On the road, dyno-less tune?

[PoorUB]

I am planning some work on my '05 Ultra this winter. I already have a PCIII and am probably going with 95" and Andrews 26 cams. This gets me to the tune when done. I have an exhaust analyzer the runs off 12 volt. I was thinking of possibly mounting the analyzer to the tank some how, (duct tape!), marking the throttle grip in 10 or 25% increments, putting the OL on the back with a pen an paper and doing some actual on the road recording throttle positions and tail pipe readings. Then taking the info and plotting my own map with the PCIII.
Other than the slight silliness and the questionable safety involved, does anyone See why this would not work? Any problem with the stock two into two Ultra exhaust such as getting errors in tailpipe readings from exhaust reversion actually drawing air back up the pipe?
One one hand the whole idea seems kinda silly, but on the other, why not? Assuming I don't kill us both I figure I could get real world exhaust figures, achieved under actual conditions some which are tough to get on a typical dyno as in light throttle light load like in cruising down the road.
Any comments? Anyone laughing their ass off? Anyone want to come over and bitch slap me for the silly idea?

[PanHeadRed]

As long as the sniffer is close to the ex port go for it. I would try to place it at least as close as an O2 sensor.

I use an A/F meter on mine, it seems to work.

A tuner should be along soon to offer better advice.

[JBarrettB]

Problem is that you will not be able to isolate/identify the particular cell you are in at a given throttle position. The dyno uses its load module to keep the bike at the desired rpm for a given throttle position while you make adjustments. For example the dyno can keep the bike at 2000 rpm even at 80% throttle allowing you to make adjustments to that particular cell. Once your ratio is set, all you do is reset the desired rpm and continue down the column in the table cell by cell. The equivalent of climbing a wall in terms of the load on the engine. I hope this makes at least some sense. It is much easier to demonstrate than to explain.

JB 

[Horizonmech]

 Yes it can be done this way and with a little experiance you can get it pretty damn close, go to Daytona Twin Tec W/Site and I believe there are instructions on how to build the sniffer http://www.daytona-twintec.com/TCFI.html

[crazycalvin]

JB, what you say makes fine sense, but it seems like he should be able to get it close.

[Faast Ed]

It would be a huge plus if dynojet has a canned map for your components, for you to start your project with.

Then all you and the wife would be doing is fine tuning the ruff spots.

If you can nail down the rpm vs throttle position you can likely see some gain for your efforts.
Might be kind of hard for her to take notes at WOT though. LOL (I know, that wasn't your intention, just had to say it).

[PoorUB]

Problem is that you will not be able to isolate/identify the particular cell you are in at a given throttle position.
JB 

I figured it would be hit and miss to get the correct cell, but figured clase may be good enough as I don't figure there should be much change in ajoining cells.
Maybe I just need the OL to hold the laptop and plug in the numbers as we go down the road!

[PoorUB]

Might be kind of hard for her to take notes at WOT though. LOL (I know, that wasn't your intention, just had to say it).

She can write pretty fast, soit should work!!

[Faast Ed]

A few years back I had ironed out a few rough spots on my 04 Heritage by doing what you plan. Only a few isolated areas that had some studder.

I used my speedometer as my tach (against a chart I found on HTT speed/rpm) and I had marked off my throttlegrip.   I was very surprised to see how much time was spent below throt position 2 !

I did isolate my studders and I also gained some mileage by knocking off some fuel in the areas that I spent a lot of (non accelerating) cruise time in.

[PoorUB]

A few years back I had ironed out a few rough spots on my 04 Heritage by doing what you plan. Only a few isolated areas that had some studder.

I used my speedometer as my tach (against a chart I found on HTT speed/rpm) and I had marked off my throttlegrip.   I was very surprised to see how much time was spent below throt position 2 !

I did isolate my studders and I also gained some mileage by knocking off some fuel in the areas that I spent a lot of (non accelerating) cruise time in.

Ed, When you did this did you just mark the grip to see where the throttle was when the rough running conditions existed, then do some WAG adjusting in the cells? Or did you have some exhuast sniffer rigged up?

[Faast Ed]

No sniffer. Just eyeballed the speedometer and throttle position.

[Admiral Akbar]

Faast Ed, You da man...    Max.,..

[Faast Ed]

I didn't go for an exact cell to change, but rather a group of cells in the aproxamate area of throt position vs rpm.  Made my changes in small increments. (baby steps)
Worked out for me pretty darn good.

I don't think that I could pull off a tune from scratch like that. Remember, I was just touching up a map that wasn't too far off.
Studder was gone and the mileage improved quite well.