Clutch cable

[hotham]

I am trying to avoid pulling the transmission side cover.  I removed the clutch cable from the bars.  To get it free I had to loosen the adjuster on the cable and back off the nut and screw on the pressure plate.  Hooked up the cable again to lever and adjusted everything.  Lever is hard to pull and it won't pull all the way to grip.  Since I didn't remove the cable from the case, I am thinking the cable is messed up in the side case.  No amount of adjusting on the pressure plate screw or in line cable adjuster, fixed the problem.  Ideas?

[ClassicRider2002]

I am trying to avoid pulling the transmission side cover.  I removed the clutch cable from the bars.  To get it free I had to loosen the adjuster on the cable and back off the nut and screw on the pressure plate.  Hooked up the cable again to lever and adjusted everything.  Lever is hard to pull and it won't pull all the way to grip.  Since I didn't remove the cable from the case, I am thinking the cable is messed up in the side case.  No amount of adjusting on the pressure plate screw or in line cable adjuster, fixed the problem.  Ideas?

hotham~~~

Yes, I have some ideas.....in that assembly inside the transmission case (although I believe yours could be different than mine since yours is 1982) there are ball bearings and if they slip out of position what you are talking about can happen......

buttttttt have you taken off your derby cover to do the adjustment there as well....it seems to me that by adjusting the adjuster nut on your cable and removing the cable that you have reentered the need to adjust your cable from the location of your cable where the nut and the adjuster screw tighten as well as readjusting your pressure plate area behind you derby cover.....it's here that if too much is done you possibly can cause the inner workings within the transmission case to become "unsettled" creating the inablity to properly adjust everything....

Also here are some other instructions which I found helpful in addressing how one is to "adjust one"s clutch properly" The Factory Service Manual on this issue can leave you sratching your head, so these instructions @ least for me helped to clarify the procedure a bit more:

If possible, try the following adjustment procedure first. The procedure was recommended by Hippo in previous threads:

1. Loosen the clutch CABLE jam nut and using the adjuster, remove ALL slack (zero clearance between the clutch cable ferrule and the clutch lever bracket) in the cable.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack PUSHROD adjuster screw.

The bottom line is that during #1 and #2 what you do is fully collapse the cable adjuster on the cable sleeve while attempting to pull the cable sleeve away from the perch at the lever.

3. Pull in the clutch lever, it should just touch or be close to touching the handle bars. If it does not touch the bars, back out the PUSHROD adjuster screw at the clutch pack while keeping a slight pressure on the clutch lever until it just touches the bars.
4. When the clutch lever just touches the handle bar, turn IN the PUSHROD adjuster screw while keeping a slight pressure on the clutch lever. When you turn IN the PUSHROD adjuster screw, it will start to pull the lever OFF the handle bars. Back the PUSHROD adjuster screw OUT until the lever returns to just touching the handle bars. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the PUSHROD adjuster screw out 1/2 to 1 turn and torque the lock nut to 6-10 ft-lbs (96 in-lbs).
5. Using the CABLE adjuster, adjust the clutch cable to 1/16-1/8 inch gap between the clutch cable ferrule and the clutch lever bracket and secure it with the jam nut.

Sometimes when new cables are used or if the mechanism is worn, it is possible to push the "hook" the end of the cable engages to over center in the housing. This sometimes may correct itself with above, and sometimes this can be checked/corrected thru the gearbox oil fill hole. It may also be possible, if the center position of the ball and ramp was lost that above procedure may have to be done more then once. Picture in your mind that you are playing the two adjustments against each other in order to perfectly center the ball and ramp mechanism so as to achieve the max disengagement travel while still having correct free play at one and the other.

If the clutch still does not function properly, verify the following: cable lubed, routed, connected and ball and ramp assembled properly.

I might also add, that after I had thought I successfully adjusted my clutch cable with the bike still on my bike stand, I turned the ignition key to on, (lights turned on and instrument panel lit up but NO "N" neutral light lit up.....I turned the key off....and sat there....pondering....back to the drawing board....it was then that I incorporated the above instructions from HIPPO which really seemed to clarify what was trying to be accomplished......another 45 minutes later....after everything was "readjusted" I turned the key back on and was greeted with the "N" neutral light being lit...."success"....

