Looking for tech help regarding best cam upgrade for my 2009 Low Rider with 96"

[Terrymcq]

Hello all, I'm FNG/new guy on here and I don't have a lot of tech knowledge for building Harley engines. I'm an old guy who just took up riding a couple years ago at age 57. I want to do an engine build/upgrade to a 107 or larger but I might not be able to afford it for another year or 2. I was hoping to get the best cam upgrade I could and need to hear some suggestions on who makes the best, what is best for my bike, etc. I have put almost 30,000 miles on it since March 2017. I live in central Indiana, some hills here and there, mostly gentle rolling hills and a lot of flat land but I want to make more trip down to Tennessee mountains and surrounding similar terrain. I'm not a racer but I like to get it going fast and the sooner the better. Tired of this thing not having enough passing power at all speeds. I want much better throttle response as instantly as possible. I want to have to brace myself for the head snap as I shift to each gear. I want to get the best I can for all riding, whether country roads and highways or interstates or in city/town although I avoid cities and towns unless I have to go through one to get where I really want to be. If I had my choice, I'd be in the mountains all the time but I can't do that yet so I have to build the bike for the best of all worlds with as much power and speed as I can get. So anyway, if anybody can help educate me on what cam choices there are for the 96" engine with Rinehart 2-into-1 pipes and Screamin Eagle High Flow air cleaner and FP3 tuner, I would appreciate any helpful information.

[kd]

First off, welcome to HTT. 

Ditching the FP3 tuner for a real device (TTS, PV, etc) will be a noticeable performance upgrade on its own and you'll be very glad you did.  Boring to 103 to 107 cu. inches is easy, cheap and IMO the next best thing you can do.  The new tuner will really pay off here.  While the heads are off to do the cylinder bore, have a site supporter cylinder head shop do an inexpensive clean up porting and good valve job.  Be honest with the head guy or tuner guy you choose ( again many experts on this site) about your riding style and goals and ask about cam choices.  Do some searches on the 103 to 107 engines in the dyno section here to confirm that the choices you have made will get you where you want to be.

You say you have to wait a couple of years but I think you will be surprised what I have described is quite affordable.  I suggest you consider diving in and doing it all at once rather than a bit at a time.  It will be cheaper in the long run to do it once and you will get instant gratification for the years you would have been waiting to do it. It's obvious by your opening post that you are less than satisfied with your riding pleasure level and this will be an immediate and lasting fix.  Don't forget a good dyno tune in your budget will bring it all together for guaranteed satisfaction.

[calif phil]

Great advice from KD as always.   

If you want to go cam only for a while.  I would suggest the V&H 575 cam,  they have a matching map that would work with their FP3 and it's a good combo. 

[bigfoot5x]

Lots of good advice on this site. The only thing I would add is that there is a strong relationship between compression and the proper cam. Pay attention to what the cam companies recommend for compression with a particular cam. Lots of guys change to a cam the everyone likes but if the compression does not match than the engine will not pull as you want. The compression on a stock 96" engine is 9.2-1. Most performance cams are designed for 10-1 or higher. It is definitely easier to bore to 103" and get pistons with higher compression, get head work and then pick the cam that works with that compression. You will definitely feel the improvement. Not always true with just a cam change.

[Hossamania]

If you are looking for a cam for your 96" to hold you over until you do the big bore, the Andrews 48 works well with the 96" motor, as does the SE255. They will also work with the 103, with a good tune. There are other cam choices once you go to 103 or 107 that will probably work better, depending on the total build you do.
The FP3 should have a program for both of those cams, but a better tuner will be recommended by many here. The FP3 doesn't get a lot of love here.
If you do any reading here, you will find that a proper tune by a good shop is always recommended when doing engine mods, to get the most out of the work you're doing.

[86fxwg]

I agree with Hoss, Best bang for the buck  to get u by till a 103/107 build would be a good used set of SE 255's & a tune!
It will be a completely different bike. U have a great tuner in S. Indiana that could hook u up!

86

[Jim Bronson]

I did a 103/255/.030 Cometic/TTS tune/V&H pipes/SE AC. It turned out to be a great combo for my '05 Lowrider. It sounded great and had lots of low-end grunt.

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

96" engine with Rinehart 2-into-1 pipes and Screamin Eagle High Flow air cleaner and FP3

First off - DON'T refer to 57 as Old! I'm way far past that!

From reading (which you did a great job describing your area and habits), you avoid the City and spend much of your time on hills and curves.

What you want, I think, is to look into is this: You will probably find, to perform better, with what you've described is a "mild cam" rather than a "large cam".

