Break in map for 103, how many miles before I can have bike tuned right?

[09fltr]

Hey guys, I just got the BB kit for my 09 RG put in. The dealer put a break in map with the sest. It seems like it wants to run on 1 cylinder at idle. It also seems like it is running really rich. I didnt want to dyno the bike right after the BB kit was put on. What mileage is it safe to have it tuned properly, it definitely aint running right the way it is. My setup is 103, sest, 255 cams, v&h ovals, se ac. Was I right to wait, or could it have been tuned right away? Also, I asked the tuner some of the questions you guys were talkin about to see if they were qualified, they told me they only do 3 runs to tune a bike. Is that enough, or could they just do so many of these builds, that they have it down to the exact map. Thanks for any input.    Tony

[crazycalvin]

Tony, First of all I am not a professional tuner, but I highly doubt a bike could be tuned properly in three runs (unless they mean WOT for runs and don't count the runs that they use to set timing, ve, and afr tables).  As far as the mileage is concerned, I would not personally want my bike on the dyno without at least 300 miles on the bottom end and 150 miles on the top end.  I am sure you will get some other explanations and recommendations.  Later, Calvin.

[Don D]

Break-in map??? The bike is a closed loop bike. I would be running as close to the proper map available for the dealer build. Bump the Closed Loop Bias up for not so lean running at cruise and break it in. If it is rich and the dealer pulled it out of closed loop you risk not seating the rings properly in the extreme case. Break-in needs a close to right map in all but WOT max MAP pressure as most don't hit there until the motor accumulates some miles.

[crazycalvin]

How rich does it have to be before you have problems with ring seat?  Thanks, Calvin.

[Don D]

Bad rich but still just the fact that it is rich sends up flags in my mind based on what I said. I have one experience with an 08 dealer build where a "break-in map" was loaded and it ran lousy and the later tune was not much better. I suspect part of the problem was it never broke-in right as it had oil carry over. Hard to say for sure. I just am leary when I hear the term. It can be closely tuned now for all but WOT max rpms.

[crazycalvin]

Thanks for the explanation.  Later, Calvin.

[09fltr]

Am I pretty much screwed then, until  I get enought miles to get it on the dyno? The bike seems to run really good, after I get her going, I just notice her trying to miss at idle. The dealer said they just made this map for me to run while the bike is being broke in. It was really responsive before I had the BB put in, I just want that responsiveness back. I can definitely feel a difference in power when I get her around 2500-3000. Im trying to be cool with her until I have at least 500 miles on her. You wouldnt think that the dealer would take any chances with a new bike would you. It is under warranty for 2 years. I wish I was a computer whiz, and could just tune it myself, but I dont want to screw anything up. On the old evo, I could just change the jetting, just aint that easy anymore.

[Valley]

09,We put all of our fresh builds on the dyno.I can data log and monitor all the sensors to make sure i have a good base map in the bike.Just because the bike is on the dyno doesn't mean it has to be run WFO. I like to get 40-50 easy miles on the bike and a good base map so I know the build is ready for a good customer  break-in. Those  first break-in miles can make or break a good motor!

[tomp]

I wouldn't worry about it too much until you have it tuned. However, they should not have had to do anything to a map if they selected one that was close to the build. I dont know why they would have screwed with the Idle.

On that note, I usually set the Rev Limiter to 5K until the build is broke in.

[eddfive]

If a dyno tune is done right the best way to break in a motor is on the dyno.  The mis-conception to most is that when you put a bike on the dyno all the bike sees is WOT.  This is not the case at all or at least this is not what I do.  There is tuning the 0% and 2% areas which takes some time.  There then is tuning the 5-7-10-15-20-25-30-40TP areas on a new motor.  The entire time while doing this the motor is allowed to decel fully and this pressure IMO is what is needed to seat the rings properly.  I now have spent quite a bit of time, shut the bike off numerous times to re-flash, and the bike has been heat cycled and run.  Then I go on and do the 60-80-100TP area, monitoring all of the important engine parmeters during this entir process.  This has worked for me on fresh motors with no ill effects.  I believe a bike needs to be broke in with the AFR's and Timing tables spot on so the motor never really see's rich, lean or detonation. After the dyno the bike is good to go.

[09fltr]

I appreciate the input guys. I wont worry too much then, I have had really good luck with my dealer, they seem really knowledgable. I just wanted to make sure nothing was being damaged. You guys on here seem to know everything about tuning.

[09fltr]

Good news, on the tune. I took the bike back to the dealer, and they went ahead and tuned it. The bike ended up at 82.2 hp and 102 tq. They said the breakin map was just too rich at 0 and 2 tp that is why it was running on one cylinder at idle. Hope it was ok to do wot throttle runs with only 100 miles on the top end. Havent rode her after the tune, im hoping for the best. They spent 4 hours tuning her, so Im sure they made multiple runs to break her in properly.

[FLTRI]

If a dyno tune is done right the best way to break in a motor is on the dyno.  The mis-conception to most is that when you put a bike on the dyno all the bike sees is WOT.  This is not the case at all or at least this is not what I do.  There is tuning the 0% and 2% areas which takes some time.  There then is tuning the 5-7-10-15-20-25-30-40TP areas on a new motor.  The entire time while doing this the motor is allowed to decel fully and this pressure IMO is what is needed to seat the rings properly.  I now have spent quite a bit of time, shut the bike off numerous times to re-flash, and the bike has been heat cycled and run.  Then I go on and do the 60-80-100TP area, monitoring all of the important engine parmeters during this entir process.  This has worked for me on fresh motors with no ill effects.  I believe a bike needs to be broke in with the AFR's and Timing tables spot on so the motor never really see's rich, lean or detonation. After the dyno the bike is good to go.

+1 Spot on to the way I like to do it.