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B motor balancer drive spocket

Started by Hybredhog, March 22, 2010, 11:38:31 AM

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Hybredhog

   does anyone have a trasher "B" motor crank with a good balancer drive sprocket on it? I've got one with a broken tooth, and Harley doesn't sell just the sprocket, funny thing is that it does have a part# stamped on it (14766-00a). also on that line, from what I can figure, allienment of that sprocket should be in line with the pinion shaft oil hole 180 degrees from the crank pin, this one looks like it shifted during its encounter.
'01 FXDXT, '99 FXDL/XRD, '76 FLH

ThumperDeuce

You can get a chain drive kit #14762-00.  It includes the chain, front and rear sprockets.  This is listed in the parts catalog for my '04 SE Deuce.
Idiots are fun, no wonder every village wants one.

Hybredhog

PS. they are relativly easy to remove with a bearing splitter & puller, after you remove the snap ring.
'01 FXDXT, '99 FXDL/XRD, '76 FLH

Hybredhog

   Thumper, But does it include the FW driver, My book says it has front, rear & a chain?
'01 FXDXT, '99 FXDL/XRD, '76 FLH

Hybredhog

   Well,I guess I'm covering my bases, I ordered a sprocket "kit", and I also called Darkhorse. they said, & I believe them that the stocker is junk metal & they make their own, so I got one coming from them for about $30. I did get it right on the allienment, after talking to DH, so all is well in the world now.
'01 FXDXT, '99 FXDL/XRD, '76 FLH

ThumperDeuce

FW driver?  I only know what the listing says.  My Indy doesn't like the sprocket material either.  It's good to know that there is an alternative if I ever put them back in.
Idiots are fun, no wonder every village wants one.

02FYRFTR

Quote from: jeffscycle on March 22, 2010, 11:48:13 AM
PS. they are relativly easy to remove with a bearing splitter & puller, after you remove the snap ring.
Yes, they are easy to remove along with the pinion bearing inner race.  I applied PB Blaster before I set up my bearing remover and then brought up the forcing screw tight, applied a little heat with the propane torch and it popped and came off smoothly.  My sprocket was almost 180 degreees off from the correct position.  Any good ideas on how to setu for installation of the new sprocket and pinion race ???

02FYRFTR

 :idea: Well, I slept on it and have decided to use a suitable length piece of all thread fastened to the pinion gear retaining bolt threads, the sleeve from my sprocket shaft bearing installer, suitable washers and nuts to force the drive sprocket and inner race on the pinion shaft.  I am going to order the DH sprocket today and make up my tooling for the install. I will heat the sprocket in the oven along with the inner race and install quickly on the shaft with a bit of pressing lube.

02FYRFTR

Quote from: jeffscycle on March 22, 2010, 12:05:58 PM
   Well,I guess I'm covering my bases, I ordered a sprocket "kit", and I also called Darkhorse. they said, & I believe them that the stocker is junk metal & they make their own, so I got one coming from them for about $30. I did get it right on the allienment, after talking to DH, so all is well in the world now.
I spoke with John Dahmer at DarkHorse this afternoon and I have some bad news.  The balancer sprocket is not available to the general trade, you must be a dealer to purchase the item.  They have an agreement with the supplier to only sell to dealers.  I ordered two last Wednesday and I had not heard anything, John was not in when I ordered them and Brad said OK.  I guess, I will have to become a DH dealer if I want to buy the sprockets.  I sure did enough bottom ends last year to qualify but just never got around to it as the repairs were always a pass through to the customer.  In any event, I stuck the sprocket I had in the lathe and knurled the ID a bit, heated in the oven to about 350 degrees, put press lube on the shaft and alligned the sprocket and dropped it on, went about a third of the way on the shaft and then used my sleeve and all thread with a nut and washers to push it home.  Bearing race 300 degrees and dropped all the way home, put a new clip on and ready to roll. 

ridgerider

not to hijack a thread, but what is the life expectancy of the "b" motor balaner drive?? we have a 2000 fxst with about 60,000 and never thought it would need any motor work other than maintence and the cam tensioners for along time

02FYRFTR

Life expectancy depends a lot on riding style.  If you miss shifts,shift over 6000RM frequently they don't survive as long as you handle with care.  Rule of thumb anythime motor cases are removed from the frame rebuild the blancer assembly.  Tensioners,inner and outer bearings, interconnect seal,chain and sprockets, sprocket retainer nuts,tensioner pistons, do a leakdown test on the assembly before tear down and you can reduce some of the cost.

deathwish

I replaced my parts at a 25,000 mile teardown to reduce balancer weight. Looking at the guides told me that I believe 75,000 miles would be a good time to be replacing the guides, bearings etc. Sure it probably will run far more miles but in what condition? I never run things until they break. I would rather have my engines running at peak performance and piece of mind.