Clutch adjustment

[Truckie]

I'm trying to adjust the clutch on my 2000 FXSTS. After the last time I adjusted it, the clutch lever was not going to the handle bar, and it was difficult to find neutral. After I adjusted the the clutch this time I can't get the slack out of the cable, and the clutch lever is completely loose. I tightened and loosened the adjuster completely both ways and now it's worse.

Thanks in advance,
Truckie

[RoadKingKohn]

I'm trying to adjust the clutch on my 2000 FXSTS. After the last time I adjusted it, the clutch lever was not going to the handle bar, and it was difficult to find neutral. After I adjusted the the clutch this time I can't get the slack out of the cable, and the clutch lever is completely loose. I tightened and loosened the adjuster completely both ways and now it's worse.

Thanks in advance,
Truckie

Because of the age you might need a new cable. They do stretch over time and use.

[Truckie]

I can understand that could be stretched, but now I can't adjust it to work at all.

[kd]

The balls in the adjuster lever may have fallen out of place if you were working the lever when it was loose the last time you attempted to adjust it,

With a cold engine, back off the adjuster on the cable until the handle becomes loose and gently take up the slack on the lever.  The lever should be almost to the grip.  Next loosen the lock nut on the pushrod adjuster on the pressure plate and adjust the stud in until it bottoms and a little bit more so you can see the pressure plate begin to lift.  Back it out until the pressure plate reseats.  The stud should now be loose.  Turn it in until it touches again and back it back out from that point about 1/4 turn (no more than 1/2).  all you want to do is make sure there is a slight clearance between the pushrod and the adjuster screw. Do NOT flutter the clutch handle yet.  Now readjust the outer cable until the clutch handle moves back out away from the grip.  Set the lever clearance at the clutch mount to about the thickness of a dime.  Try that and see if it helps. 

Hopefully the balls haven't fallen out of the ramps in the transmission. If that has happened from moving the handle when it was loosened off, it will have to be remedied and readjusted.

[Truckie]

I adjusted the cable until there was free play in the clutch handle, loosened the lock nut and clutch adjuster. I then turned the adjuster until it bottomed out and backed off 1 half turn. I was able to get the handle to operate, but it still didn't go to the handle bar. Re-did it again but I backed off the the adjuster 1 full turn. The book says to lightly seat it, activate the clutch to verify the balls are seated in the ramps, which I did. Now I can't get the cable adjuster to take out the slack at all. I'm thinking the balls are not seated.

[Hossamania]

Try kd's method

[kd]

You don't know if it bottomed out unless you see the pressure plate lift.  Then back it of and make light contact.  DO NOT back it away from the seated position 1 full turn.  !/4 is plenty.  Your cable should still be slack and need to be lengthened to give the correct 1/16 (ish) clearance at the lever. As the engine and transmission gets hot, that clearance will grow. Your problem will get worse if you give it too much clearance..

[Truckie]

kd
The balls in the adjuster lever may have fallen out of place if you were working the lever when it was loose the last time you attempted to adjust.
Do you mean the balls on the ramps in the transmission?

[kd]

Yes.  But until you confirm your methods are correct it's just a guess about what can happen by using the wrong procedure.  If you understand what I wrote earlier, try starting over and using that method.  You may find joy.  Remember that you want to see the pressure plate rise to confirm the adjuster is seated to the pushrod.  Back it off and then reconfirm pushrod contact.  Then back off 1/4 turn. Then adjust the cable out to move the clutch hand lever to 1/16 clearance at the mounting.

[Truckie]

OK. I will try to re-do it as you say. Thanks

[FSG]

you need to make sure the inner ramp is in the home position before you go any further ....

remove the Trannie Dipstick and take a look, if need be push the ramp arm rearward with a screw driver

[FSG]

I add a spring to ensure the ramp always go back to the home position with a slack cable and adjuster

[kd]

    The return spring on the clutch cable is one of the best suggestions ever made on this site.  I suggest that anyone removing the transmission cover do it.

[14Frisco]

   The return spring on the clutch cable is one of the best suggestions ever made on this site.  I suggest that anyone removing the transmission cover do it.

And originally suggested back in 1990 by HD in Tech Tip #19.

[Robb1178]

I'm trying to adjust the clutch on my 2000 FXSTS. After the last time I adjusted it, the clutch lever was not going to the handle bar, and it was difficult to find neutral. After I adjusted the the clutch this time I can't get the slack out of the cable, and the clutch lever is completely loose. I tightened and loosened the adjuster completely both ways and now it's worse.

