eliminate the chain oiler?

[48pan]

Anybody have a simple diagram of how to run the oil lines to bypass the chain oiler? I want to run the primary chain in a closed system like they do on the later bikes.
It's a 76 shovel
Thanks,

[MMOCGuy]

'48Pan.

Here you go.

NormS.

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[48pan]

Thank you, that's just what I was looking for.
Thanks, again.

[48pan]

Hey Norm do you have anyother veiws of the oil line system. I'm not as sharp as I think I am. Maybe a before and after diagram?
Thank you
PS everybody, ride you're invisable.

[MMOCGuy]

'48.

I dont think I have a before-After. Let me look at my stuff and see what else I have. It may take me a couple of days to get back to you because I have a lot going on right now. I will post whatever I have or, if I don't have anything else, I'll post that also.

NormS.

[76shuvlinoff]

48
NormS has you well set-up there. You just plug everything going to and from the primary. With the oem pump I left a bit of chain oiler hose right on the oil pump nipple, doubled it over and put a hose clamp on it. With my S&S I just plugged the hole.  As per the diagram there is also a T fitting venting the primary to the top of the oil tank you can get rid of.

I replumbed all the lines with 3/8 transmission hose from napa with stainless worm gear clamps, not much bling but functional.  You can take the chain oiler hose leave it connected the the primary and run it up under the seat for the vent.   When you're all done add 6 to 8 oz of your favorite flavor through the derby (until it's up the clutch basket). If that primary drips a bit you do have to keep a real close eye on the oil level.

 I was always tempted to drill and tap the cover for a brass pipe plug right at the oil level when on the side stand so I could check the level and top it off like a car differential... but I never get a-round tuit.    

Mark

[MMOCGuy]

'48.

I don't have any before-after pictures that would make it any easier (In fact, they might not even make sense) so we are better off not even comparing what I have.

76shuvlinoff pretty much gave a verbal "Walk through" on how to do it but, just in case, I've posted written instructions below which I got off of a previous post on the old site.

I hope that, between the diagrams, 76's instructions and those below, we got ya covered.

NormS.


Oil Bath Primary - Sealing your Primary Oiler
It's easy to isolate the primary, you can do it when the bike is assembled, but a cleaner job can be done by taking parts off (ya' need to pull the inner primary and oil pump to permanently plug the connections off with pipe plugs, but you can get by with just cutting the hoses and inserting a bolt into the hose to plug them off for quite some time until ya' can "do it right" at the next major teardown).

First I'll explain the hoses coming from the primary and what you need to do to seal it off. There is a 3/8" vent line coming from the middle of the inner primary that "tee's" into the vent line going from the motor case to the oil tank. There is another 3/8" oil return that connects to the rear of the inner primary, near the inside bottom surface...it goes from the inner primary back to the motor case, where it connects to a fitting just inboard of the oil pump (near the crankcase vent fitting). And finally, there is a small 1/4" line connected to the top of the oil pump that supplies oil to the inner primary, through a small fitting in the middle of the inner.

You need to remove the vent line from the inner and plug it off. You will no longer need that "tee" in the motor case to oil tank vent line, you can replace it with a single length of hose. You will need to remove the oil return line from the rear of the primary to the motor case and plug both ends (as stated before, you can simply cut the hose and shove a bolt in each end, securing it with a hoseclamp...this works, but I prefer to use brass plumbing plugs, 1/8" pipe thread, to close everything off. Then, disconnect the smaller oil supply hose at the oil pump. Leave the hose connected to the inner primary fitting. Run the hose down under the frame, so it can act as a vent for the inner primary. If ya' don't vent the primary to atmosphere, as the lube inside warms up the primary will pressurize and oil may seep out of the gaskets. Again, you can plug the nipple at the oil pump by simply leaving a short section of hose on it and plugging it with a screw or you can pull the little nipple out of the oil pump cover by twisting it back and forth with a pair of pliers, then tap the hole for a small machine screw and screw it shut. As I said, while the plugged hose method works, I really hate the look of short hoses plugged with something and it's not much more work to do it the right way.

Once you have the oiling system disconnected, you need to add oil to the primary. I run straight 30 weight auto oil. Never had a problem with clutches, but make sure you are running a wet/dry clutch...a plain "dry" clutch will act up. As far as oil, it only takes about 1/2 quart or so. Just have somebody set on the bike in an upright position, pour the oil in through the derby cover until it just touches the bottom of the clutch shell and you're set. You don't need to have the chain in the oil, it only needs to be enough oil so it contacts the bottom of the clutch shell...as the clutch shell spins, it'll sling the oil around and lube the chain no problem, guaranteed.

I have set up a few bikes this way and never had any complaints. I have been running it myself ever since I went with an electric start four years ago. It works for me.

[48pan]

Thanks for the detailed instructions. 1 more question. How do you check the oil level in the primary? Is it like on the new bikes?

[76shuvlinoff]

pull the derby cover to check the oil level