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2014 SE Compensator Chatters on Slow Take Offs

Started by DrSpencer, July 12, 2023, 08:00:59 PM

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DrSpencer

2011 Street Glide w/40K. I've had every version compensator HD has ever offered for this bike since I got new in 2011.

Presently has 2014 SE comp that was put in ~20K miles ago. I vaguely remember it chattering during slow take offs, or whenever doing slow-cone practice exercises.

Later, I distinctly remember removing the 2014 comp, measuring the spring pack (per instructions of this Forum), and adding 1 shim. Pretty sure this comp also has the groove on the ramp, which according to HD, negates the need for any shims. Regardless, I measured and added the appropriate number of shims.

That seemed to quiet it down, for a while. I now have the familiar slow take off chatter, along with a metallic 'whine' whenever I cruise steadily at ~3K RPM.

What do you suggest? Remeasure and add more shims? Get a brand-new comp? Pretty sure my 2014 is the most up to date version, no? How many miles should I expect these questionable-quality comps to last?

I'm sure there are many aftermarket solutions, but I would prefer to stay with HD parts.

Thanks

Ohio HD

Two shims is generally what works best. They aren't that thick, it won't hurt t have two. Also depending on the age of the compensator, the springs do loose tension over time. I've replaced them on both of my bikes as the compensators are in great shape.

Some guys have added one small spring extra in lieu of shims and it has seemed to help.

harpwrench

As far as how long they should last, all I can say is that the original one in my '16 limited is still quiet at 115k. More than half those miles have been with over 130hp and every stop sign out in the country is my personal drag strip. I don't know why some have problems and others don't  :nix:

kd

As Ohio says 2 shims worked best for me too.  I had a rattle from cam lope at idle that needed the extra help.  Also the rough surface will wear in from the wiping action making it necessary. It wouldn't hurt to remeasure and have a shim on hand in case you heed one now that you're an old hand at it.  I somehow expect it may have more to do with the low rpm you are at causing it like lugging does.  I personally don't think the whine is comp related but more primary chain.  Even more reason to take of the primary cover to inspect the tensioner pad and adjustment while going in foe the comp.  The chain may have over adjusted or be to loose.  Be sure to use a good oil too.
KD

DrSpencer

Quote from: Ohio HD on July 12, 2023, 08:08:26 PMTwo shims is generally what works best. They aren't that thick, it won't hurt t have two. Also depending on the age of the compensator, the springs do loose tension over time. I've replaced them on both of my bikes as the compensators are in great shape.

Some guys have added one small spring extra in lieu of shims and it has seemed to help.

Can I buy just the springs for my 2014 SE comp?
Thanks

Ohio HD

Yes, there's a parts break down on the compensator sheet that came with your new compensator. I think I'd try more shim first.

kd

Quote from: Ohio HD on July 12, 2023, 08:18:59 PMYes, there's a parts break down on the compensator sheet that came with your new compensator. I think I'd try more shim first.

 :agree:   And less expensive at $5.00
KD

DrSpencer

Quote from: kd on July 12, 2023, 08:13:21 PMAs Ohio says 2 shims worked best for me too.  I had a rattle from cam lope at idle that needed the extra help.  Also the rough surface will wear in from the wiping action making it necessary. It wouldn't hurt to remeasure and have a shim on hand in case you heed one now that you're an old hand at it.  I somehow expect it may have more to do with the low rpm you are at causing it like lugging does.  I personally don't think the whine is comp related but more primary chain.  Even more reason to take of the primary cover to inspect the tensioner pad and adjustment while going in foe the comp.  The chain may have over adjusted or be to loose.  Be sure to use a good oil too.

Pretty sure I have a newer-than-2011 version of HD's primary chain tensioner in there now. Not a SE, but standard HD.

I briefly had a Hayden. But when I installed it, the chain seemed tighter than ever. I took it out after ~500 miles and went back to the HD.

How many miles should I expect to get out of a primary chain tensioner?

Thanks

DrSpencer

Quote from: kd on July 12, 2023, 08:20:36 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on July 12, 2023, 08:18:59 PMYes, there's a parts break down on the compensator sheet that came with your new compensator. I think I'd try more shim first.

 :agree:  And less expensive at $5.00

Good to know. I'm pretty sure I already have extra shims from my last adventure.

Should I just remeasure, and do whatever my findings suggest (2 shims, 3 shims, 1 small spring, etc.), or just replace the entire spring pack?

Thanks

Ohio HD

You only buy new springs when you know yours are weak. Shim it either by the HD shim OR try one small extra spring. Not both.

kd

Quote from: DrSpencer on July 12, 2023, 08:21:55 PM
Quote from: kd on July 12, 2023, 08:13:21 PMAs Ohio says 2 shims worked best for me too.  I had a rattle from cam lope at idle that needed the extra help.  Also the rough surface will wear in from the wiping action making it necessary. It wouldn't hurt to remeasure and have a shim on hand in case you heed one now that you're an old hand at it.  I somehow expect it may have more to do with the low rpm you are at causing it like lugging does.  I personally don't think the whine is comp related but more primary chain.  Even more reason to take of the primary cover to inspect the tensioner pad and adjustment while going in foe the comp.  The chain may have over adjusted or be to loose.  Be sure to use a good oil too.

Pretty sure I have a newer-than-2011 version of HD's primary chain tensioner in there now. Not a SE, but standard HD.

I briefly had a Hayden. But when I installed it, the chain seemed tighter than ever. I took it out after ~500 miles and went back to the HD.

How many miles should I expect to get out of a primary chain tensioner?

Thanks

I would say it's lube and tension dependent.  If you get on it when cold and then decell it will adjust up and always be tighter. The newer 2011 up tensioner works fine on mine and I beat on it hard but never with a cold primary.
KD

DrSpencer

Considering I may have to remove & measure the comp several times, what is the Forums opinion on grinding the inner primary cover to make this exercise easier?

Also, is that comp bolt really a 1-time use only?

Thanks

rigidthumper

Should be able to R&R the comp without removing the stator, so no need for the grinder. I have reused that bolt when none were available, but how lucky do you feel?
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Tacocaster

Maybe re-use the old Comp bolt through the measurement process and use a new one for the final install?
Your ride, your choice.

We're all A-holes. It's to what degree that makes us different.

DrSpencer

Just picked up more 0.031 shims (I now have a total of 4) and a new complete spring pack ($96) from HD Dealer today. I'll get some new measurements of the existing comp/spring pack in days to follow.

The HD Dealer told me of a local Indy shop that sells custom shims for this exact application. They measure 0.125 (1/8) inch and cost $30. Called the Indy, who said he doesn't even bother to measure when installing a new HD comp. He just puts the 0.125 shim in every one he services and has had nothing but good results.

The HD Dealer where I bought my parts will happily accept the new spring pack as a return, as long as it's not installed.

How should I proceed?

Thanks

DrSpencer

#15
Back when I upgraded to a 2014 SE comp, I also ponied up for the newer 39929-06B primary chain tensioner.

With only ~20K miles on it, there is very little wear on the 'B' tensioner, and almost all of it is at the front of the shoe. Regardless, I recently started to hear a faint, metallic 'whine' when cruising steady at ~3K RPM. I initially thought this was a comp issue but am now leaning toward the tensioner. However, I am now having doubts about that after seeing such minimal wear on the 'B'.

During my last parts run, I picked up the latest 39929-06C tensioner. Side by side, the only difference that I can see is that the 'B' has a metal wedge, where the 'C' has a plastic (or a plastic covered metal) wedge. I'm reluctant to upgrade, once again, to the 'C' tensioner, as it's probably going to be a waste of $98.

Any opinions on the above?

Thanks

FSG


IronButt70

Quote from: DrSpencer on July 12, 2023, 08:21:55 PMHow many miles should I expect to get out of a primary chain tensioner?

Thanks
FWIW my 17 softail still has the original tensioner @ 102k miles.
No one else put you on the road you're on. It's your own asphalt.

perk_dp

where can i find the procedures and specs on spring pack measuring you guys are discussing  ? 

rigidthumper

#19
https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,68275.msg1169753.html#msg1169753

Put it together, set it upside down on the bench and measure- should be .285" to .305" +/-.015". Shims are .031" each.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?