Knocking in primary - Distinctive - I don't think it is common neutral rattle

[r0de_runr]

https://youtu.be/hFniE2dRjC8

This is my 2014 Limited, stock motor, Ness Big Sucker, V&H FP3 and ProPipe.
~31,000 miles. That German LiquiMoly  10W60 oil
HD Formula Plus in the Primary - 38oz +/-; - no trouble finding neutral.
Tranny has Bel-Ray Big Twin Transmission Oil    96900-BT1QB
Engine uses no oil, does not bleed out the A/C, has no lifter noise.
Under ESP I'm on my third water pump (first one of the new design); Had brake perch/front brake light switch fixed, throttle TBW replaced; Front shifter shaft and linkage replaced.  Everything has been rock solid, very happy with performance.

I've had the bike since 4,000 miles, I do not remember when the knocking started, but it was not there when I got the bike, came on slowly I think.
Knocking is most noticeable when engine and primary are fully heat soaked (today at 91 ambient after 3 hour ride). Bike in neutral, and IETMS kicks in. Clutch in or out doesn't seem to make any difference.

My buddies 2012, my 2012 and 2013 all had the common neutral rattle that went away with miles and switching to a good synth tranny fluid like Mobil1 or belrey.

I'm getting ready to drop this off at the dealer under ESP, but I want to be armed with knowledge so they don't give me the run around - I'll add my dealer has been good to work with so far.

Your help appreciated.

Greg

[kd]

Sounds like a compensator knock.  The later model '14's started to get the newer version with a lube tray to extend the life.  It was also able to be shimmed to the sweet spot.  You may not have one.  Can you make it do it by lugging it on take off or at low speeds? 

[rbabos]

Sounds like the auto chain tensioner. One click too tight. This is most evident on a hot engine and primary if the idle isn't really smooth. Cold, you will never hear this, as the chain tension is looser and the shoe of the tensioner won't quite be tapping the stop from chain whip . As the primary heats up the distance between the bottom of the shoe and block reduce and the natural chain whip from spastic idle will make the shoe smack the stop. The comp sound if bad and the shoe tapping almost sound exactly the same.
Ron

[1workinman]

Sounds like a compensator knock.  The later model '14's started to get the newer version with a lube tray to extend the life.  It was also able to be shimmed to the sweet spot.  You may not have one.  Can you make it do it by lugging it on take off or at low speeds?

KD I just pull down the primary and inspect the compensator and auto tensioner . I believe the compensator is just a maintenance item an just replace it ever so often . I have the oiling try in mine and tacked welded the auto tensioner on one of my bikes and I going to do the same to the other as soon as I get the TSM installed on my Street Glide . I used the measure ment that Ray and others have posted on the Street Glide a little while back . I installed new compensator , new billet basket , new bandit hub . New tensioner that was set measured and removed and tacked welded .  ;Took it to Colorado and rode it . very quiet now and no problems . When I removed the assembly to do the install of the new parts the chain was very tight . That was enough for me . Going to do the Road Glide the same way on the auto tensioner , Tack weld it

[Hossamania]

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