new topic?

[garyajaz]

hey guys, been out and about, a lot.
I notice no new post since may.

well here is one.
sporty running great with S&S super carb given to me by JW113.
\ thanks again
have been starting easier cause of acel pump (ol S&S L series removed had none)
and valveing of comp releases. it released too much compression on slow high compression kicks

was riding till it got over 90..its 114 today. I am 70 and aint gonna kick nothing but the dog (lol, he gets pets not kicks) till winter.

only problem is I going through oil.  lots of oil.
it dosent smoke other than sumping if sit long time. that clears up.
I did a comp test after my foot told me something wrong.
its front cylinder has 40 less psi.
oops.
no noises, still runs/pulls very hard once up to temp and piston expands some.
I did set up forged trw pistons loose 30 years ago for racing.

will pull it down and measure this winter.
finding pistons gonna be fun. its bored 80 over now so will also need cylinders and find a artist to weld in the oil return holes cause piston top crosses them.
big stroker. 
last time he used a kiln to pre heat cast iron, welded, put back in kiln. cooled.
then I die grinded off some weld and bored it.
have outside return lines.

like they say...never ending once away from stock.

keep the old iron running guys.

[nibroc]

JE pistons will probably want you to buy a dozen but can make 'em---I decided over 20 years ago to modify a 75 sporty motor because of that---kept my s&s btm end though---I needed 3 1/4" plus .040 and NO ONE had any

[Ohio HD]

Randy Torgeson at Hyperformance I'm sure can set your cylinders up, relocate the oil drain. As well Jim at Mega-Flo can do it. He just went through a Sporty building a stroker. He used brass to fill the oil return, as I think most were done this way.

The link is to FB, so if you don't have an account, you won't see it.

Mega-Flo Link

Added: I just reread your post, so you only need the oil return plugged then.   

[Chippitt68]

👍 Jim at megaflo can hook you up.
724-368-3955

[garyajaz]

thanks for all the machine shop suggestions.
but I handle my boring and the outside oilers been in many years.
(I went from head to crank case)
just need some 1000 1970's cyls I can bore to what ever size I find pistons for.
trw would be nice.
I do have old 40 over trw/S&S stroker set that looks good and can be glass beaded.
finding rings would be fun.
I really need some cylinders to start. then I can measure and figure out stoker pistons for them.

if I remember right a few years were limited to bore over size. like to 30 thou or some such.
1975-77 comes to mind.
like I said my stock 1974 holes are +80 and forged slugs been wobbling about in there for years.

if I could find a bored 10 or none over stock cylinders, I could bore to the +40 I saved.
again rings.

but mostly looking for parts.
I figure I built it in the first place I can build it again.

Ohio, brass huh?
sounds easier and cooler than the way we did it.
hell I was even thinking  bevel the hole so wont catch rings and fill with j.b. weld from top a few inches.
just to block oil from getting on top of pistons.

[Ohio HD]

Gary we had always used brazing rod to fill the hole up. Then as you said, take it down with a die grinder, then bore the cylinders. Here's also a thought, what about relining your cylinders, and the drain can be just non existent.

[jimlibo]

well if it's outside oil return, from heads to crankcases, then you won't have to block off anything in the cylinders in the way if oil return holes. Just do it up in the heads in the valve spring pockets. I'd think that's already been done.  I doubt very seriously that "the tops" of your pistons are going past the oem oil returns, only the oil rings do on strokes up to 4 13/16" and even slightly exceeding that. Compression rings won't. You just have to find some cylinders and notch the spigots for conrod clearance then and do your bore work or as OHIO said, check into sleeving what you have. A really good suggestion.

[garyajaz]

have a 20 over set jugs in hand.
no broke fins.
not  much taper even.
so have cylinders can bore to what I can find...lol

even if return oil hole is plugged at top, I would like the hole to be filled in for ring contact reasons.
at the very least  a major angle like two stroke ports.
but then, two stroke rings are pinned and don't rotate.
I thinking my luck a ring end gap would rotate right at that hole and no fun could ensue..

S&S has new piston sets in catalogue. (3700 series)
must be used on something else also.

sticker shock ensued. $&$

will check out my +.40 set out in storage.
glass bead, inspect and get new rings.
sounds good enough for a bike ridden maybe 400 miles in the winter here in AZ.