Clutch slip with 204 cam

[HD-Dyna]

Hi all. I didn't think I would get clutch slip after a SE 204 cam install on my 96ci dyna . I get it especially 90km in 5th gear most noticeable and hard acceleration not as much but I feel it's there. Any recommendations on if the SE spring diaphragm will be good, or go the whole clutch (plates etc) to make sure the power gets to ground. Thanks 

[rigidthumper]

37951-98 will be adequate, as long as everything else is serviceable.

[RoadKingKohn]

37951-98 will be adequate, as long as everything else is serviceable.

I did this plus an AIM pressure plate.

[Arseclown]

Just the se clutch spring is reqd. Anything additional is just wasted coin.
Clutch pull will be a bit heavier

[Hossamania]

As mentioned, start with the spring.

[HD-Dyna]

Thanks for the input guys. I throw the spring in and take it from there . Cheers 

[kd]

Check your clutch pushrod and cable free play at the lever first.  It wouldn't be the first time a clutch started to slip due to adjustment.

[HD-Dyna]

Check your clutch pushrod and cable free play at the lever first.  It wouldn't be the first time a clutch started to slip due to adjustment.

Ok where is the clutch pushrod located 

[FSG]

it sure helps to skim the release plate AND to use a thicker nut

[HD-Dyna]

Thanks FSG for that detailed information 👍

[kd]

Check your clutch pushrod and cable free play at the lever first.  It wouldn't be the first time a clutch started to slip due to adjustment.

Ok where is the clutch pushrod located

The adjustment found in the centre of the pressure plate sets the clearance for the pushrod.  The manual calls for more free play than I described for use with the Muller device if you use one.  Do you have an OEM Harley service manual?  FSG's explanation is a good one but the manual will take you through the procedure if you are unsure. 

As said, check the adjustment before digging in to change anything.  It may just need to be adjusted.  That will likely show up as one of the two adjustments not having any free play.  If you are changing the spring you will still need to know the adjustment procedure after reassembling it.

[HD-Dyna]

Ok thanks KD. I have a service manual but not factory it's a Clymer. And if I change the spring I will still need adjustment thanks for letting me know on that. Appreciate the help and support from yourself and everyone else 

[kd]

A little friendly advice .... Shop around for a used factory service manual (eBay?) You'll be glad you did.  There is no comparison.

[SP33DY]

A little friendly advice .... Shop around for a used factory service manual (eBay?) You'll be glad you did.  There is no comparison.

I used to buy my manuals at the Harley shop, and I have shelves full of them, from Knucklehead and Flathead to late TC's. Shopping around on the internet I have found some inexpensive downloadable H-D factory manuals for M-8 models that I saved to my computer. In a pinch, I have gone to the Harley Website and bought subscriptions to some FSM's when I needed the right information for a job immediately. The nice thing about manuals that are saved to my computer is that I can print a page or two to have specs or instructions that I can have handy on the bench. After doing this since the sixties, I still don't pretend to know it all, and I don't trust my memory for important specs.

[HD-Dyna]

Well I ended up adjusting what I could at home without the proper factory manual lever free play and middle cable adjustment and still had slip. So I took to my mechanic to pull primary check clutch plates. It's still running stock 265lb clutch spring. Anyway this is what we found. Adjustment of clutch is fine. Pulled clutch basket checked plates fibres and they were in good condition so through the Screamin eagle clutch spring in the 380lb and still not feeling 100%. So if clutch adjustment is correct and in spec, the plates and fibres good, heavy duty clutch spring. What else could cause clutch slippage? Anyone know? Thanks 

[FSG]

So if clutch adjustment is correct and in spec

did he measure how much the pressure plate moved when the clutch lever was operated ?

[HD-Dyna]

Ok thanks FSG I'll ask about that and let ya know cheers 

[Hilly13]

When I had my 06 Dyna I started using the Hippo clutch adjustment method, I thought it near foolproof but I don't know if it's still on here.

I've put 204's in 103's with stock pressure plates without slippage, SE spring should be more than enough, I hate to ask, what oil is in the primary?

[Hilly13]

FSG post number 12 on this thread has it.
Hippo sounds it out a bit more in post 15.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?msg=144681

[FSG]

how much the pressure plate moved

is a good indication as to how home the ramps are for starters

[Hossamania]

Are you sure it's the clutch slipping and not the belt?

[IronButt70]

No one has asked about the primary fluid used. I've read where some makers of clutch plates recommend not using synthetic fluids.

[Hossamania]

When adjusting the cable, when getting to the final setting on the cable, I like to pull the clutch, grab the cable and pull it from the perch, then release the clutch handle, letting it "snap" out of my hand while pulling on the cable sheath with my other hand, this will pull the cable to give a true measurement of clearance between the cable sheath and the perch, the 1/16" to 1/8" referenced in post #8.

[HD-Dyna]

I run Harley Formula + in the primary

[Ohio HD]

I doubt that there's any issue with the fluid you use. I assume OEM Harley clutch, and you're not making all that much power with just a cam change.

Curious, how many miles on the clutch?


(1) First thing, ONLY adjust the clutch when the bike is cold. Now once the adjuster screw is loose and turned outward a bit, then collapse the cable adjuster enough to allow the clutch lever to touch the grip

(2) Turn the adjuster screw in until it bottoms and stops turning. Then turn it another half turn or so, you should see the pressure plate lift (towards you). Now back the screw back out, and turn it inward again until it just bottoms. Now back the screw off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Lock down the nut.
What you just accomplished was to make sure the clutch mechanism in the other side of the transmission cover (where the cable goes in) has seated, and then you get a true small gap with the 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

(3) now adjust the cable adjuster outward to take up the slack of the cable. When you have the clutch lever out with very little freeplay, squeeze the lever a few time to insure the clutch is operating and not jammed up.

(4) Put a little slack back into the cable with the cable adjuster. Now place a Nickle between the clutch lever and the clutch lever bracket. You'll have to hold the Nickle there with one hand.

(5) Now adjust the cable adjuster outward again to lake the slack out of the cable. Tighten it enough so that the Nickle is held in place, just held there, not squeezing it to death. That should put about a 1/16" of an inch of clearance. You should be good to go.

Keep in mind that the clutch lever will probably have more clearance when the motor and transmission are at operating temperature.