Removing the oil tank on a 2000 FatBoy (Twin Cam B)

[x1rider]

I was changing the belt on my 2000 FatBoy and while putting the starter jackshaft back on I set my 1/4" torque wrench to 110 in-lbs as specified but the jackshaft rod snapped.
Now I have to remove the oil tank to remove the starter to get the snapped off piece out of there (this is gonna be fun).
I was reading the procedure for removing the oil tank and they have all those fancy tools for disconnecting the oil lines from the tank.  I was wondering if they are really needed or is there a way around it.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Here is a pic of my FatBoy, it has a Zipper's 120" kit, the belt snapped while getting tuned on the dyno at JD's Cycle Works.

[Horizonmech]

the proper release tool is probably your best bet, run down to a good auto parts store or sears even, they come in a set of four sizes and are relatively cheap.....the auto parts store may even rent them to you.....

I'm sure you build something around the shop but cant really see how the time involved or the risk of f*ckup could be worth it, just to save $10.00....

[RevFastEddy]

Dang.. thats too bad.. well, drop the rear wheel and pull the splash guard.. then you can get at the rear bolt on the starter. The front one isnt too bad.. comparitivly..  Then you should be able to wiggel the starter out. If not then the tank goes. If the tank goes get a bew rubber elbo for the botton supply line on the tank. They are cheesy to begin with...
FYI.. I always use the minimum torque setting working on these bikes. If it calls for locktite then I use it. If nothing, I put anti seize on it.. no raw bolts into aluminum. electrolisis..SS is very bad, regular iron isnt too bad till you get some road salts or salt air.. chrome is pretty good...
The chrome hoses going into the top of the tank can be done without tools. Pull the chrome cover back and squeexe the plastic snaplock, then pull them out.... REPLACE the O rings doing this or you will get drips..

[x1rider]

OK, thanks a lot for the advice. 
RevFastEddy, are you saying that the starter can be removed from the rear by removing the splash guard, without having to remove the oil tank?  If yes, that would be great, the rear wheel is already off anyway.

...now, any suggestions on how to get the broken bit out of the shaft?

[FSG]

..now, any suggestions on how to get the broken bit out of the shaft?

I start with a left hand drill bit, you may find it'll just spin back out.  I had a quick look at the tension spec for the jackshaft bolt and come up with 84-108 in/lbs.

[x1rider]

..now, any suggestions on how to get the broken bit out of the shaft?

I start with a left hand drill bit, you may find it'll just spin back out.  I had a quick look at the tension spec for the jackshaft bolt and come up with 84-108 in/lbs.

You're right about the 108, I just rechecked.  Oh well, it will teach me to read better next time, after I spend the afternoon fixing that mistake.  The left hand drill bit sounds like a great idea, thanks.

[Billy]

...now, any suggestions on how to get the broken bit out of the shaft?

....if you didn't use loctite on it, try using the point on a scribe or small pick to back it out.

[crazybastid83]

I Don't remove the oil bag to get at the starter bolts, I use a long ball allen and an extension

[Harleytwostar]

X1,
  A bit off topic but..............which part exactly on your bike is a "Fatboy"!!!!  That thing is sweet dude...........Nice ride.

r/ George

[RevFastEddy]

OK, thanks a lot for the advice. 
RevFastEddy, are you saying that the starter can be removed from the rear by removing the splash guard, without having to remove the oil tank?  If yes, that would be great, the rear wheel is already off anyway.

...now, any suggestions on how to get the broken bit out of the shaft?

Well I did it twice that way.  It wasnt particularly fast but it worked. Stock starter though.. The big PITA was the bottom of the TSSM/Electrical. Take the splash off and it has to be loosened and pushed out of the way.  The rear bolt tool 2.. 12" x 1/4" drive extensions to get under the tank but it came out. The front one the same way. The starter will pull out the back through the wheel well. I got the idea of doing it that way after talking to a mechanic and reading the manual for changing the belt... Hope it works for yoy..

[x1rider]

I Don't remove the oil bag to get at the starter bolts, I use a long ball allen and an extension

That's what I did to remove the inner primary, but I had to completely remove the starter to get to the broke off piece of the bolt.

X1,
  A bit off topic but..............which part exactly on your bike is a "Fatboy"!!!!  That thing is sweet dude...........Nice ride.

r/ George

Well, apart from the fact that it's painted, the frame is still stock, haha!

OK, thanks a lot for the advice. 
RevFastEddy, are you saying that the starter can be removed from the rear by removing the splash guard, without having to remove the oil tank?  If yes, that would be great, the rear wheel is already off anyway.

...now, any suggestions on how to get the broken bit out of the shaft?

Well I did it twice that way.  It wasnt particularly fast but it worked. Stock starter though.. The big PITA was the bottom of the TSSM/Electrical. Take the splash off and it has to be loosened and pushed out of the way.  The rear bolt tool 2.. 12" x 1/4" drive extensions to get under the tank but it came out. The front one the same way. The starter will pull out the back through the wheel well. I got the idea of doing it that way after talking to a mechanic and reading the manual for changing the belt... Hope it works for yoy..

I remove the splash guard and the bunch of stuff I saw behind it discouraged me a bit so I ended up moving the oil tank out of the way, not completely off, just enough to wiggle the starter out.
Lucky for me, the broken piece was sticking out, no drilling necessary.

[FSG]

Lucky for me, the broken piece was sticking out, no drilling necessary

Did it just screw back out by hand ?  If so would it screw in any further by hand ?  Would like to know if it sheared by over torqueing alone or it bottomed out first then sheared.

[x1rider]

Lucky for me, the broken piece was sticking out, no drilling necessary

Did it just screw back out by hand ?  If so would it screw in any further by hand ?  Would like to know if it sheared by over torqueing alone or it bottomed out first then sheared.

I'm not sure, sorry, I just grabbed a pair of vice grips and unscrewed it out.  Not sure if it would have gone further.