Engine Brake in and tune setup?

[EZ wrencher]

Looking for just a little more power I opened up the cam chest to look into changing cams.  I found .009 runout on the pinion shaft.  Now the crank is out to get trued and welded.  Since I have the whole thing torn apart I decided to go with Fuel Motos 107 Big bore kit.  I am also switching to a thundermax tuner.

My questions are
1. What is the suggested brake in procedure for new engines and what type of oil is used.  
2. How to best accomplish this while getting the new tune straightened out.

Thanks in advance for any help as this is my first twin cam rebuild and first time working with thundermax.

[Hossamania]

Search engine break-in or motor break-in to start looking for info.
This is one result, there are many.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,111427.0/all.html

[RoadKingKohn]

Should be the same break in as the owner's manual from when the bike was new. Then use a high quality synthetic oil that is made from PAO (poly alpha olefin). Harley says to change the oil at 400 miles and then at 5,000 miles. I did it at 200 miles and 400 miles for my break in.

[Tacocaster]

Follow Hoss's lead and the contributors to the thread he linked - It's damm good information!
 
Select the T-Max Map with the closest resemblance to your build and stay with it (assuming it works decent) until your new motor completes the heat cycles, break-in miles and oil changes before you start "tinkering" with the Map(s). It's important to know, Heat is your enemy during break-in but don't overthink the method to combat it.

My personal opinion is to use a good dyno oil for all the break-in miles then switch to a good Synth but like everyone, I have an a-hole too!

[fbn ent]

I use dino oil for break in and syn after. In my experience the T-Max will start rich which isn't a bad thing on a new engine.

[kd]

I use dino oil for break in and syn after. In my experience the T-Max will start rich which isn't a bad thing on a new engine.

Agreed, providing the rich condition is not excessive.  Fresh rings and cylinder hone can get washed, especially if idled.  The oil that makes it's way into the cylinders above 1500 rpm is important to relieve heat and maintain cylinder bore shape for ring seating.  It is a fact that after the first 50 miles or so the rings have seated.  For this reason many like to protect their investment and where possible have a dyno tuner set the afr before you ride it.  By the time he safely sets those parameters you will be at or just before 50 miles and can pretty well ride it as normal.  Acceleration and deceleration loads the rings against the cylinders and that's why you do both.  Just keep the rpm reasonable so the piston speed is not too fast.

[Hossamania]

As mentioned, I'm a fan of break-in on a dyno by a knowledgeable operater, but most motors have not been broken in that way and they are just fine. Also as mentioned, heat management is a big key.
Break-in does not mean "baby" the motor. Do not lug it. An occasional moderate decel during break-in helps seal the rings too.

[EZ wrencher]

Thanks for all the replies.  I had searched but I guess I was spelling it wrong...

I read over the thread that Hoss linked as well as the HD owners manual and the S&S engine owners manual.  The break in sounds pretty straight forward.  There seems to be some difference in opinions on whether to baby it or hammer on it but thats what one would expect from the intronet.

I plan to use dino oil and follow close to the suggestions in the S&S manual to be safe.

My main concern was having a new map at the same time as the engine break in.  I want to avoid running too rich or too lean during break in.  Wouldn't it be possible to monitor AFR with the thundermax during initial startup to determine if it was safe to go ahead with the break in or that adjustments needed to be made to the maps.