After the "neutral" light appeared on my dash, I then put fluids in for both the primary and the transmission.

Now here is something I would also suggest.....while keeping the bike on the lift with the rear tire free from the ground......I started the bike, and ran through all of the gears along with putting it in "neutral" to make sure while it was on the stand that I had no "drag" while the clutch was engaged through with each gear....essentially I put it into 1st gear while engaging the clutch lever, then releasing the clutch lever I would give the bike a bit of the throttle and watch the rear wheel move signifying it was indeed in gear, then I would engage the clutch, take my foot and stop the motion of the rear wheel and while the clutch was still engaged make sure that once I stopped the rear tire that it didn't start moving again.....then I would release the clutch again and resulting in the rear wheel moving once again and then would move to 2nd gear etc following the same procedure through 5th gear and then from 5th gear back down to 1st gear, then back to "neutral" to make sure it would engage to "neutral" smoothly....I did all of this in about 90 seconds of running the bike on the lift....then I felt comfortable it was ready for a "test" run.....locating "Neutral" has never been so so so smooth....everything works wonderfully....So I would suggest doing this while the bike is on a lift to make sure there is no "drag" occuring on your clutch, thus confirming that everything is working properly. Once this is confirmed then you are prepared to take it for your first "test" ride.

The above is written from a "THREAD" I authored at V~Twin Forum, here is the "THREAD":

3.37 Modification Gearing Instructions For 2002 -2006 Twin Cams    <~~~SIMPLY CLICK AND VIEW

Hopefully "something" from above will lead you to the right answer......I used to be "skeeeeerrrrd" of touching the clutch cable, until I finally figured it all out....lol....now it doesn't "skeeeeeeeeer" me anymore.....and I am not saying it's "skeeerrrring" you at all....just me.....I hated to think about "adjusting" the clutch cable but once I got the above steps figured out all is well.....one wouldn't think that simply by trying to remove one's clutch cable from the handlebars can create such a "minature" nightmare but for some reason this "stuff" is touchy.......if none of this was helpful let me know.....but I think if you follow these procedures you will find "success" as well. 

I know you are pondering do you need to remove that transmission cover" area.....well.....you will know after doing what I suggested above....because it's either going to work smoothly or not.....even "without" starting the "engine" you will know whether it's engaging or "un" engaging properly by the feel of the clutch lever moving back and forth to it's proper position and if you feel a lag or it not fully moving freely there is a good chance the "inners" unsettled themselves and it won't work smoothly......and yes, it's a bit of a bummer if indeed you find this out....because you have to make a bit of mess, although I have heard of some guys leaning their bikes over towards the left enough to keep all of that extra transmission fluid away from the cover so they don't have to drain it....but that seems a bit more complicated to me......

So why did you need to remove your cable from your handlebars to begin with? ? ? ?

Regards,

"Classic"

[Old Crow]

I missed something here.  WTF does the neutral light have to do with clutch adjustment?

[ClassicRider2002]

I missed something here.  WTF does the neutral light have to do with clutch adjustment?

Old Crow~~~

Well thanks for the question.....ummmmm well..........perhaps two things:

1)  that your clutch is so out of adjustment it isn't even moving the gears out of neutral thus the "neutral" light wouldn't turn on in the most extreme case?

2)  the "neutral" light has everything to do with the "clutch adjustment" perhaps.........if your clutch is improperly adjusted one of the resulting factors could be that your clutch lever isn't adjusted properly enough to allow for the clutch to fully disengage resulting in the possiblities of there being a "drag", meaning that you might always be partially engaged even while holding in the clutch lever, thus the "neutral" light may actually not light up.  All I am saying is that after adjusting one's clutch when a cable has been altered or when you are replacing a clutch cable as well or you have removed your clutch shell basket/ring gear ie: anytime an adjustment needs to be made.....before I would remove the bike from a stand....I would turn on the ignition key to the instrument light setting and confirm that the "neutral" light is indeed working properly as it should have been prior to any modifications or adjustment being made.....once that is concluded going through the procedure above as mentioned will only further confirm that all of your adjustments were done properly.....

The slightest of "drag" may not be apparent while the bike is on the ground because it could be so ever light yet noticable if the bike were to be on the stand without the weight of the bike....although the question would always remain just how "sensitive" is that "neutral" light to the "slightest of drags......shrugs shoulders, I dunno......

