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early compensator question

Started by hogmandon, October 31, 2019, 09:07:41 AM

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hogmandon

October 31, 2019, 09:07:41 AM Last Edit: October 31, 2019, 10:06:52 AM by hogmandon
Have been chasing a kick back on start up for quite awhile on my 06 RG. Replaced starter with spyke super torque. new S&S premium lifters with travel limiters, heavy duty ring and pinion gears, new compensator and last year pulled heads and installed comp releases and new battery and heavy duty cables. I have retarded spark at start up and replaced starter relay . What has got me really confused is when I was doing a compression test it kicked back. So now I am looking at the starter switch on the handle bar or compensator.
Before I change the switch I remember reading about either cutting the comp nut or shimming the spring. I have tried the search but couldn't find the post. How do I determine if the this needs to be done. Have never had a problem with the comp on this engine in 140,000m.
Reason I changed compensator was spring broke on original one.
CCP is 210  at 10.8 to 1   107 all bore
Thanks for any ideas

hogmandon

I will ask another way. Have there ever been kick back problems with the early 06 compensators

FSG

QuoteReason I changed compensator was spring broke on original one.

a spring broke ? 

Pirsch Fire Wagon

Yes, Kickback when warm is an indication of Compensator Failure on 07 and up.

On an 06? That's interesting. The Spring Pack "may be weakening". But, with reasonable Compression I doubt it. How about the Starter Clutch? Have you check the Torque on the Bolt? Seen them loosen a dozen times. Worth a check.
Tom

hogmandon

Compensator spring looks like a stack of diaphragm springs and it collapsed. Nut has come loose in the past cured with a lot of red lock tight. I have a call into Spyke about a clutch. They have been great people to work with.

fbn ent

I had a bookmark with FSG's set up but his link seems to have disappeared into thin air.  :scratch:
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

FSG

QuoteCompensator spring looks like a stack of diaphragm springs and it collapsed. Nut has come loose in the past cured with a lot of red lock tight.

Comp Spring Packs DO go weak over time, but collapsed ???

Yes there are 4 Belleville Washers (coned-disc spring) in a stock comp, there are crimps in the comp cover to stop the springs/washers falling out when the comp is removed, the crimps do not and are not required to hold the springs/washers together tight and if the comp is removed and shaken then the springs/washers can rattle around. 

before pouring on the Red Loctite did you check if the nut was bottoming out on the crank thread ?

It is highly recommended IMO to cut 50 thou off the end of a comp nut





FSG

Quote from: fbn ent on November 01, 2019, 06:29:54 AM
I had a bookmark with FSG's set up but his link seems to have disappeared into thin air.  :scratch:

this one ?  https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,73290.msg

OR




fbn ent

'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

smoserx1

QuoteWhat has got me really confused is when I was doing a compression test it kicked back.

Lots of folks confuse the grinding sound of a failed starter clutch with kickback, but they are not the same.  Kickback is when the engine fires on the upstroke and actually spins the motor in reverse,  That is not possible doing a compression test as both plugs are removed (should be anyway).  Try replacing the starter clutch, it solved all my grinding problem.

tbird

Same here, replaced starter drive[clutch]. Everything good.