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TOOLS 4 ... Inner Primary/Trans Sproket job

Started by DarrellV, December 02, 2008, 02:55:16 PM

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DarrellV

Hey Guys, Looking for Christmas ideals for myself {family}. Planning on replacing my drive belt and pulleys this winter, maybe go back with a new Chrome Inner Primary. But thinking about ideals and things I might want. For others to buy me at Christmas time has me wondering about tools.
What tools are "a must have" to replace the trans pulley? What tools are worth the money to have when doing the job? I've never had the inner primary off before so it's all new to me. I'm thinking about the *primary drive locking tool  580020 *trans sprocket locking tool 620020. From George Garage Tools
http://www.georges-garage.com/trans_primary_tools.htm

Are these good prices? Are they worth buying for the job at hand? THANKS FOR ANY INPUT ON THIS. Darrell

x52gnr

The right tools are a must, I did buy the front trans pully socket, and made my own tool to lock it in place....The clutch hub nut and compensator came off fairly easy. I locked them in place by taken a plastic insulated screwdriver ( electricians type) and put it in the teeth of the pully nut I was trying to loosen and or tourqe. Went off without a hitch and didnt damage a thing....
2012 Heritage Softail
2008 Gl1800 (Gold Wing) Airbagger

DarrellV

Quote from: x52gnr on December 02, 2008, 03:06:45 PM
The right tools are a must, I did buy the front trans pully socket, and made my own tool to lock it in place....The clutch hub nut and compensator came off fairly easy. I locked them in place by taken a plastic insulated screwdriver ( electricians type) and put it in the teeth of the pully nut I was trying to loosen and or tourqe. Went off without a hitch and didnt damage a thing....

X52 Do I need a special socket for the trans pulley?

x52gnr

  Yes it makes the job easier....much easier...lol    georges garage sells em, mine was an 07 so it was a 2 1/4 nut.....well worth the investment
2012 Heritage Softail
2008 Gl1800 (Gold Wing) Airbagger

Sonny S.



Arrowsmit

BTW, pre-'07 tranny bolts are 1 7/8" & lots of us have made one up by cutting a socket in two & welding a pc of black pipe in between. I did spring for the Georges tranny sprocket locking tool (Ebay) & it's every bit as nice as the much more expensive Jims version. Just anodized red instead of green.

VicW.

DarrellV

Quote from: Arrowsmit on December 02, 2008, 04:15:39 PM
BTW, pre-'07 tranny bolts are 1 7/8" & lots of us have made one up by cutting a socket in two & welding a pc of black pipe in between. I did spring for the Georges tranny sprocket locking tool (Ebay) & it's every bit as nice as the much more expensive Jims version. Just anodized red instead of green.

VicW.
What is it that makes this nut on the trans. so different? That it needs, or easier to remove with a "special socket? Anyone have a pic of their "homemade" socket? A picture of one might help me understand more. And a picture will help me understand how to make one for myself. My bike is an 02 so 1 7/8" is what I need. Is this socket made "long" like a super deep well socket to clear the out side of the trans pulley?   

Sonny S.

take a look in the  " homemade tools " section

Bakon

Do you need the locking bar if you use the little stepped ramp? I heard of just jamming a rag in the chain to hold it. Anyone do it this way?
wasting time

Justpassingas

What is it that makes this nut on the trans. so different? That it needs, or easier to remove with a "special socket? Anyone have a pic of their "homemade" socket?


Its not the nut thats different ....The mainshaft that the nut is on sticks out of the tranny requiring a deeep socket....I posted a pic in home made tools of the one I made...Mine happens to be 2 1/8 for a 98RK


Check out Harley Hogs link for belt replacement and you may want to use the heavy duty belt for sidecars while you have it apart

http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/belt%20install%201.htm

For Duty and Humanity

drhooligan

How about using a rag and an impact gun. I wanna put the 30T trans. sprocket on a Dyna. What a PIA.
2007 FXDWG 120", Hillside Stage 3 Heads, 10.6:1, TW777, V&H 2:1, HPI55, 5.3 g/s

Norton Commando

I've used a folded rag between the primary chain and sprocket many times to remove the sprocket nut; it works great and you can always find it!
Remember, you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house.

