Torque spec early touring oil pan bolt

[billbuilds]

      What's a safe torque spec for the early (1999) touring oil pan bolts? Seems like quite a spread in 12 years time. My 99 SM says 7-9 ft-lb whereas my 2011 SM says 132-156 in-lb. Same bolt (HD 4741A) used in both applications. I did note Service Bulletin M-1305 which is apparently for the six speeds. I was wondering about my early early five speed as I'm on the home stretch of cleaning out the pan detail. Thanks, Bill

[billbuilds]

    The high end according to the SM is 9 ft-lb or 108 in-lb. I called Baker cause I really wanted to get this thing fastened back down before the pink stuff started to drip down the trans drain galley again (it's relentless) and onto the gasket mating mating surface. They told me that their instructions for their now discontinued plus one pan stated 110 in-lb. I went with the 108 and sequenced them home.

[billbuilds]

     My 1999 FLHR service manual says to use Hylomar on the gasket surfaces. Not sure who Harley get their oil pan gaskets from.  The one I picked up earlier this year looks to be metal core with fomett coating so maybe a little Hylomar to hold it in place during pan install but no real need.  I have not been able to run this motor long enough to tell you if the gasket is doing its job.
     How did you gain space between the bottom of the pan and the frame crossover? is there a chance that you're compromising the gasket when you slide the pan back in? Are you cleaning the bolts well and using Loctite 243 on them?
     
     

[RoadKingKohn]

My 1999 FLHR service manual says to use Hylomar on the gasket surfaces. Not sure who Harley get their oil pan gaskets from.  The one I picked up earlier this year looks to be metal core with fomett coating so maybe a little Hylomar to hold it in place during pan install but no real need.  I have not been able to run this motor long enough to tell you if the gasket is doing its job.
     How did you gain space between the bottom of the pan and the frame crossover? is there a chance that you're compromising the gasket when you slide the pan back in? Are you cleaning the bolts well and using Loctite 243 on them?
     
     

I loosened the front engine mount and jacked up the engine.  That gave me plenty of room with the new style oil pan.  I had about 3/8 inch of room.  Cleaned the bolts and did put Blue 243 on them.

The tech from the shop I called said there was a Tech Bulletin about not using Hylomar anymore.

I have a stock HD gasket that is metal with a plastic coating on both sides. Using the new style oil pan takes away the stupid springs that hold down the plastic baffle.

The oil pan went in easy. I decided to increase the torque to 144 in-lbs which is the max recommended on a Grade 8  1/4-20.

I have been

[smoserx1]

I replaced the pan on my 99 FLHT about 15 years ago and it was frustrating.  I destroyed at least one gasket and found the SM procedure did not work for me. As best I can recall I cut a piece of light cardboard (similar to a Kleenex box and taped the cardboard to the front of the pan so it protected the front inch or so of the pan's mating surface.  I had the gasket in place (not glued or "hylormared") and slid it a couple of inches backwards.  With the leading edge of the pan protected by the Kleenex cardboard I got it all into place, removed the Kleenex box piece, slid the gasket forward and started a few bolts to align everything.  I remember having to deal with those damn springs holding the baffle down and finally installing all the bolts when the bike was off the lift, as the lift blocked access to some of the bolts.  It was a PIA.  If the cross member is giving you issues it may be due to using it as a jack point when changing tires, bowing it upwards.  it can be straightened out.

[RoadKingKohn]

I replaced the pan on my 99 FLHT about 15 years ago and it was frustrating.  I destroyed at least one gasket and found the SM procedure did not work for me. As best I can recall I cut a piece of light cardboard (similar to a Kleenex box and taped the cardboard to the front of the pan so it protected the front inch or so of the pan's mating surface.  I had the gasket in place (not glued or "hylormared") and slid it a couple of inches backwards.  With the leading edge of the pan protected by the Kleenex cardboard I got it all into place, removed the Kleenex box piece, slid the gasket forward and started a few bolts to align everything.  I remember having to deal with those damn springs holding the baffle down and finally installing all the bolts when the bike was off the lift, as the lift blocked access to some of the bolts.  It was a PIA.  If the cross member is giving you issues it may be due to using it as a jack point when changing tires, bowing it upwards.  it can be straightened out.

My crossmember is straight. My biggest problem at first was just getting the stupid springs in. Once I got a newer version of the oil pan that did not use the springs it was very easy.

The gasket was not sealing at the lower torque number. I have it now at 144 in-lbs and it seems to be sealing.

[smoserx1]

Glad to hear u got it.  just for future reference if anybody does this on the old style oil pan with the springs, I struggled like hell getting the springs to move forward as the pan was sliding into place.  I was using a large flat screwdriver.  Got some very good after the fact advice right here that using a wide plastic putty knife to guide them works much better.  makes a lot of sense in retrospect.

[billbuilds]

     Thanks for the update. It's got to feel good to have that frustration melt away. Apparently the newer metal core gasket needs a higher clamp load than the stock (at least for 1999) paper one. Now I am thinking that I should retorque mine while the bike is up on the table and all.
     As mentioned earlier there is a big difference in torque values between my 1999 FLHR service manual and my 2011. High torque for the 1999 is 108 in-lb. High torque for the 2011 is 156 in-lb. Same fastener.
                                           Ride safe, Bill

[nibroc]

 

going to make a note of this in my 99 FLHT folder

thanks

[SP33DY]

I use a large bladed putty knife to hold the springs down.

[tdrglide]

Too bad they jacked up the price on the 09-up pans. I switched over my 03 oil pan after a lifter failure back around 2009. Price then was worth loss of aggravation. Was careful to torque down in cross pattern in steps