Complete rebuild parts list for Crank up 107

[JLockhart29]

Have 130k on my 04 FXST and putting together parts list for rebuild and and a little extra. Bike has a set of S&S 570s in it for the last 90K of that. On average how many miles is a cam good for? Of course I'll inspect them once I pull it down just wondering if I should go ahead and budget in new cams.   Thanks.

[koko3052]

If you are tearing it down for a rebuild, budget in the cams & lifters. No use having "flakes" go thru the system.

[Ohio HD]

If you plan to ride it a lot of miles as you have in the past. I'd probably budget a cam set as well.

[JLockhart29]

Will do. I was planning on new lifters all ready. Thanks

[les]

I had some issues a whole with the case hardening wearing off S&S cams.  Actually, they were 570's too.  It would happen with only around 35K miles.  How about posting a picture of your set with 90K so we can take a look?

[turboprop]

Have 130k on my 04 FXST and putting together parts list for rebuild and and a little extra. Bike has a set of S&S 570s in it for the last 90K of that. On average how many miles is a cam good for? Of course I'll inspect them once I pull it down just wondering if I should go ahead and budget in new cams.   Thanks.

Seeing as nobody has answered your question and has simply said you should replace the came, I suggest you contact S&S and ask them what the expected life span of their cams are.

Leave out the part about already having their cams and push for an answer on what they think the lifespan is.   The reason for this is that you want an answer that is not biased based on potential warranty, sales, etc. Just an answer to the question.

[JLockhart29]

I'll put a pic up when I pull it down in a few months. Be interesting to see what alot of things look like with that many miles. So far a flat tire and broke clutch cable is the only issue I have ever had. Pretty much a fanatic about PMs. Run Moble V Twin since I did top end and cams. Excellent idea on talking to S&S by the way Turboprop!

[JLockhart29]

After putting it off for a couple years building a new house finally getting around to rebuilding my old 04 FXST Hippo build with 125k on it. After much research have decided to go with Scott at Hillside doing stage 2 heads and cylinder/piston for a 107. Staying with the .570 gear as I'm all ready use to that cam anyway. John at Darkhorse was in Daytona but Andrew was supper nice to work with. Putting in one of their Man O War 4.375 cranks,Timkin, check lifter bores, ect. Let Darkhorse make it new and seal the lower up. I got to thinking if I don't do something just right on the top end that's one thing. In the lower it's a whole different ball game. One and done with them. Now I'm trying to get a complete parts list for this thing. Maybe this will help others one day. Scott supplying top end gasket kit, pistons and rings. Not trying to get discussion on brands just items like:
New carb
New lifters
Primary tower gaskets
Exhaust manifold gaskets
S&S Gear drive Instalation kit
Softail oil line fittings
Primary gasket (yea I've reused mine dozen times  )

These are just a few. Any and all suggestions appreciated. With supply times and shortages sooner ordered the better. I'll edit this post to add parts as it goes. And thinks!

[rigidthumper]

new balancer chain, sprockets, and tensioners, and bearings.
Ronnie's fiche is your friend.

[JLockhart29]

new balancer chain, sprockets, and tensioners, and bearings.
Ronnie's fiche is your friend.

Absolutely if I were doing the bottom end myself but in my case Darkhorse is handling all that for me but will add to list.

[koko3052]

How's your primary chain, sprockets, clutch plates, clutch cable, transmission bearings & seals?

[JLockhart29]

How's your primary chain, sprockets, clutch plates, clutch cable, transmission bearings & seals?

5th gear race walked at 90k so replaced with S&S tapered race and while that deep at 90k replaced every seal and bearing in tranny out. Primary looks like new. Would replace chain tensioner but it still has 90% material left. Clutch is an issue as still stock except SE spring. Clutch cable only couple years old as are throttles. I'll start new thread about clutch, carb soon. Just finished getting shop in order and will probably start pulling it down tomorrow.

[calif phil]

Swingarm bearings.

Have a local starter shop, freshen up the starter. 

Hi flow petcock.

[JLockhart29]

Differently need to swap out those swing arm bearings with every thing pulled off. I rebuilt the starter a couple years ago so should be good.

[JSD]

What comp you running with the .570 also if nont in above a Twin Tech ignition module. New Map sensor 

[Colvinb]

Inspect your Rocker Arms for wear. 

Great "Upgrade" is the S&S Rocker arms (dont need rollers with your lift of the 570s) but they have a 50% longer Bushing support area. Add in their Rocker shafts to match.  It's usually an overlooked item, but those are a nice upgrade for a rebuild.

[JLockhart29]

I thought about the rocker upgrade but cost are just going and going. I have been running the stockers with the 570 for about 80k so if everything looks good will stick with them. I'll start pulling the primary tomorrow. Rear wheel, gas tk, oil tk, pipes, ect are off now. Bushing pulled out of my fuel petcock for no reason than old taking off the tank. Got to get new one. All the rubber oil lines are nearly 20 years old. Replacing. Metal oil line connections to tk and motor. Replacing. Just anyway wearable or brittle replacing with in reason. I want to feel confident when done I can jump on it and head cross country.

[JLockhart29]

Got the bike stripped last weekend. Only problem was the very last torx bolt on the counterbalance assembly. Tried Impact,torch, chisel and hammer. Nothing. Ended up taking to a friend's house who is a welder and part time machinist for an oil refinery and drilled the head off it. Slipped the assembly off and backed the stud out with pipe wrench. Boxed up and sent from S. Arkansas about $165 everything. Not bad considering basically the whole motor minus crank. Anyway hear is my list so far. Yea cams were shot. One lobe and corresponding lifter pitted up. Yea I know the starter is a waste but threw the years after the Hippo I have pulled the stocker 3x and rebuilt, 3 different batteries, new stater AND roter, new voltage reg pluse ran every diagnostic I know on everything. Drags first couple strokes nearly every time and forget it if it's 27 degrees or colder. Want spin enough to fire. And yea one of those three 5th gears are leaking so change them pluse Shifter seal for good measure while it's laying on the bench.


-S&S gear drive Instalation kit # 106-5896
-Fuel petcock 61338-02☆
-Hose1/4 ID X 5/8 OD 24 Inches gas from    the tk to carb
-Hose 5/16 ID X 5/8 OD 12 Inches gas tk.      cross over
-SE spark plug wires 31907-08A☆
-SE exhaust manifold gaskets 17048-98
-HD oil cooler 26157-07A
- Elbow oil drain 63628-00
-Oil feed hose 63611-00
-Rear fork bearing 9270A
-Oil line retainer assembly (2) 63632-00
-Oil line retainer assembly (2) 63783-00
-Tower gaskets 63859-95B
-Primary chain tensioner pad 39976-01
-Jack shaft oil seal 12066
-Inner primary stator O ring 11147A
-Inner Primary tranny oil seal 12052
-Locking tabs (6) 3318-85
-Speed sensor O ring 11289A
-Crank sensor o ring 11289A
-Stater bolts (4) 2720
-1.4 HD Starter 31335-03A☆
-Mikuni 45 easy kit●
-SE intake manifold 29635-99☆
-S&S 570g with Inner gears 33-5166
-S&S precision tippits 330-0718
-



-Oil seal mainshaft left side 12067B●
-Quad seal mainshaft 11165●
-Oil seal mainshaft 5th gear 12035B●
-Shifter oil seal 12045●
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[JLockhart29]

Hears the cam. Posted pic hear as well. As you can see bottom lobe has a cut that is pitted along it as well.
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[Ohio HD]

You could try to have them polished, but if that is pitting, it probably won't help.

[JLockhart29]

Yea its like the whole cut is made of little pits and gouges in a line. No way I want to put that back. Spent way to much to cheap out now. Andrew from Darkhorse will probably call today and tell me my lifter bores are done!

[60Gunner]

Not to start an oil war but this is one reason I don't run motorcycle oil. No reason to. Besides the ridiculous cost, motorcycle oil is designed for motorcycles that share a sump and as such has to work in wet clutches. For this reason it lacks friction modifiers that cause clutches to slip.
These friction modifiers provide a beneficial secondary level of protection in an engine.