DarrellV

You guys are right. I should have looked myself in the "HOME MADE TOOLS" section. Before I posted for help on the matter {My Bad  :horse:}.

Does the bar work good compared to the small step tools? I know price wise I guess as long as it works it's better. guess I'll make me a socket as well, not sure why GG sells them for so much doesn't look like much other than a longer deep well socket. I think a spacer for the shaft would be nice to have so you don't bang your shaft taking nut loose. Some times "Banging Your Shaft" isn't a "Good"thing you know.

smoserx1

December 03, 2008, 01:00:54 PM #14 Last Edit: December 07, 2008, 05:09:02 PM by smoserx1
Been there and done that, belt and all.  Actually I have had the inner primary off about 5 times now.  Here are some of the tools I have used.  I went to Harbor Freight and got their ¾ inch socket set.  It has the sockets you need to remove the compensator nut and clutch hub, and the set comes with a nice 18” breaker bar.  It also has a 1&7/8 inch socket if you want to make your own tranny pulley socket.  I went to Lowes or Home Depot & bought a piece of ¼ inch steel stock and made the jam bar illustrated in the harleyhog site.  I smoothed the ends with a bench grinder.  I did get the pulley locker from Georges garage although harleyhogs shows you how to lock up your tranny.  I also found a store on ebay here

http://stores.ebay.com/dennis51harley

This is where I got the trans socket and the inner race remover.  If you elect to replace your 5th gear mainshaft seal, you need to remove the inner race.  I recommend changing all 4 seals in the tranny and 2 in the primary if you are going this far.  Anyway, you might be able to get that race off with a bearing separator and gear puller if your don’t plan to put it back.  Lots of folks thing that 2 piece bearing in the primary sucks the way the inner race is pressed onto the mainshaft, and replace the entire bearing with a one piece unit from Baker.  Something to think about.  Anyway, if the belt is replaced the pulley’s need to be replaced as well, especially the one on the tranny.  You MIGHT be able to get by leaving the one on the rear wheel.  I replaced both of mine when I did the belt.

Here is where you can get a good shifter shaft seal for your tranny:

https://www.applied.com/apps/commerce/catalog/catalog.do?e=10&s=1499011&r=0&type=a&mp=4260


wrenchspinner3

With regards to the new jack shaft seal: is there an HD Service bulletin regarding the correct way to install the seal, or is it shown in later model service manuals? I did a belt replacement on a 2003, and am pretty sure I installed the new seal with the protrusion pointing towards the starter. Of course he had the original '03 seal, and when I ordered a new seal, the part number was superceded to the new one. There hasn't been any starting problems so far, but it was done late in the season and probably wasn't ridden all that much before being stored.
Thanx for any replies....

smoserx1

The parts book I have is for my 99, so I don't know if the later illustrations show it.  The first time I did it I installed the seal with the protrusion pointing to the starter and all I got was a click from the solenoid.  After about 20 attempts,the bike finally started and continued to start ok, so I presumed (in retrospect) the solenoid "tapped" on the seal until it drove it to the left enough to start the bike.  If your bike started OK after the installation it should stay that way.  I can't see the seal walking toward the starter.

At the time I was chasing a leak which turned out to be a 5th gear/mainshaft seal, so in about a week and realizing I had not solved the leak, out came the primary again, and this time I put in a seal facing the other way, which I think is right, but now I wonder if it really matters??


Thanks for that info.

FSG

Quoteis there an HD Service bulletin regarding the correct way to install the seal ......

HERE

wrenchspinner3

OK, Thanx. I see I installed the seal with the correct orientation (protruding part of the seal facing the starter).Whewww....... :up: