Top End

[PJultra]

Stock 80" Ultra Classic. EV27 cam, CV carb, Rinehart 2 into 1 exhaust. Pulling heads and cylinders to replace weeping and leaking gaskets.
Spoke with my local indy who specializes in older bikes, Evo's on down. Asked him what is the best thing I can do to increase performance and he recommends just replacing the carb with an S&S and using stock pistons.
I'm thinking replace the stock pistons with 9.5:1 pistons. Then later an S&S carb. Trying to keep the cost down.
If I go 9.5:1, will I need a stronger starter? Will just changing carb to S&S make that much of a differance?
It's a good running bike, but I want it to be more fun with more power.

[JSD]

On a 80" if your CV is good and jetted. The E is not much improvement. Saying this i love the simplicity of the S&S 

[guido4198]

What's the current compression on each cylinder ?
While you have the heads off, consider having a machine shop shave 50 thousandth's off them.

[Hossamania]

How many miles on the motor? Refresh the heads as long as they're off? Rather than new pistons, you could have the heads milled with .050 inch removed, a common practice to raise compression. Cheaper than new pistons and cylinder hone?
Can't help with the starter, but the stock unit is pretty stout. Have some manual compression releases installed in the heads, that will solve any issues.

Guido answered while I was typing.

[RTMike]

  9.5:1 comp is a good combo for a EV27 and HSR42,this will make you happy

[jsachs1]

9.5:1 comp is a good combo for a EV27 and HSR42,this will make you happy

You CAN'T miss with the above combo, on RT Mikes post. That  + A good exhaust, and ignition, should put you about 80 h.p.
John

[PJultra]

How many miles on the motor? Refresh the heads as long as they're off? Rather than new pistons, you could have the heads milled with .050 inch removed, a common practice to raise compression. Cheaper than new pistons and cylinder hone?
Can't help with the starter, but the stock unit is pretty stout. Have some manual compression releases installed in the heads, that will solve any issues.

Guido answered while I was typing.

Around 35,000 miles. Having the cylinders honed anyway.

[PJultra]

The cylinder base gaskets are like someone used something by JB Weld. I spent a good hour on one cylinder trying to remove the "gasket" material and got 1/4 the way around cylinder. And scratched the surface. I think they will need to be turned to remove the "gasket" material. Wouldn't taking .050 off of the base of the cylinder do the same as taking it off thr heads? Or are there other things to consider?

[Ohio HD]

The cylinder base gaskets are like someone used something by JB Weld. I spent a good hour on one cylinder trying to remove the "gasket" material and got 1/4 the way around cylinder. And scratched the surface. I think they will need to be turned to remove the "gasket" material. Wouldn't taking .050 off of the base of the cylinder do the same as taking it off thr heads? Or are there other things to consider?

No, your pistons would be sticking out of the cylinders 0.050".

[PJultra]

The cylinder base gaskets are like someone used something by JB Weld. I spent a good hour on one cylinder trying to remove the "gasket" material and got 1/4 the way around cylinder. And scratched the surface. I think they will need to be turned to remove the "gasket" material. Wouldn't taking .050 off of the base of the cylinder do the same as taking it off thr heads? Or are there other things to consider?

No, your pistons would be sticking out of the cylinders 0.050".

Thanks. I didn't think of that....duh

[aswracing]

On the base gasket weeping, give a read to this service bulletin: http://hammerperf.com/m-1043-94-newbasegasket-studs.pdf . It's kind of late in your case but I'd still update the studs if I were you.

While the studs are out, consider a little fine filing work on the area around each stud hole, to flatten it out. The old style studs liked to distort the case deck right there. Wet rags in the cylinder holes to catch the debris.

One more common and effective fix is what used to be called "pig tails". Now available here: https://www2.vtwinmfg.com/cylinder-oil-tube-drain-tool-kit.html .

Trust me, you're not the first with an Evo Big Twin to have this problem.

On edit: I see yours is a 1998. You should already have the newer style cylinder studs.

[aswracing]

Oh, one more thing .. the guys who are steering you to the HSR42 are correct. It's a state of the art carb. I've dyno tuned hundreds of bikes with HSR's, CV40's, and S&S carbs. That's exactly the order of how well they work. G's and D's have their place in the world of competition. You couldn't give me an E.

[wfolarry]

Oh, one more thing .. the guys who are steering you to the HSR42 are correct. It's a state of the art carb. I've dyno tuned hundreds of bikes with HSR's, CV40's, and S&S carbs. That's exactly the order of how well they work. G's and D's have their place in the world of competition. You couldn't give me an E.

I really like mine. 
Plus it's black 

[hbkeith]

Stock 80" Ultra Classic. EV27 cam, CV carb, Rinehart 2 into 1 exhaust. Pulling heads and cylinders to replace weeping and leaking gaskets.
Spoke with my local indy who specializes in older bikes, Evo's on down. Asked him what is the best thing I can do to increase performance and he recommends just replacing the carb with an S&S and using stock pistons.
I'm thinking replace the stock pistons with 9.5:1 pistons. Then later an S&S carb. Trying to keep the cost down.
If I go 9.5:1, will I need a stronger starter? Will just changing carb to S&S make that much of a differance?
It's a good running bike, but I want it to be more fun with more power.

I have basicly this same combo on my 97 , I just shaved the Heads .050 instead of new pistons , Bigger Valves and Ported , Just rejet the CV no need for new Carb , and dont need compression releases . Lots more power and ive put 60000 on it since done , GOOD Headwork will give you lots more power than a carb swap

[JW113]

With that set up the stock CV is more than adequate, they tend to nose over around 90HP. Your set up, if tuned properly, should get you 75-80. For an all around rider and especially on a budget who could ask for more? S&S, though beloved by some, would be a waste of money in your case. Don't just "re-jet", either get an AFR gauge (my preference) or take it to a shop with a dyno and dial it in proper. Makes all the difference in the world.

And yes, the stock starter will be fine.

-JW

[hbkeith]

Not saying Dyno is a Bad thing , but when on a budget it cost as much as headwork , my 97 runs great never seen a dyno . i feel some get freaked out thinking they have to dyno or there bike with never be good , and im talking only CARB bikes here . My Dragbike is the only  Carb bike ive owned to be on a Dyno .

[Ironheadmike]

I wouldn't shave the heads . I've done many .01 over 10:1 comp pistons . Never had a problem with starter issues.

[JW113]

At the end of the day, if you are happy, that is all that matters. I used to be happy too. Then this know-it-all guy on HTT finally convinced me to get an AFR gauge. What I learned was that ignorance may be bliss, but an engine tuned to the correct AFR over the entire throttle range is bliss on steroids. It was one of the best "I told you so" moments of my life. I was shocked to actually see how far off the AFR was esp at WFO. Getting that dialed in must have got me 30% more torque. Even more on my Shovelhead, it was WAY off.

But, if you're happy....

-JW