Regards,

"Classic"

[baldoldfxr]

hotham what year is your bike ? does it have an external clutch arm?.
The neutral light will NOT be affected by clutch adjustment or clutch problems. the switch is operated by the gear selector drum when this is in the neutral position the switch operates,
Clutch problems can make it difficult to select neutral but thats a different thing .

[ClassicRider2002]

The neutral light will NOT be affected by clutch adjustment or clutch problems. the switch is operated by the gear selector drum when this is in the neutral position the switch operates,  Clutch problems can make it difficult to select neutral but thats a different thing .

Alrighty....now say this in english...and where is the "gear selector drum" located?

Ok so if you can't select "neutral" then your light is not going to turn on right? and if your clutch lever isn't pulling correctly to disengage the clutch properly to properly move your gear selector then it can make it difficult to select or locate neutral right? and so how is this a different thing?

Thus, if your neutral light isn't working when it did prior meaning you are having a difficult time shifting into neutral it could all be a related issue.....is my point.....

Maybe my "logic" is a bit backwards here or perhaps it's all wrong.....but don't we "possibly" end up in the same place, if one's neutral light is not working when turning on one's key to instrument lighting and you know you are in neutral.....some adjustment is needed either within the clutch lever cable, or the clutch assembly or the gear shifter assembly.....in other words all I am saying is if anyone is going to adjust one's clutch cable, or enter into one's primary to change out one's clutch shell basket/ring gear....before simply hoping on one's bike for a test run....one should make sure all of the "systems" that worked previously prior to such adjustments or modifications are working at the conclusion of one's adjustments or modifications.

It all seems to work together.....it all seems to me that these all should be working together as a "unit" ie:
1) clutch lever play adjustment
2) clutch cable adjustment
3) properly installed clutch cable into transmission housing
4) properly adjusting the clutch shell basket/ring gear to allow for proper shifting
5) proper gear shifting smoothly running between all gears and neutral at the gear shifter
6) a properly working neutral light.

so say your bike won't find neutral with the gear shifter...ie: your neutral light won't come on besides a bulb being burnt out which is possible.....and assuming the bulb is properly working what are you going to do to make sure your bike is shifting properly to go into neutral....or say your bike won't go into neutral what are you going to do?   Thus what needs to be properly working to have one's bike enter into neutral properly....and if it can't what adjustments would be necessary?

Regards,

"Classic"

[hotham]

The bike is an 82 FXR, but it has been converted over to the 87 and up release set up.  I am going to take a look at it again today.  It has a 6 speed and has always worked flawless.  I took the cable loose to lube it, it is the same Barnett cable.  I have a Rivera Pro clutch in it,  which is the best I have ever used.

[baldoldfxr]

you could try this -bottom clutch adjusting screw them back out 3/4  of a turn & tighten locknut ,next pull in & release the clutch lever 3 times this should(hopefully) centre the ball /ramp assy then adjust the cable freeplay using the cable adjuster not the clutch screw, if this does'nt work then perhaps someone else may have a solution becuase my next step would be to remove the gearbox end cover, let us know how it goes .

[baldoldfxr]

Classic The gear selector drum is in the gearbox, best look at a good manual to fully understand what it is / does,
As regards English have you read your previous posts on this issue ?.
  " or enter into one's primary " - Dont do that I'm shure it's illegal & apart from the fact you waffle on a bit people would miss your input on this site if you were in prison for lewd acts involving motorcycles

[hotham]

I fixed it today.  I loosened the nut on the clutch pack and released the on cable adjustment.  Reset the screw and I had the clutch feel back.  A minor adjust on the cable and it was fine.  I am still not sure what caused the inital problem, but all is well again.  Probably, operator error, again. 

[ClassicRider2002]

".....apart from the fact you waffle on a bit......" 

baldoldfxr~~~

     laughing......   "...waffle...."     

nah.....do I really? ? ? ? ?   LOL.....DON'T YOU DARE ANSWER THAT!!!!!


hotham~~~

Congratulations on getting everything back to "normal" or perhaps even better than "normal".......
so did anything I "waffled" on about help? ? ? ?  LOL even if nothing helped @ least you knew I was tryin....LOL

Regards,

"Classic"