While bigger cams have a more horsepower, a conservative cam will feel stronger as the max "torque" occurs at lower end of the RPM's "2000-4000". The Horsepower will peak at about 5200 RPM's – All which should provide what you're looking for.

Something in the area of a .510 lift would find that area with good pull off-idle through 5,200 RPM.

You already have the in/out Air Flow covered.

The "Tuner" or "Tune". Well, you'll find they're like Cars – People have their preferred Brand i.e. Ford, Chevrolet, Chrysler. IMO, this makes or breaks your investment.

Finding someone who KNOWS what he or she is doing is not as easy as it may sound. I have some of the most expensive Tuning Equipment Monet can buy at my disposal. BUT, without an innate knowledge of Tuning it means NOTHING!

Personally, I left Tuners behind when I learned how to Tune. Not that there aren't good Systems available. I just feel if the customer tells me, as you described VERY well, I can almost always hit where he wants in a few runs.

One of my instructors had a saying: "The difference between a Dynamometer and Asphalt is a "GREAT DIVIDE......... a Dynamometer doesn't affect the way your ass feels in the seat when you twist the throttle.... It's just a piece of feel good paperwork we charge hundreds of dollars for......"

So, with that in mind, if I were you, I would seek something with an "Auto Tune" Option since you have the ports already in the exhaust.

Hope this helps some with your decision. Good Luck

[PoorUB]

Terry, I would wait until you can do it all at one time. If cash is an issue, make a plan, stick to it and start buying parts. You might find a slightly used set of 103" pistons and cylinders and maybe a good deal on cams too. Collect your parts and in a year or two get 'er done. OEM 103" pistons are cheap and a proven combination.

I am not a fan of the 107", many here are not, but you will get both sides. I had one for a riding season and went down to a 103". I had self inflicted problems with my 107", tore it down and repaired it and got it back on the road. It ran great for the rest of the season, then started using oil. No issues with it when I went with the OEM 103".

Keep in mind if you do a cam change now and in a year of two bump the cubes up you will have to tune it both times, around a $750 price tag.

[1workinman]

Terry, I would wait until you can do it all at one time. If cash is an issue, make a plan, stick to it and start buying parts. You might find a slightly used set of 103" pistons and cylinders and maybe a good deal on cams too. Collect your parts and in a year or two get 'er done. OEM 103" pistons are cheap and a proven combination.

I am not a fan of the 107", many here are not, but you will get both sides. I had one for a riding season and went down to a 103". I had self inflicted problems with my 107", tore it down and repaired it and got it back on the road. It ran great for the rest of the season, then started using oil. No issues with it when I went with the OEM 103".

Keep in mind if you do a cam change now and in a year of two bump the cubes up you will have to tune it both times, around a $750 price tag.

I with UB here on the 107 and if you can find some take off pistons and cylinders then great .  For the  money a used 255 cam and replace the inner cam bearing may be some good lifters and a tune and ride it for a while .  All I done for that last 25 years or so was work so I got to a point in life that I was going to ride a scooter or just wish I had later that was several years and the first one was a road king with a 96 inch motor . I finally sold it never gave any problems but it just did not run like I expected or wanted . My two now one does for sure and the other is ok I guess .  Depends on what you want and if you like the rush of a motor that will pull hard or just a cruiser . If it just a cruiser I think the 96 and the 255 and a few parts to make it last might be just fine

[838]

You could always save the $ for the full build and (for the time being) change your gearing with a smaller trans sprocket. Doing a SE255, a48, s&s 551, woods 222 type "bolt in" cam and the trans pulley swap would make a fun ride on the twists!

Budget A48 can be found for around $200. Used SE255s around $100 and they yield similar results to each other... s&s 551 sounds real good if you're into that! Vendors on here sell really good lifters too, and wayyy better prices than online retail.

[thirdjld]

I live in Central Indy and have an '09 Electra glide and '08 Fatbob. Had some not so great experiences with the fatbob going to stage 2. On the bagger I will eventually go to 117  but in '17 I wanted to do something I could afford. I got a used SE255 from the Swap Meet section and took it to Sheffer Performance in Evansville (board member Durwood). Economical, very much worth the trip and I was familiar with many shops in Indy. 25K miles later I am happy with my decision. Not a racer but few times do I get on the interstate when I'm not up to 70/80 by the time I merge with traffic. I've made a lot of trips to include Florida and New Mexico. FWIW
John

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Bore to 107", Andrews 57's along with a good set of heads, is a nice build that produces great useable torque, quiet engine operation, and pump gas friendly.
MUCH more can be had from a 107", but that combo is fun.