Clutch

[Jester]

Having problems with my clutch adjustments (clutch does not engage fully when I pull it in) and amount of effort required to pull it any suggestions? This is a mouse trap eliminator setup on a 65 panhead with electric start.

[Scooter]

Do you have the "eliminator" clutch hub springs? (They are longer and thinner than the original mousetrap or foot clutch type.)

[Jester]

I have no idea what springs are on it. I need specs for those springs and where/how to buy the eliminator ones please.

[CraigArizona85248]

I've never tried running the mouse trap eliminator springs.  I just run the springs for a stock clutch.  One of the key things I found to help keep my clutch pull easier is to lube the cable regularly.  More so in the winter time it seems.

As far as your clutch not disengaging cleanly... there are a number of things that can cause this.

Here are some things I would check out:

1) Remove your primary cover.  Start the bike and let it idle.  As you pull and release the clutch lever, watch the clutch basket and see if it moves out away from the transmission as you pull the clutch and then back towards the transmission as you release the clutch.  This is a very common problem if you have a belt drive primary.  Can also be a problem with a stock chain primary, but is not as common.  This indicates an alignment issue between the motor shaft on the engine and the transmission input shaft.  The misalignment causes the clutch basket to creep out and makes the clutch drag.  Ideally you should align your motor and transmission properly.  There area  couple of band-aid products that will cover up the alignment problem and hold the clutch basket in place.  Look for a "Ramjett Retainer" or a "Clutch Tamer".

2) Bent fingers on the clutch hub.  If any of the 10 fingers on your clutch hub are bent this can cause your clutch to not release well and make it drag.

3) Corrosion and or notching on the clutch hub fingers.  A lot of rust on the clutch hub fingers will cause your plates to hang up and the clutch will drag.  Also, if the fingers have notches cut into them from years of use, this can prevent the clutch plates from seperating properly and will cause your clutch to drag.

4) Notches on the clutch basket drive dogs.  The dogs that drive the steel plates in your clutch can develope notches in them after years of use.  This can cause your clutch plates to not seperate well and will result in a dragging clutch.

It's pretty easy to pull these clutches apart.  You may want to give everything a good look.

-Craig

[Pzokes]

I'm a firm believer in Barnett clutch springs and Barnett clutch levers.

Barnett's springs have a much smoother pull to them and their levers have a different fulcrum point to give you a little more disengagement on the clutch.  If the springs are painted orange, it's a good possibility that they are Barnetts.

[CraigArizona85248]

I'm a firm believer in Barnett clutch springs and Barnett clutch levers.

Barnett's springs have a much smoother pull to them and their levers have a different fulcrum point to give you a little more disengagement on the clutch.  If the springs are painted orange, it's a good possibility that they are Barnetts.

I haven't tried the Barnett springs, but the levers are GREAT!

[Jester]

Pictures of the clutch hub what do you guys think? If the hub needs to be replaced thinking about going to a belt drive does anyone know how well they stand up heat wise in an aluminum primary?

I have the Orange springs thinking about trying the longer thinner ones

[ridermike]

Check your throwout bearing. I had a(non OEM)one come apart and it felt like the clutch wouldn't disengage fully.

[CraigArizona85248]

I don't see anything obvously bad about your clutch hub or basket.  There is an aweful lot of oil contamination in there though.  These are dry clutches... not supposed to get a lot of oil on them.  I would dress the clutch hub fingers with emory paper to clean them up.  Do the same thing to both sides of each steel.  WHen you assemble everything but just a touch of grease on each clutch finger to help the frictions slide around easy.

ridermike makes a good suggestion too.  You may want to take look at the throwout bearing under the kicker cover.  One other thing, if the seal at the end of the clutch hub nut is leaking, replace it.  This may be where that oil contamination is coming from.

-Craig

[Jester]

Craig,

Here is a picture after i cleaned it up a bit and am trying to show the notches on the fingers Don't know if that will change your mind about me needing to changing them.

Also how much travel should there be in the push rod?

[CraigArizona85248]

Jester,

The amount of notching on your clutch fingers does not seem excessive.

-Craig

[MBSKEAM]

 mine has way deeper grooves and it works just fine...

if ya get the platic retainer RAMJET, your clutch will work much better, and is your pressure plate flat and not warped...
this will cause you all sorts of grief....
I know...LOL
got one of those cheap aluminum pressure plates and it works great also....

mbskeam