S&S M8 cam plate & pump installation how-to

[Jamie Long]

For those interested, last week we installed one of the new M8 cam plate & oil pump kits from S&S Cycle in a 2017 Road Glide. We took plenty of pictures and documenting the install. To get started we will post some images of the components we are working with. This is the S&S oil pump & cam plate for 2017-up Oil Cooled M8 engines, part # 310-0998.

For reference here are links to the complete S&S instructions:
Cam plate https://assetcloud.roccommerce.net/files/_sscycle/5/8/3/510-0582-cam-support-plate-for-m8.pdf
Oil pump https://assetcloud.roccommerce.net/files/_sscycle/10/2/10/510-0597-oil-pumps-for-m8.pdf

Cam plate, assembly lube, and hydraulic tensioner block off plate (for use with gear drive cam)


Oil pump, assembly lube, orings, & hardware


In typical S&S fashion the kit includes comprehensive instructions as well as a complete breakdown of the components including part numbers

[Jamie Long]

Here are some images of the cam plate

front side of cam plate, note numbers for bolt install & torque sequence


back side of cam plate


note removeable plugs which allow cleaning of plate


cam plate shown with replaceable "wear plate" in place

[Jamie Long]

disassembled oil pump, note cleanable/replacable screen


oil pump, note pressure relief valve

[Jamie Long]

In preparation for the oil pump & cam plate we've removed the exhaust system and so we have a little extra room the air cleaner snorkel on this bike


Cam cover removed, engine turned to TDC and dots aligned


Cam chain tensioner, cam chain & sprockets removed

[Jamie Long]

Stock cam plate & pump removed. Note cam, lifters & pushrods are in place. You do not need to remove them, this bike already has an upgraded cam bearing & components.




S&S oil pump in place, be sure to replace oring




Oil pump wear plate in place

[Jamie Long]

another picture of the cam plate with the wear plate in place. This plate is replaceable in the unfortuate event there is damage from a component failure. The cam plate also has removable plugs for cleaning and a cleanable/replaceable oil screen.




cam plate in engine. Note numbers for torque sequence.





Install cam sprockets, chain, & tensioner. Make sure cam is timed properly. Oil pump is aligned using the same procedure as twin cam.

[les]

Very educational.  Thanks.

So, am I to imply from this that when changing the cam in an M8, you don't need to remove the rockers?  You can just hold the lifters up with your fingers, slide the new cam out, slide the new on in, and put the cam plate back on?

Another question.  Is it possible to remove the lifters from the bottom on an M8?

[Jamie Long]

Very educational.  Thanks.

So, am I to imply from this that when changing the cam in an M8, you don't need to remove the rockers?  You can just hold the lifters up with your fingers, slide the new cam out, slide the new on in, and put the cam plate back on?

Another question.  Is it possible to remove the lifters from the bottom on an M8?

Rockers do not need to be removed, lifters can drop from the bottom.

[Buglet]

    Thanks for posting it Jamie, nice job. 

[les]

Very educational.  Thanks.

So, am I to imply from this that when changing the cam in an M8, you don't need to remove the rockers?  You can just hold the lifters up with your fingers, slide the new cam out, slide the new on in, and put the cam plate back on?

Another question.  Is it possible to remove the lifters from the bottom on an M8?

Rockers do not need to be removed, lifters can drop from the bottom.

Excellent, that is one design improvement from H-D.  Makes cam chest work much faster.

So, I'm thinking that during a cam upgrade:
- The pushrod tubes could be collapsed and clips inserted to hold the pushrods up
- The lifters dropped out of the bottom after removing cam plate and cam
- Then the inner cam bearing tool could do it's job to do an R&R of the inner cam bearing
- Put the lifters back in from the bottom
- Slide the new cam into the inner cam bearing
- Finish up the job

Sounds too easy, so I must be missing something.

[bigcraig]

Sounds like you don't even need adjustable pushrods and cover tubes if you plan on doing a cam upgrade while installing the new pump and cam plate.

[Hossamania]

Somehow you need to release the tension on the pushrods and lifters to r&r the cam.
The lifter blocks don't need to be removed to replace the lifters, but I'm assuming the rockers need removal to pull the cam.
Maybe I'm missing something.

[Jamie Long]

Excellent, that is one design improvement from H-D.  Makes cam chest work much faster.

So, I'm thinking that during a cam upgrade:
- The pushrod tubes could be collapsed and clips inserted to hold the pushrods up
- The lifters dropped out of the bottom after removing cam plate and cam
- Then the inner cam bearing tool could do it's job to do an R&R of the inner cam bearing
- Put the lifters back in from the bottom
- Slide the new cam into the inner cam bearing
- Finish up the job

Sounds too easy, so I must be missing something.

My earlier comments & info were related to the cam plate swap, not changing out the cam. If you are changing the cam you will either need to cut the pushrods or remove them thru the top of the motor which involves rocker disassembly. We use adjustable pushrods with cam swaps 100% of the time as we are using cam's with varying base circles than stock, lifters with different plunger travel etc..

[les]

Ok, thanks.

[88b]

That plate and pump look quality gear

[mike jesse]

Jamie, does the locking tool from the TC work on the M8?