Cam chest upgrade

[FTBY55]

Looking for some opinions please.
I am considering upgrading the cam chest on my '02 Ultra and was wondering if going to hydraulic or gear drive would be better. Was seriously considering the S&S gear drive and cam upgrade and if done would it be best to stay with stock pushrods or go to adjustables. Top end will be opened up to install RockOuts while lifters and cam are replaced.

Thanks in advance.

[86fxwg]

02 crank I'd feel good about gear drive.
As long as finance's are good now, go with adjustable pushrods since apart or reassemble & save the coin.Replace down the road when cam chest gets opened again.

86

[tdrglide]

It all depends....
Why do you think it needs an upgrade. What are you expecting.
Are you doing the work your self or having a shop do the work.
Is motor still stock.
Are you changing cams. If so, to what.

[tdrglide]

I see you are changing cams. Some cams may require adjustable push rods because of different base circles. I like them anyways.

[itsafatboy]

check ebay , there is a set of ss570 with all gears for 379.00 ,  also a ss509g cam with all gears for 525.00 , that was just from searching SS gear drive, im sure there is more deals , 

[Ohio HD]

First step before buying "ANY PARTS" is put a dial indicator on the crank to insure the pinion side run out is 0.003" or less. If it isn't then no gear drive.

[No Cents]

First step before buying "ANY PARTS" is put a dial indicator on the crank to insure the pinion side run out is 0.003" or less. If it isn't then no gear drive.

   ^ ^ ^
...what Brian said!

[PoorUB]

 

Gears don't like crankshaft run out where the newer hydraulic tensioners live well with some run out.

[FTBY55]

Thanks all, was considering the S&S 509 if runout is good. Won't purchase until I know for sure first. Otherwise I will go with the hydraulic upgrade. As I said, top will be opened to install rockouts so was wondering if staying with stock pushrods would be better. No adjustment to worry about.

[No Cents]

   to be able to use the factory p/rods over...it's all about the size of the base circles on the cams your wanting to use. You need them to be close in size to the stock cams base circle.
   get yourself a set of Smith Brothers adjustable p/rods and your golden. I've ran a set of them for many years...and they will probably last me for the life of the engine they are in...and then some.


  added later:
while you have your rocker supports out...I'd drill the drain holes out in them to .125"...and make sure it has the stamped breathers in there.

[FSG]

unless you're building a fire breathing beast forget gear drive even if the runout is ZERO /- zero

since the hydraulic upgrade has been available that is the way to go

[FTBY55]

No Cents said:
  added later:
while you have your rocker supports out...I'd drill the drain holes out in them to .125"...and make sure it has the stamped breathers in there.
[/quote]

Thanks, had new breathers installed a few months back when I had the charging system upgraded to three phase system.

[safetyfifth]

Another option, if run out is good of course. Cyco shoes and andrews tw21 cams. That setup has done me well for over 40k miles on my bagger.

I'd say if you are going to go in for cams might as well 95 or 98 the motor and really get some power!

[tdrglide]

  what he said. More than that, it's a slippery slope. 

[Trev T]

the late model (07-16) cam plate assembly with a set of Andrews N cams is the most reliable and cost-effective way to upgrade. remember your .510 limit on lift unless the springs are changed. have never heard of an issue or regret with those that have gone this route.

[FTBY55]

If I decide to upgrade to 100" using the S&S jugs and pistons do I have to do any head work or will stock heads suffice?

[Hossamania]

You don't have to do headwork, but you'll never regret spending the money if you do. You will leave horsepower on the table if you don't, and you're spending money for a horsepower upgrade by going big bore, which then changes your cam choices either way. Remember that slippery slope that was mentioned?
Start with a budget, be realistic. Then decide what you really want to do in the end. Then, make a real plan with real expected results. Doing improvements in steps increases the price and lowers the results. Start with the end product, and work toward that from the beginning.
And no matter what, include money for a proper tune!!

[Hossamania]

See how fast it goes from a $300 tensioner upgrade to a $2000 or more horsepower chase?

[Ohio HD]

I'd spend the S&S cylinder money on boring your cylinders for 95" and then doing mild head work, and set the compression for the cam you use. Better results than just bigger bore.

[jrgreene1968]

See how fast it goes from a $300 tensioner upgrade to a $2000 or more horsepower chase?

No kidding!! I started out going to fix a leaking oring, but decided while I had it apart, I'd do this and that. Then that 1.00 oring ended up costing me $2500 

[Hossamania]

See how fast it goes from a $300 tensioner upgrade to a $2000 or more horsepower chase?

No kidding!! I started out going to fix a leaking oring, but decided while I had it apart, I'd do this and that. Then that 1.00 oring ended up costing me $2500 

I walked in and said "I can't beat everybody, but I have to beat my friends." That cost me almost 4 grand.
Worth every penny!!

[Barrett]

I was just going 103", new cams and a 1.9 I valve.
Checking the runout cost me about $12,000..

[Scotty]

I will say one thing for geared cams though, they don't have any maintenance if installed correctly.
We put a set in a 2001 Road King in 2003 and it has done over 140,000 kms since then with lifters changed once when one was a bit slow pumping up.
The stock exhaust on it has been welded more times than I can remember and the last time he replaced the front pipe around 2 years ago he pulled the cam cover just a for a look and he said it still looked like the day we put it in.
Costly though but then not really if you plan on keeping the bike and don't want to worry about the cam chest to much.

[PoorUB]

I would  expect the newer hydraulic tensioners  to last 100,000 miles or more.

[Scotty]

I would  expect the newer hydraulic tensioners  to last 100,000 miles or more.

I agree the 07 up hydraulic system is a no brainer retro fitting into the 99 up twin cams as they have proven to be a good system I was just pointing out the geared cams do have the same level of confidence especially on the 99-02 cranks which were generally very good.