HELP!!! Tranny problem

[BikerJim44]

Ok here's the deal. I've got a 69 Ironhead Sporty on the lift that is just giving me fits. Originally the tranny blew up, took out part of the case and it was a mess. The main shaft bearings and race got toasted and have been replaced with all new everything. The mainshaft and clutch shaft took a serious hit and is all new along with a couple of the gears. All the thrust washers, spacers and so on have been replaced with the correct widths. I have had the entire tranny apart, piece by miserable little piece and very carefully and by the book rebuilt everything. The case was repaired and it's all good. One problem is that it is very diffacult to get the mainshaft to fit through the new needle bearings. No, they didn;t shift of any of them come out. Once it's in place and I've installed the plate retainer bolts you can not turn the main shaft. Back the bolts 1/4 to 1/2 turn out and it will turn ok on both sides. However when you put the sprocket on the clutch shaft and turn it in the correct direction of rotation it will turn easy for about one and one half rotations then starts to bind up. If you turn it backwards half a turn or maybe a full turn and then turn it the other way it turns fine for a couple of rotations then it binds up again and only takes alittle bit of a reverse turn to once again allow it to turn freely in the correct rotation then will start to bind again. I can only shift between neutral and first gear. It will not go into second gear on. Only first or neutral. I have checked all the measurements by the book with feeler gauges and everything is well within spec according to the manual. What in the world could be causing this? I am at my wits end and know there is some little thing I must be missing. Thanks for any help. I'll post this in the Ironhead section too but there is so much more exposure here and hardly any responses over there so once again, thanks in advance. Spidey.

[Pynzo]

Either the needle rollers are to small because the case race is undersize, too big because the race is oversized, or you are missing one roller. I'd suspect the race after counting the rollers and making sure all are in place. Wrong sized rollers will try to shift when turned and will bind up on the shaft. Pull the seal retainer and watch the rollers as you turn the mainshaft forward and back, looking for a spot where a gap between rollers appears. The gears will only mesh if there is some motion to the mainshaft. Try sifting from 1st to 2nd will spinning either the mainshaft or clutch gear. Same with 2nd to 3rd etc.
Oversized rollers come in a number of sizes, try passing a thin feeler guage between the race and rollers to judge the size needed. Question- did you check the mainsaft rollers for fit before installing the transmission?

[hd76fxlr]

HELLO, HOW DID YOU MAKE OUT WITH THIS PROBLEM? I HAVE LEARNT FROM MY MANY EXPERIENCES, REPLACE BUSTED CASES WITH BETTER ONES. IF THE CASES ARE NOT BOLTED UP IN A JIG WHEN WELDED, THE CASES WILL WARP. I WILL NEVER FOOL WITH BUSTED CASES EVER AGAIN. JUST MY 2 CENTS.

[xlfan]

You may need a line hone to get rid of shaft bind, as said, the cases may have warped when welded. That could very well cause the shaft bind. Make sure to check for both shafts.

xlfan

[ricochet]

That being the case with welded cases and warpage can it be salvaged with a line honing to the races involved.  I've had the back wall to the case welded for cracks from a hit internally and I'm sure some distortion has occured.  Cases are ready to reassemble otherwise.

ricochet

[nibroc]

been running a '69 electric start right case on my '68 XLCH since 1974---back then it was mismatched cases being a nono--so much for that bs--sometimes ya have to give up on a bad case

[saltcaveminer]

with the tranny out of the case were you able to shift thru all the gears?you may have a bent fork or lever.Salty

[saltcaveminer]

i also might suggest you mike all the rollers for size.coat the mainshaft race with machinist blue and reinstall the rollers.rotate and then check the pattern left behind.also make sure the mainshaft thrust is around .009.if everything was assembled correctly and the binding still occurs, align honing or a different case may be required.Salty

[Pynzo]

Salty-
I've got some of the instructions and parts for the factory race lapping tool, but do not have any info on the XL trans race lapping procedure. I'm assuming that the trap door and clutch gear bearing are used as the center for the lapping bar, but every bearing I've come across has some play in it which would cause slop in the race finish. Is there some type of adapter for the lapping shaft that fits in the trap door?

[BikerJim44]

Pynzo, Got the race line lapped and it's all good. Now the damn clutch cable is to short for the risers and bars the guy wants on it so I have to find a clutch cable about 4" longer than stock. I did get it all back together and it seems to be working ok. Lots more work to do to get it to the point where I can fire it up though. Thanks everyone and you especially Pynzo for all the help. Spidey.

[saltcaveminer]

pynzo i believe the bearing is used when lapping the race.the tool shaft seems to be the same size as the clutch shaft.Salty

[Pynzo]

Thanks Salty!