'69 T/O bearing question....the saga continues

[bigcat]

Hello all...I'm a new "old" member who just found the new site. I have a question I hope someone can help with. I have a 1969 FLH that I believe to have the stock transmission. I had a clutch problem and found the pushrod almost welded to the adjuster on one end and the wafer bearing on the other. My Harley service manual shows the old type heavy duty bearing instead of the wafer so someone must have "updated" it at some point (I've owned it 15 years). I ordered a replacement old style heavy duty bearing and a new pushrod for a '65-'69. Is that all I need to change over? Did it have a C clip on the bearing end? BTW...a Clymer manual I have shows only the wafer style bearing??? Thanks in advance for the help.
bigcat

Well...I replaced the t/o bearing with the old style, pushrod and adjuster. Adjusted the clutch, put it all back together added trans oil and primary fluid and went down the street. Within a block it did the SAME THING again. Welded the adjuster to the push rod. What could I be doing wrong? I dressed the end of the push rod, dressed the end of the adjuster, pulled the clutch shell apart (looked okay), put it all back in and rode 3 blocks and all SEEMED okay but the the generator light came on so I came back to the barn and quit for the day. Any ideas why this is happening?
bvigcat

[ragnar64]

some after market kicker covers will not accept the old style throw out bearing

[bigcat]

Sorry...I wasn't clear. It's a electric start only...no kicker. The cover appears to be original.

[Lew]

The early style throwout bearing assemblys don't use a C-clip.  Running with low gear oil level will usually result in the throw out bearing and pushrod (and adjuster screw) heating up and toasting as you describe.  Might check for a leaking main seal or tranny mounting studs to keep it from happening again.  You didn't mention you were replacing the adjusting screw.  It's contact end is hardened and will not hold up if simply cleaned up and reused after being toasted.  Best to replace it also.  Good luck!

Lew     

[bigcat]

Thanks Lew...I bought a new adjuster also. So I'm taking it that this is simply a swap out procedure and the T/O bearing is held in place by just the pushrod pressure pushing it against the fork when adjusted correctly?
bigcat

[dave_9113]

Bigcat- you are going to need the right clutch bearing for the old style heavy duty bearing.  Best to show you in a picture.  Here's the kit, and it's the small bearing in the picture.

http://www.debrix.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=39017-K1

The current one you have in there won't have a small metal ball indented to the outside of this bearing.  Will need to lightly heat the old one and pop it off, if you don't have a pulley.  That's how I did mine.  Good upgrade back though, because the old style bearing are indestructable. 

dave

[Lew]

Thanks Lew...I bought a new adjuster also. So I'm taking it that this is simply a swap out procedure and the T/O bearing is held in place by just the pushrod pressure pushing it against the fork when adjusted correctly?
bigcat

That's correct.

Lew
 

[bigcat]

Thanks Lew & Dave. I think I'm on the right track now.
bigcat

[Dennman]

bigcat,sounds like your adjuster screw is running in contact w/ the pushrod at all times.You need a small gap between the two when runnin down the road.After screwin it in to get your proper position for the clutch release arm,then back off the adjuster screw a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.This will give a small space between the adj.screw and pushrod so that ya don't get the heat created, the weldin together or mushrooming of the screw.

[easyricer]

I have the old style throw out bearing in mine and have yet to have a problem with it. I should say that when I bought the bike it came with the wafer in it and, you guessed it, it was broken. I had the bearing rod and adjuster here at the house from a previous build. I had to rework the rod a touch to make it work though. The end going into the bearing didn't fit so I just filed it down to where it needed to be and I used a drill to put a small dimple in the adjuster end. I put a 1/4 ball bearing in between the adjuster and the rod. I packed it in grease to hold the bearing during assembly.
Been working great for the last year. Tranny is down for rebuild right now and all my T/O parts still look great!
EASY

[76shuvlinoff]

Yeah you need some free play or you toast the rod and the bearing.

Now I had an OF tell me he used to clean up the worn end of the rod heat it cherry red and quench it in oil.

Just something I was told along the way. No warranty expressed or implied, end user accepts all responsibility for such actions..... blah blah blah.

-Mark