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Oil leak

Started by Sunny Jim, November 21, 2019, 04:32:25 AM

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Sunny Jim

I have developed an oil leak over a period of time after replacing head gasket and RE assembling motor. I figured it was coming from O'rings in front head oil lines , but it appears to be coming from head gasket , until it gets really hot. If I let it idle to above 300*F , the leak appears to go away.
Would you retension the head OR replace head gasket?
Thanks!

rigidthumper

Did you use new head bolts when you reassembled? There have been numerous reports of re-used head bolts breaking.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Sunny Jim

Used SS head bolts. Followed the correct procedure as always!

les

How much would it cost you to crack loose and re-torque the head bolts?

Sunny Jim

Cometic gasket - I think I will re tension it.

No Cents

    just my opinion here...but if you have an oil leak coming thru a Cometic MLS head gasket re-torqueing it usually won't fix the leak. Once oil is introduced between the layers of the MLS gasket I consider them a trash can item and replace the head gasket. 
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

Jaycee1964

Quote from: No Cents on November 21, 2019, 03:35:07 PM
    just my opinion here...but if you have an oil leak coming thru a Cometic MLS head gasket re-torqueing it usually won't fix the leak. Once oil is introduced between the layers of the MLS gasket I consider them a trash can item and replace the head gasket.

:up:
If you have to stop and think about if it is right or wrong, Assume it is wrong.

Sunny Jim

Ripped it down and RE torqued the front head today!
Didn't ride it but ran it until it was up Around 280* F and NO Leak yet!!
So far so good!

les

Quote from: Sunny Jim on November 22, 2019, 03:40:05 AM
Ripped it down and RE torqued the front head today!
Didn't ride it but ran it until it was up Around 280* F and NO Leak yet!!
So far so good!

Great, so that cost nothing.  If it ends up leaking then you can spend some additional money.  Good job on first taking the "I've got nothing to lose" route.  It might just be the fix, and if it ain't, you've lost nothing.

flhxi2go

This is why you should use ARP ultra torque on the head bolts

Sunny Jim

 Still leaking! No more short cuts! Head off.

No Cents

Quote from: Sunny Jim on November 25, 2019, 06:00:26 AM
Still leaking! No more short cuts! Head off.

    :wink:
make sure you clean the head surface and cylinder top off real good with some brake cleaner and toss that leaking head gasket into the garbage can. Oil can never be introduced in between the layers of a MLS head gasket. If it happens...then the chances of it sealing is slim to none.
   Good luck...I hope it's no more than just a head gasket not sealing.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

Sunny Jim


No Cents

  you might want to check out the thread on "cylinder studs M8" in this section.
Bruce posted a good video on the M8's head bolts breaking because of improper torque techniques.
  I thought it was an interesting video that showed how the torque spec would change on a head bolt after it was torqued down to a certain spec. Then after the other three head bolts were torqued in proper sequence...the first head bolt would end up being at a different spec than the other three. The HD tech in the video suggests using S&S head bolts vs using the factory head bolts. Apparently the S&S head bolts are of a better quality.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

Sunny Jim

 Yes Ray I checked it out! I am using the SS head bolts. Tman has a recent video on retensionibg head/ cylinder studs.
I am now In The process of a parts gathering exercise. Stay tuned.