I run Valvoline VR1 Conventional that I get for $3.99/qt at NAPA and change it every 2500 to 3000 miles. Brad Penn Racing semi synthetic is another I like but cost a little more but still cheaper than the popular MC oils.
Both have consistently provided better UOAs in Harley v-twins. And I run it hard.(3000-5000rpm) most of the time.
Just about any good race oil with an adequate detergent package is a better choice in these air cooled v-twins that DON'T share a sump and I've never seen wear like this.
I've seen m1 v-twin shear in less than 2000 miles and thicken to a high 60 grade in high heat conditions. Bad for cold starts.
If it works in a wet clutch it doesn't go in my engine.
Now I don't know how you ride or how much difference this makes in your case. For the average Joe with a stock or near stock engine that just cruises around probably not so much.
But the whole MC oil in a Harley never made any sense to me when race oil is obviously much better suited to take the abuse of an air cooled v-twin and the heat associated with them.

Just sayin'...

[JLockhart29]

Yea I'm looking at changing oil myself. 90K is a lot of miles and so far with just a quick look pulling it down everything else looks good so is it the cam or the oil...chicken or the egg, cam or the lifter? I'm actually still running Syn3 in the tranny and primary. In 04 that was the thing to do. SE models came with it in all three holes. I swapped to Mobil when I did the Hippo. Now no one hardly runs the Syn3 but after changing every bearing and seal in the Tranny at 110k for a 5th gear race doing a walk about and finding no visual wear on the gears or forks pluse primary looking great I'm sticking with it. Life is so confusing!

[Coyote]

In 04 that was the thing to do. SE models came with it in all three holes.

It was never "the thing to do "

[Buglet]

  If I remember right It was around 03 or 04 the CVO's had a sticker on the primary telling you all three hole came with SYN 3 from the factory.

[Ohio HD]

It was never "the thing to do "

Yep   

[JLockhart29]

If I remember right It was around 03 or 04 the CVO's had a sticker on the primary telling you all three hole came with SYN 3 from the factory.

That was what I was saying.👍

[Hossamania]

They did come with syn3, but most changed over to a proper gear oil for the trans and primary. Not to say the syn3 didn't work, it just could be better.

[Hossamania]

I'll be interested to see what my lifters (B) and cams look like when I finally tear mine down, 100,000 miles of abuse so far (yes, lifters too) using just about every type of synthetic oil there is.
The 5 speed tranny got rebuilt last year (125,000 miles), the tech said it looked good enough to close it back up and leave it, I just happened to have a new gear set and needed the leaks fixed. Again, just about every type of gear oil run in that thing.
I've tried to shy away from fixing it until it is broken. Strange noise? Run it.

[JLockhart29]

They did come with syn3, but most changed over to a proper gear oil for the trans and primary. Not to say the syn3 didn't work, it just could be better.

Absolutely agree but dang it's held up so well for 125k if I get another 125k probably be trying to escape from the home on it!🤣

[JLockhart29]

Hears a little better pic and lifter from that lobe.
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[Hossamania]

They did come with syn3, but most changed over to a proper gear oil for the trans and primary. Not to say the syn3 didn't work, it just could be better.

Absolutely agree but dang it's held up so well for 125k if I get another 125k probably be trying to escape from the home on it!🤣

👍👍

[Ohio HD]

Hears a little better pic and lifter from that lobe.

It would probably be a good idea to measure the lifter bores and inspect the bores for wear with the miles you have on it. As well it looks like some wear on the lifter body. That may have transferred to the bore in the case. Some companies sell over size lifters if needed.


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[FSG]

I'd look at having the lifter bores bored and sleeved while it's all apart 

[Ohio HD]

Yeah, not a bad idea. They make lifter bore sleeves, or a good machinist can make them as well. In any case they need to machine the oil passages into the sleeves and retain them so they can't spin.


