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lifter wont bleed down

Started by akronfxwg, December 09, 2008, 11:11:51 AM

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akronfxwg

I need to change pushrod seals because they are leaking.  Both intake lifters refuse to bleed down so I can't remove the pushrods.  How can I get them out without removing the heads?  Any secrets?  I will cut the pushrods as a last resort.  Thanks

Lew

With the valves closed they should come out after adjusting them up...shortening them.
-It is now later than it has ever been before-

pappyfreebird

December 09, 2008, 02:02:53 PM #2 Last Edit: December 09, 2008, 02:04:35 PM by pappyfreebird
yea r you unskeeroon  them enuff  too...they wont jus pull  out,,they needa be loosind n then they pull right out..i do things right so i nevo toll ya this,,,but ifn yer usin cork rings ya kin simply cut em like 90 degrees n sneek em on in there,,dab a rtv on the cut ,,,many roadsides seen done this way

dave_9113

Don't cut the PRs if they are good. 
What lewy1313 said is right.  When you rotate your motor, you will see the lifter go up and down.  At the down position, you can then adjusting the nuts on your PRs and they should shorten in order for you to take them out.

Pappy posted a real neat trick that few guys know in an "emergency" seal replacement.  I'd cut at 45 degree, but I guess 90 will work too.

Last thing, keep track of which PR goes where so you can best replace them in same location.

dave

fulldress79

Ive also unadjusted the pushrod (on the heel of the cam) all the way to find I still can't remove it.If you try to bleed it down by tightening the pushrod in hopes of bleeding the lifter ,that doesn't work as the lifter sucks the oil back in when you loosen the pushrod again.One time I ran into this was my 81,I was changing the cam,so I just pulled the cam after all other pushrods were out and the rear intake was loosened all the way. Rear intake is the biggest culprit.Next time was on the 79 doing a valve job (just pulled the heads) Ive thought if I had to change a lifter or something like that and couldn't get the pushrod out Id just cut the pushrod with bolt cutters.I think due to variances in machining,and how many valve jobs,and whether the valve stems were dressed down after a valve job affects whether you can get away with getting them out by simply unadjusting the pushrods or not.

randallwhitman

I've just had a couple of martinis, so excuse any stupidness, but stock pushrods won't come out without removing the heads, right?  Adjustable PRs are a different story.  The man didn't tell us which he has.
Freedom Behind Bars
103" Shovel
103" '07 FLHX

Lew

OK now I'm confused....I've never had a problem removing shovel pushrods stock or otherwise.  I have always made sure the valves are closed and the cam lobe is on it's lowest point then adjust them up untill they slide out.......
-It is now later than it has ever been before-

randallwhitman

Sorry, but I've never owned a "stock" shovel......always had adjustable pushrods.  With Evos and twinkies, you have to remove the rocker box tops to get the stock (non adjustable) pushrods out.  What kind of pushrods do stock shovels have.....adjustable or not?
Freedom Behind Bars
103" Shovel
103" '07 FLHX

shovelbill

whats up randall?
the '80 i just got had adjustables in it and was never busted open.
build it, bust it.....figure out why

96flhpi

I had one intake p-rod that was fully collapsed but still about a mm too long to come out easy.  Was able to lift it out w/ a screw driver.  How close are they to coming out?  If it's close like mine was you should be able to get a screwdriver between the lifter cup and p-rod.  Course I was changing both p-rods and lifters so didn't care if I boogered anything up.
Vin

akronfxwg

alright, stock hydro lifters, adjustable pushrods. lifter all the way down.  Pushrod completely loose.  It needs to go down another 16th of an inch so that I can remove pushrod.  I have tried using a screwdriver as a "ramp"  no luck.  Help!!!

ST40

My stock 1973 FLH pushrods come right out every time by rotating the pistons past TDC just a little on each cyl and loosening the adjusters. :smiled:     Marty
Marty

Lew

There is something not right going on keeping the rod in there.  Possibly the upper end is positioned at the edge of the rocker instead of staying seated in the socket causing the lack of clearance.  Being like this would keep from getting any valve spring squeeze when you tryed prying it up.  It also would most likely prevent the rod from getting enough clearance to be removed.
-It is now later than it has ever been before-

baldoldfxr

possibly the pushrod was fitted with the rocker box off ? , some adjustables will not come out without lifting the top, OR some of the kits have different length pushrods for some of the lifters could some of yours be in the wrong place ?

Fat Mike

December 10, 2008, 02:55:24 PM #14 Last Edit: December 10, 2008, 06:19:57 PM by Fat Mike
This is more of question than an answer because I had the same thing happen on my '75.  I ended up using Pappy's suggestion and road the old girl for many more miles. 

Could the issue be due to the fact the valve is seating too far into the valve seat?  IF so, the valve would be causing the rocker arm to push down on the push rod too far to remove the push rod from the lifter? 


Tow-Truck

I had this problem on my pan. I just put a screw driver against the adjuster nut and levered up, this opens the valve a little and alows the push rod to pop out. It is indeed a bleed down problem, as after cleaning out the hydraulic units the push rods had plenty of clearance on re-assembly.

Purplepandan

The valve is sunk too deep. ALL Shovels had adjustable pushrods.

Lew

The valve is sunk too deep.

That was my first thought but it still should lever out.......
-It is now later than it has ever been before-

randallwhitman

Ha!  No wonder I've always had adjustables.   :crook:
Freedom Behind Bars
103" Shovel
103" '07 FLHX

67flh

If you have the lifter all the way down, and you dont want to use a screwdriver to pry the pushrod out, try this... grab your pushrod with a set of vice grips.Wrap some inner tube around the spot you are going to grab first if you are worried about scarring up your pushrod.Once the vicegrip is locked on ,you can carefully pry the push rod upwards using a screwdriver with the tip against a cooling fin and the shaft against the vicegrip.You will be compressing the valve spring to get the bottom of the pushrod clear of the lifter.When you bleed the lifter for re-assembly, you will have the clearance to make it all fit back together

akronfxwg

the vise grip trick worked.  They are stock pushrods.  The lifter would not completely bleed down on two rods (both intake).  After removal I was able to clean the lifter and they both collapsed easily for re-assembly.  As someone said earlier, the clearence issue was maybe 2mm.  New (silicone) seals instsalled, pushrods adjusted and ready for summer.  Thanks everyone!