it's been done and works, sometimes ............... there's better methods

take the oil pump off and dismantle
use the end of an older pushrod and some lapping paste to lap in the ball seat in the pump
wash throughly
reassemble pump with new ball and re install

you should be good to go

1340evo

sounds good.. so its the ball seat where its leaking past?

Ok.. I'll get on with that... Cheers

Burnout

I have heard many drunken campfire stories about lapping paste and a pushrod, however.

There is no way to get all the lapping paste out of your oil pump, I certainly don't want lapping paste getting pumped through MY motor.
Additionally any lapping grit that gets embedded in the soft aluminum of the ball seat will be the same as debris and could cause sealing issues.
If it is debris that is causing a problem with the check ball, you usually have bigger problems (something is coming apart).

Sumping during storage is part of the HD adventure, put a cookie sheet under the bike for your spring startup.
Or ride your bike often, don't just start it up in the shed either, that is worse for it.

Sumping is why the MoCo moved the oil tank down under the trans on the Twin Cams, with the oil tank lower than the pump oil does not seep back into the motor.
The down side of this is that the oil does not get cooled well under the bike and next to hot stuff.
I am convinced Oil overheating is the cause of most of the Twin Cam cam chest problems.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

1340evo

no debris in there.. so it's not falling in bits... must just be the seat.. will take a look.. may have a small mark in it or something... So it's the return line that leaks back is it?... what about spring strength.. could it be weak?

BKACHE

I think the return line dumps the return oil up on top inside the earl tank. So no pressure is built up to flood back into the engine. So the main feed line is the culprit. It pushes past the feed and return gears in the pump and pushes on the check ball. If any goop/crud/buildup/stuff allows the pressure to push back you will get earl in the crankcase. My '78 fxs did it and my '82 (not this year) did it. Each time just the first time of the year and the hot earl cleaned up the check ball by the second go around. I did take the top and spring off and ever so lightly tapped on the ball to seat it a bit better.   
Dan

1340evo

so this is the ball inside the top caps, LHS when looking forward (as sugested above) ??

BKACHE

As I remember it is the left of the 2. I was looking for an exploded view (usually J&P cycles has good info) but could not find it. One or the other anyway. Taking off the top caps are a pain sometimes. I finally took a 6 sided cold chisel and flattened the blade ground down the sides so the 'blade' just fits in the slot. Then use a crescent wrench on the side of the chisel to crack it loose. The cap nut on the engine has an oil screen that should be cleaned every now and then too.
 
Dan

1340evo

ok.. great... will take a look when I get time... cheers

Burnout

Don't put a stiffer spring on the check ball. It may not even be the check ball that is leaking.
That spring is very light on purpose, it only needs to be strong enough to open the oil pressure switch.
Speaking of oil pressure switches, don't substitute a car switch because they have a higher set pressure than a HD unit.

In the oil pump body between the two sections there is a seal which can let oil into the motor via the return side if it is leaking.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

1340evo

oil pressure appears okay.. the light goes straight off.. and will stay off when stopped for a tad...

but may be worth a check if its coming off... where is it and what does it look like.. how do you check it / fit it?

guess thats all can be causing it... one of the two?

david lee

i had the same problem on my 81 fx and for some reason fixed itself

1340evo

lucky you... just looked at the bike... there is one tall cap (Outside)... and a shorter one (inside)... so its the short one where the  spring / ball lives... there is a tapping and a pipe right above this but guess it will come out.... will have to take a look this weekend

SixShooter14

Quote from: david lee on May 16, 2018, 02:50:59 PM
i had the same problem on my 81 fx and for some reason fixed itself
I hear the fix for this is to ride it more often... :hyst: :potstir:

sorry OP, someone had to say it.

My '92 has this problem every year or 2. It will puke a nice puddle on the ground then be good....
'97 Road King, Rinehart True Dual, HSR42, 10:1, EVL3010, 2000i

Ohio HD

Quote from: FSG on May 15, 2018, 03:12:15 PM
debris under the ball can provide a leak path, it doesn't take much

a quick tap and a new ball .................  well it's been done and works, sometimes ............... there's better methods

take the oil pump off and dismantle
use the end of an older pushrod and some lapping paste to lap in the ball seat in the pump
wash throughly
reassemble pump with new ball and re install

you should be good to go


What he said.

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=53006.msg558966#msg558966


hogpipes1

Simple fix , change your oil  after last ride  if it's about time . put a note on gas tank  NO OIL . put away for winter. Spring  fresh oil . Might be some blow off  but nothing  like before.
OR i put a longer  hose  into the end of  the breather  hose , higher than the  seat . After the pump is done filling the tank from the eng and the hose , its back to normal  with the temp hose off. i do this if not changing oil before i put away.   my 85 fxrt, & 2000 sporty both do it.