Lifter Bore Sleeves

[JLockhart29]

Should read my other 107 thread. Darkhorse has my cases. I pulled them apart, removed the Crank and balance assembly, and sent them the balancers and cases. Man o war stroker Crank, Timkin and make it new. Seal it up and return. Andrew said they will blueprint the whole thing. As said the lifter bores may need over lifters or sleeved. Alex called today and said cases made it fine. Needs the piston assembly and make from Scott at Hillside and they will get to work.

[JSD]

Surprised the lifter bores were good after seeing that lifter. luck is on your side. 

[JLockhart29]

OK I'm starting to go threw my parts from the tare down. See what's good and what's not. Having the stock jugs bored anyway so these will be spair but what caused this? Just a ring gap? Other one was fine.
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[Ohio HD]

Can't be from a ring, they don't go all the way to the bottom of the cylinder. Maybe from a wrist pin. Is that the side of the cylinder towards the push rods?

[JLockhart29]

Yea it does

[Ohio HD]

Can't be from a ring, they don't go all the way to the bottom of the cylinder. Maybe from a wrist pin. Is that the side of the cylinder towards the push rods?

I mean the pin retainer clip, not the pin itself.

[JLockhart29]

We have a winner.

[Ohio HD]

Ouch! The piston ring land broke away.

[rigidthumper]

Makes you wonder how long ago that happened???

[JLockhart29]

Normal oil pump wear or something to worry about?

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[Billy]

Looks like something other than oil went through it. I would replace it.
Also thoroughly clean or replace camplate, oil tank etc.

[JLockhart29]

I still had about 2k$ of HD rewards. Got a new S&S plate and pump waiting for me with a slue of other seals, bearings,ect at dealer about 70 miles away waiting on me. Cam box will be all new, S&S, when I put it back together. Andrew took my piston assembly weight today so they will start putting bottom together tomorrow. Scott has my cams ordered and should start on top end soon.

[JLockhart29]

Hear is I hope complete list of parts for this money pit!   Yea some are over kill but I had a lot of HD rewards points and plenty of Tee shirts. Have had problems turning this engine sub freezing since I did the Hippo. Rebuilt starter 2x, new batteries, regulator, you name it. Thread for another time. Anyway that's why the starter. Of course Scott is supplying Cometic gasket kit top end. I also included seals and gaskets for the tranny that can be changed without scattering it since I have one of those 5th gear seals going and a good time to fix.


-Rework stage 2 SE Preformance heads and full bore to 107 supplied cylinders as well as supply pistons and rings. Cometic top end kit as well. Hillside Cycle.
-Darkhorse 4 3/8 Man O War competition rods, welded and pro plugged, Timkin converg, welded counter wt. Sprocket, balanced and blue printed made new and button up.

-S&S gear drive Instalation kit # 106-5896 ●
-Fuel petcock 61338-02●
-Hose1/4 ID X 5/8 OD 24 Inches gas from    the tk to carb
-Hose 5/16 ID X 5/8 OD 12 Inches gas tk.      cross over
-SE spark plug wires 31907-08A●
-SE exhaust manifold gaskets 17048-98●
-HD oil cooler 26157-07A●
- Elbow oil drain 63628-00●
-Oil feed hose 63611-00●
-Rear fork bearing 9270A●
-Oil line retainer assembly (2) 63632-00●
-Oil line retainer assembly (2) 63783-00●
-Tower gaskets 63859-95B●
-Primary chain tensioner pad 39976-01●
-Jack shaft oil seal 12066●
-Inner primary stator O ring 11147A●
-Inner Primary tranny oil seal 12052●
-Locking tabs (6) 33318-85●
-Speed sensor O ring 11289A●
-Crank sensor o ring 11289A●
-Stater bolts (4) 2720●
-1.4 HD Starter 31335-03A●
-Mikuni 45 easy kit●
-SE intake manifold 29635-99●
-S&S 570g with Inner gears 33-5166☆
-S&S precision tippits 330-0718☆
-S&S oil pump and cam plate 310-0731●
-Rockout rocker locks Amazon●



-Oil seal mainshaft left side 12067B●
-Quad seal mainshaft 11165●
-Oil seal mainshaft 5th gear 12035B●
-Shifter oil seal 12045●