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Starting a 1980 FLH that has sat for a while

Started by flhs90, May 07, 2022, 02:08:42 PM

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flhs90

Need to scribe where my timing is set before removing stock ignition plate, correct me if wrong and 4 turns on adj. Pushrods after removing lifters.
Have service manual just wish to confirm w u all.
1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon

flhs90

July 16, 2022, 02:17:03 PM #76 Last Edit: July 16, 2022, 08:15:27 PM by flhs90
Test ride 4 miles, All systems go.
Bike shifting up and down speeds up to 45 taking it ez until I can learn it's quirks. Some drips for now to be addressed as time allows.

Updated this afternoona since gaskets arrive next week.
2nd test run 10 miles all gears up to 60mph. Very smooth at speed and shifting like butter with the ATF.
Primary is now dry as it is on the original engine oil lube with the hoses coming from oil pump and return as well as vent. A joy 2 ride.

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1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon

turboprop

That is a great looking shovel. Congrats on many levels.
'We' like this' - Said by the one man operation.

Fugawee


flhs90

Quote from: Fugawee on July 16, 2022, 07:34:46 PMYes, it sure is.
Fugawee, u helped make it EZ on spinning the wrenches I look in the mailbox every day nervously.
1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon

flhs90

Quote from: kd on May 07, 2022, 05:28:52 PMWas the garage it sat in heated with any climate control?  If it was anywhere in the north where the temp shifts from warm to freeing there will be condensation and over 15 years of sitting without at least cranking it over you can count on the rollers marking the crank pin and mains. That is from experience not guessing.  The 80 has Timkin left side bearings. A way to get an idea is to pull the compensator and slip the outer Timkin cone (roller) out and see what the cup (race) and rollers look like.  That won't mean the crank pin is OK but it will give you a hint at possible damage. 

If the rings have been sitting in the same place all that tine under non favorable climate the condensation will effect the rings, piston ring grooves and cylinders.  If you have or can get an endoscope you can take the pistons to BDC and scan them for marks.  You wont see the rings but marked cylinder walls ups the possibility of mung in the rings and grooves.

IMO turboprop has given some good advice if you are prepared to give it a shot starting it.  You notice his suggestion starts with a capitol P for Patience.  FLHS90's question about Marvel mystery oil is a good one and IMO a good suggestion too.  If after a while you can crank it with MMO in the oil tank and let it sit the MMO will feed to the bottom end bearings and hopefully be beneficial there too.

If this bike is as minty as you say it will be well worth it to take the time to do do it the best way possible before hitting it with fuel and spark.  You'll have lots of little things to do in the mean time anyway.

   
Excellent coaching Turboprop and KD,
I worked very patiently as advised.
The results were well worth it and the shovel deserved nothing less.
Brings a smile.
1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon

kd

I'm glad to see it worked out so well so far.  It's a great looking survivor and should give you many more smiles.  Probably a little frustration from time to time also.  :hyst:  You did a great job.

Your next job is to send the previous owner a link to this thread so he can see that you were true to your stated intentions and got it back to where it should be. 
KD

flhs90

July 29, 2022, 12:27:22 PM #82 Last Edit: July 29, 2022, 05:53:34 PM by FSG
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1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon

flhs90

July 29, 2022, 12:35:20 PM #83 Last Edit: July 29, 2022, 12:45:55 PM by flhs90
Shovelers that helped I feel u should be part of the progress. My rear caliper got stuck and slowed the bike down. A 3/8 wrench and a screwdriver allowed me to get back hone. Organizing a tool kit to carry as I sort out the bike and fix components that need to be addressed. Went entirely through the rear master to banana flushing. New seals, etc. Test ride just confirmed the repairs have bananas working front and rear releasing piston as they should. Was surprised with the Japan replacement rubber rear hose.
A for the electrical wizard the nextt time starter button clicks a d a no start have a new Genuine Bosch relay to carry or install, no idea if the starter relay is from 1980.
More to learn. I perform the repair 3 or 4 times over and over but the shortcuts are sinking in this thick skull of mine. Frustration not allowed this is for fun.
Filled the tank with Moco's 50 wt. Put the free qt of Belray 20w50 that seller gave me in the tranny after the ATF flush suggested 2 me.
Cut open the tank oil filter and studied the non metallic small flakes possibly aluminum tucked away in crevices with sludge. Shovel has put around 70 miles on it since the engine soak.
Thanks to all.

1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon