How far to tear down to replace crank bearing?

[tomp]

Do the case halves have to be split to replace the left crank bearing or can this be done from the primary side without pulling cases?

I lost my stock bearing in my Fat Boy back in '04 and it's been running strong with the Timken conversion ever since then. I picked up a 2nd bike ('06 Street Glide) to be used as my cruiser and I just don't trust that stock bearing. I want to at least run the new SE Lefty bearing in the Street Glide at a minimum.

I only had 102/103 hp/tq in the Fat Boy when the crank bearing failed and took the entire lower end out (it now has a 103" with 120/120 hp/tq). The new Street Glide is going to quickly approach those same 100/100 hp/tq numbers and I don't won't that same problem here.

[Admiral Akbar]

Need to split the cases... Max

[ameagle13]

If you are going to tear it down to there, then do the Timken conversion.  You'll be a lot happier in the long run since you have already lost one that way are are worrying about the other.

Good Luck,
J

[tomp]

I agree J - I am a big proponent of the Timken crank bearing. I have been riding the Fat Boy with Timken as hard as it can be ran with 120/120 and it has never failed. That new Lefty bearing is probably only slightly better than the late style OEM junk.

[les]

Just to note, some time these big rollers can be a bit tough to press out.  The other day 250, then 350 degrees was not enough heat to have a 12-ton press push out the pinion side roller bearning.  I had to take it all the way up to 450 degrees to make it budge.

[Faast Ed]

If I were to do it, I'd research the places that you can send your bottom end to and let them do it. No worries about whether I get it right or not.
I'm okay with tearing the top end off twice if I missed something, but I have to draw a line somewheres! LOL