how do i static timing a 79 flh with points

[bigmic]

where should tdc mark be.in middle of hole or at edge of hole as it comes around.then point have been set at .018. then do i turn timing plate clockwise till the test light just lites up or do i turn the cam to fully open the advance weights and when weights are fully open then set the points to just lite up test lamp. can somebody help. i read the section on hawg ryder but this says nothing about turning the points cam to set timing just turn points plate till test light lites up. im confused

[randallwhitman]

Haven't set points in a LONG time, but I'm pretty sure you want the front cylinder at the advance mark on the compression stroke, not the TDC mark, with the weights fully advanced.  Randy

[dave_9113]

where should tdc mark be.in middle of hole or at edge of hole as it comes around.then point have been set at .018. then do i turn timing plate clockwise till the test light just lites up or do i turn the cam to fully open the advance weights and when weights are fully open then set the points to just lite up test lamp. can somebody help. i read the section on hawg ryder but this says nothing about turning the points cam to set timing just turn points plate till test light lites up. im confused

Answer to your question:  once points gap is set, you leave cam alone.  Just turn the plate to static time. 

On your 79, the TDC will be a small drilled dot on the flywheel, low on the timing hole.  Looking straight into your timing hole, divide the hole into half.  You want your dot to be in the right half.  You want to set the points plate so the points are just beginning to open at the leading edge of the narrow lobe on your points cam.  Connect a 12 volt DC volt meter with the negative lead to a good ground and the positive lead to the wiring terminal on the points.  As a starting point, loosen the ignition plate screws and turn the plate ALL the way counterclockwise so it's fully retarded and the points are closed (no voltage)...slowly turn it back clockwise until the very instant the meter shows battery voltage or the test lamp lights...STOP!! Lock down your plate.  You now are staticly timed.  (short paraphrase from HR).

dave

[bigmic]

thanks dave this is exactly what i have done. its just that a lot of people are saying to turn the points cam to fully open advance weights

[shadow]

like randy, it's been awhile since i've done points, but i do remember setting them on the advance mark. I have a small tool that allow me to lock the lobe in the advance position. I then position the flywheels to get the advance timing mark in the hole (i put it in the left side of the hole), then i position the breaker plate to get the light to light as described.

[dave_9113]

thanks dave this is exactly what i have done. its just that a lot of people are saying to turn the points cam to fully open advance weights

Static timing with advance is more accurate for road condition and that will work for you too.  It's a little more tricky to get the weights to advance outwards.  There is a technique of drilling a hole in the plate to get to the weights to advance them out.  I'd just do the retard method  and follow up with a timing light.  I'm really close enough where I just static time the darn thing and it's good enough.  Again, I have a '67 Shovel so it's a little different from yours. 

Save your pennies and get a Hi-4Crane nose cone electonic module and you will love it.  Save the points for spare. 

dave

[baldoldfxr]

You can remove the points cam centre centre bolt {make sure you keep the advance unit in place} & using a couple of larger washers under the bolt head replace it while holding it at full advance the washers will lock the cam in place for you , dont over tighten it -just enough to hold it in place. once timed up just remove the washers ,again checking the advance unit is still on its locating pin replace bolt away you go,sounds complicated but its pretty easy & quick, an alternative is a little locking device to hold the cam on advance available from most of the aftermarket catalogues.

[randallwhitman]

I'm with Dave......fully electronic is definitely the way to go.....no real moving parts....zero maintenance.  You put the flywheels at TDC on the front cylinder and rotate the ignition plate very slowly until the little LED light comes on.  Then you lock down the ignition plate and you're more or less done.  After that, you just select the most advance that the motor can stand without detonating.  AND.....no oil in your face.  All your timing is done with the little switches on the face of the ignition plate.  Mine is a Compufire, and it's been solid as a rock for over ten years.      Randy

[Pilgrim]

Connecting a light to the points works for static timing, but I like this idea better.  It's more precise and doesn't require having the points turn on a light.

Take a radio, even just a ten dollar pocket radio.  Turn the volume up and tune it to an AM null, someplace on the dial there's no signal, just static.  Turn the points as you would for any other method and listen for static on the radio.  As the points begin to open you'll hear a "POP" and some static.  That'll happen even before a light comes on.

And if you are busted down out on the road somewhere west of Moose Nuts, Montana and you have to set them, place a piece of cellophane (like a cigarette package wrapper) between the points and watch for it to slip as they open.  That stuff is only about .001 (I may be misrecollecting, but that's not too far off) thick, so they don't open far to let it go.

Pilgrim

[bigmic]

You can remove the points cam centre centre bolt {make sure you keep the advance unit in place} & using a couple of larger washers under the bolt head replace it while holding it at full advance the washers will lock the cam in place for you , dont over tighten it -just enough to hold it in place. once timed up just remove the washers ,again checking the advance unit is still on its locating pin replace bolt away you go,sounds complicated but its pretty easy & quick, an alternative is a little locking device to hold the cam on advance available from most of the aftermarket catalogues.

sounds good but is this setup for tdc on the flywheel or front piston on advance mark on the flywheel

[baldoldfxr]

That would be for the front advance mark