Help - 99 Softail Clutch Adjustment - Help

[JamLazyAss]

1999 Softail Standard

I put higher handlebars on the bike, and ended up having to go with a longer clutch cable.
I've changed several on Pans and shovels over the years and this basically looks the same.

I installed the cable at the transmission. Then put a lot of free play in at the hand lever.
Next I loosed the nut in the center of the clutch pack. As I see it, I'm to loosen the center allen bolt, then gently bring it in until it bottoms. Then back it off 1/2 to 1 turn. Then lock it down. Then do the final adjustment on the cable for the lever.

I have very little clutch at the lever. I repeated these steps and brought the allen screw in a little more.
It helped a little, but still way too little movement.

I'm taking the rest of the evening off as I don't want to get the hammers out. 

Anyone here have suggestions as to what to try next?

Thanks
JLA

[Fugawee]

A shot in the dark here...before the Hammer comes out.

Is the Ramp and Ball Assembly, as well as the Coupling inside the Cover where You placed the New Cable in the Cover in the correct position?

[JamLazyAss]

A shot in the dark here...before the Hammer comes out.

Is the Ramp and Ball Assembly, as well as the Coupling inside the Cover where You placed the New Cable in the Cover in the correct position?

I didn't know that they could be out of position.

[Hossamania]

Sometimes the balls don't settle into their bottom position. Try "snapping" the clutch handle a few times, loosen the cable adjuster. Do not move the clutch handle. Readjust the push rod: loosen the nut, screw the rod in a little over tight, back it out, back in and out a few times to make sure the balls and plate are bottomed, then back out 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Set the nut (make sure the rod doesn't turn). Adjust the cable (do not pull hard enough to squeeze the clutch), then set play to 1/8" gap. Set lock nut on the cable adjuster.
Hope it works.

[FSG]

ended up having to go with a longer clutch cable

is the inner of the new longer cable protrude from the outer by the same amount of the old cable ?

did you take this opportunity to fit a spring over the inner at the transmission end ?

[JamLazyAss]

ended up having to go with a longer clutch cable

is the inner of the new longer cable protrude from the outer by the same amount of the old cable ?

did you take this opportunity to fit a spring over the inner at the transmission end ?

I'm going to fire up the furnace in the garage shortly and check that.
Can you tell me more about the spring you mentioned?

[JamLazyAss]

I took the transmission cover off and verified that the three balls were correct and that the snap ring was in the right position.
Are the two areas marked in blue supposed to be able to touch each other? Almost as it were a stop?
I ask because they don't reach.
And it almost acts as though the new inner cable is too long.

I'll check this all again tomorrow.

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[hattitude]

Looks like you have a Burly Brand, Easy-Boy clutch kit installed...

You mentioned the cable looks too long... did you remount/reuse the Easy-boy spacers?

Their easy-boy kit requires the use of what they call an "upper spacer" at the clutch handle mount, and a "lower spacer" at the clutch release cover..

If you forgot to add these to the new cable or one fell off without your knowledge, it would mess up your clutch adjustment..

[FSG]

Looks like you have a Burly Brand, Easy-Boy clutch kit installed...

Oh dear .....  one of those pieces of crapola .... sri .... I'm very biased these days

No the BLUEs do not touch



the yellow line shows where the pulling point is on the inner ramp, it for sure isn't in the right position



below is where the inner ramp should bee sitting in the home position, the spring is a shovel trannie top spring that ensures the ramp is returned to the home position

[FSG]

And it almost acts as though the new inner cable is too long.

and it will bee without the spacer at the trannie end of the cable

BUT regardless .....  CHECK that the new and old cables have the same inner cable protrusion at the end(s)

[FSG]

[FSG]

you can see the yellow line where the pulling point should bee

if it were me I'd install a spring, different ramps as those look to be the OEM 21Degs ones, HD went to 19 Deg recently so I'd bee fitting them

[FSG]

your pix look to bee very clean of oil ......  why is that ?

[-deuced-]

Outer ramp installed incorrectly? If the tab on the outer ramp is in the wrong slot that'd explain the inner ramp being in wrong position. The burly instructions and fig's pic both show correct inner ramp cable arm orientation.
Also, note where the eyelets of the circlip are in fig's pic.
As already mention, the "blues" do not touch. But they should be closer together.

[-deuced-]

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Not trying to invoke your proctologist skills but ..................
When the clutch lever is squeezed it pulls the cable and rotates the inner ramp via the cable arm. As the inner ramp rotates it separates from the outer ramp due to the ball bearings between the ramps. This separation pushes the clutch pushrod causing separation of the clutch plates.
In the pic, the cable arm is already at the maximum rotation point. Squeezing the clutch lever is not going to move it any further.

[FSG]

I'll have to re do my CADD to add the 19Deg Ramps

also am somewhat curious what different deg inner and outer ramps would produce

i.e. 21 outer/19 inner ; 21 outer/18 inner, etc  ......

[FSG]

of course there a lots of little (minimum cost) things that can bee done to improve clutch operation

[FSG]

if your in the clutch area bin the stock nut and fit a thicker one, if you have a lathe or know someone that does then skim the release plate

both make for easier clutch adjustment

[JamLazyAss]

Wednesday, March 13th

First and foremost, I want to thank you guys for taking time to offer your help.
You guys were correct that I had a "partial" Burly Easy Boy in there.
There were supposed to be two spacers, one at the tranny, the other at the hand lever. Neither were there.
Which may explain why the clutch adj rod was screwed in all the way.
I ended up taking that little arm off in the tranny cover, which in effect deleted the EZ kit.
Then I re-adjusted the clutch rod "properly" as well as the adjuster on the cable.
Everything works as it should now.
The cover had been off the bike for a few weeks, which is why there was no oil in it.
I like the idea of getting a wider nut. The stock nut is buggered a little.

Again, thanks to all. 

[nibroc]

another good ending



 

[kd]

    If you haven't already, get the return spring mod on the cable at the transmission end.