Thanks in advance,
Truckie

When I had that problem with my 2003 heritage I replaced my cable & friction plates then adjusted per service manual and I've been 8k trouble free miles

[FSG]

And originally suggested back in 1990 by HD in Tech Tip #19.

 

[FSG]

.... and cut that dipstick off   

[Hilly13]

1990! Strewth it was a full 18 years later that I discovered HTT, the spring is a genius mod, will remember that one.

[FSG]

And originally suggested back in 1990 by HD in Tech Tip #19.

True as I indicated earlier .......  BUT there we're only a few outside of HD that knew of it via the Tech Tip and for their own reasons kept it to themselves  ....... 

for sure HTT wasn't around then but Word of Mouth was and the benefit of the spring didn't travel very far, my '90 Ultra Classic had 15Deg Ramps and knowledge of the spring sure would have been a benefit prior to when I changed ramps and added a spring years later .....

HTT helped bring that and a lot of other information to the HD Motorcycling Community   

[cheech]

And originally suggested back in 1990 by HD in Tech Tip #19.

Were you a tech back then and remember that or what?

[kd]

I adjusted the cable until there was free play in the clutch handle, loosened the lock nut and clutch adjuster. I then turned the adjuster until it bottomed out and backed off 1 half turn. I was able to get the handle to operate, but it still didn't go to the handle bar. Re-did it again but I backed off the the adjuster 1 full turn. The book says to lightly seat it, activate the clutch to verify the balls are seated in the ramps, which I did. Now I can't get the cable adjuster to take out the slack at all. I'm thinking the balls are not seated.

You're trying to reinvent the wheel.  The cable won't take the slack out now because you added it to the adjuster at the clutch pressure plate by turning it out 1 full turn.  You also did not confirm the plate would lift when you wound it down past the light contact point you feel is important.   

Before you retry, after loosening off your outer cable, remove your transmission dip stick and with your cable adjuster slackened off, check that the lever at the end of the cable inside the transmission (directly under the dip stick hole) is fully retracted by using a screwdriver like FSG explained to you in an earlier post by pushing it to the rear. If it moves and you lose slack at the lever you may have found one of the reasons why your adjustment is not working out. Also confirm each end of the cable is correctly seated in the transmission and clutch lever ends (including the furrel). It may be dislodged from your previous try's.

Now it's loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster screw in.  DO NOT stop until you see the clutch pressure plate lift.  Forget about the light contact info for now.  After you confirm your adjuster is actually pushing hard enough to lift the plate you can back it off until the plate just returns and you feel the screw feel loose. Then you can wind it  back in to the light contact point you have been practicing. Now, like I said before, DO NOT wind it back out any more than 1/2 turn.  I like a little less because when the engine gets hot that will increase.  Also when you tighten the lock nut (while holding the screw at the set point) it pulls the screw to the top of the threads technically adding a little more free play gap to the pushrod.

Now you readjust the cable making the outer longer until the gap at the lever closes to about the thickness of a dime.  Next, actuate the lever and watch the clutch plate lift. If you do all these things it should work. If not recheck that the cable ends are properly fitted into the end home positions and furrel.

[Truckie]

I took out the dipstick and the end of the cable is not directly under the fill hole. It is more towards the back. I tried to move the arm back, but it didn't move. Exhaust pipe is in the way of trying to move it. I used your method of tightening the adjuster until the clutch plate moved, backed it off, tightened it again till it moved, then backed off until just contacting and backed off 1/4 turn and torqued the lock nut. Tried to adjust the cable and I can't get any tension on the cable. Pretty sure I did it as you suggested. What next?

[Ohio HD]

Transmission side cover has to come off. You might have a damaged release bearing, or some other issue with the release mechanism.

[Hossamania]

It may be time to open up the side cover and look at the ramps and balls, throw out bearing, slinger, circlip, cable.
Might also have to remove the adjustment rod to inspect that.

Edit: Ohio beat me to it.

[Truckie]

WOO HOO! I GOT IT! Apparently I was adjusting the cable the wrong way. I was turning the adjuster clockwise instead of counter clockwise. I turned the adjuster all the way up (counter clockwise) Re-did the adjusting rod and was able to adjust the cable so that the handle cable gap is approximately 1/16- 1/8th inch. Now the clutch handle goes to the grip and neutral is easy to find.
Thank you to everyone who helped me through this crisis.