CHECK THIS OUT ONLY COULD HAPPEN TO ME!!

[53Pan66shovel]

Well today i go out for a ride with my dad about an hour later were cruising an i start to hear a screetching noise couldnt tell where it was comming from sounds like the motor stopped getting oil well this what happend the lifted block some how broke the studs off in the motor and decided to pop its head up and see what was going on outside! GOD I HAVE LOST ALL FAITH IN THIS PROJECT! im gonna rip into it today and see if i can see any internal damage

[53Pan66shovel]

lifter block

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[53Pan66shovel]

Disturbing PICS!!!

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[Pzokes]

Looks like the bearings in one of the rollers let go.  The other three are probably bad too.

One other thing is that you still have the early inner cam bushing, or what's left of it.  The motor was never converted to an inner cam bearing during any rebuild.  Looks like a chunk of the bushing is missing.  I would split the cases to see if anything fell inside.   

[53Pan66shovel]

cases are wb welded together ha not one of our greatest ideas

[Pzokes]

wb welded??? Do you mean JB Weld??? 

[53Pan66shovel]

ya sorry typo

[CraigArizona85248]

OUCH!  Man, you've not been having great luck.  But rest assured... you will get the bugs worked out and end up with a really nice sweet running machine.  Try not to get discouraged.

-Craig

[ohio-rider]

Please fill us in when you figure out the chain of events which destroyed so many parts. For what it's worth,everything I see in those photo's is repairable.

[53Pan66shovel]

ya guys im gonna take my time now gonna get new blocks pushrods and rollers im thinkning of hydrylics? PROS? CONS? i think that maybe one of the rollers stopped working is what casue it those rollers that been in the bike since 77 or 78 so i guess ill go from there also how can i identify what type of cam i need thats messed up to ill get pics of the cam and pushrods tonight

[MBSKEAM]

that inner bushing  is not busted it looks this way at the top....

you may have lost a roller/bearing, and or the lifter could have had a crack at the end of the mach. slot, it is a square cut and does not have much of a radius, this can lead to small crack that gets bigger, but as you can see very bad things happen if this crack is not seen when the blocks went back in.
are those alum,or cast steel? hard to tell from the pics,
on my engine I have alum, when I put it together years ago, I was told to look at these very close for cracks, and what did I find, a crack only on one but found it and replaced it. I would pull the motor down and look   at every thing, check the runout on the crank, look at the rt case, bearing race to inner cam bushing, inspect for a crack.inspect the oil pump/return side, breather gear bore....etc... those pieces of the block went down into moving gears, so they make have done things that you cannot even see at this point....
it could have been worse, it could have blown out the whole side of your case....

not trying to depress ya but that is just the way it is sometimes.....

if ya do it RIGHT on this rebuild, you will get a good runnin motor that will last many years to come....

mbskeam

how long ya had this bike? I dont remeber from your older posts

[53Pan66shovel]

i got more pics to post ill have them up in a min but my dad built the bike in 1977 from scratch and just gave it to me for my 19th birthday in august and i have been working my Ass off trying to get it running right but im gonna put new lifters cam and prob a new set of rings hopefully that will stop the blowby im having but i think the lifter blocks are cast im not really sure im not good with metals ha but ill keep everyone posted i just cleaned all the metal out and im gonna dump oil in it and try to clean all the rest of the metal i cant see

[53Pan66shovel]

More PICS!

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[Pzokes]

It's easy to tell the difference in lifter blocks, if a magnet sticks to the lifter blocks, they are cast.  The aluminum lifter blocks were only used on the first few years of production.

The early inner cam bushings are a smaller inner diameter than the later camshaft inner roller bearings. Some people used to ream out the bushing to let it fit the later camshafts.  Check the size of the inner bearing surface of your current camshaft with a micrometer to determinine what you currently have.  Look at the camshaft to see if you see any letters or numbers on it.

Those pushrods with the long adjusters look like an aftermarket item that was advertised to give a better pushrod to lifter angle.  I never tried them, and I don't think that they are made anymore.

Does anyone know what disolves JB Weld?  Someday those cases are going to have to come apart.

MBSKEAM,
You might be right on that bushing, it's been a long time since I've seen one.  I thought that everyone had converted by now.  I remembered the opening on the lip being smaller.

.

[Erichill]

There is an optimist for you! JB Welds the cases of his panhead together. That is one way to get rid of oil leaks.  I have no idea how you would seperate those without damaging surfaces?  Good luck.
Eric

[53Pan66shovel]

those push rods where made back in 1977 or so by a man named dudley on long island new york his shop is called dudleys basement still there today he made the push rods and drilled the lifters to give the bike more power and yes someday those cases will need to come aparts but hopefully no time soon if not kick back and watch the show!   

[FSG]

a couple of pix I came across in a thread after I googled " Dudley's Basement "

[53Pan66shovel]

where did u find that stuff

[FSG]

where did u find that stuff

click the word thread in reply #16 as it's a link to the thread

[Pzokes]

53/66,
On that pushrod/lifter setup, I think I remember that the hydraulic lifter insert was taken out of the lifters and a plug with an offset hole was inserted in their place. 

[mark61]

Does anyone know what dissolves JB Weld?  Someday those cases are going to have to come apart.

     Well after considerable discussion and some research by members over at www.HomeshopMachinist.net   the main ideas for getting JB Weld apart are soak in acetone for a good while-over night or longer- and or heat to 600* F will soften it up. After you got it softened use the Jim's crank puller to split the cases. NOT a regular arbor press!

    Couple of those guys really had the hots for getting their hands on the cases as is! ME too if you want to forget about those troublesome things! Have cash and or paypal!

Good luck!

mark61

[MBSKEAM]

54 and earlier do not need a puller, the left side is roller bearings, it will come apart real easy

mbskeam

[53Pan66shovel]

why is that valve white?

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[MBSKEAM]

the chamber looks okay, the valve is white due to the fact that it gets hotter than the intake, the additives in the fuel, your  rear cyl as you can see is suckin oil into the chamber from a bad gasket get the heads resurfaced take off only what is needed to clean up...and sink the steel inserts about .010 below the cleaned up surface.
pull that thing apart the rest of the way...your at the easy part now, inspect and check the true of your crank....trust me on this.....


mbskeam

[53Pan66shovel]

when i took the heads off last night i discovered that, that head had to gaskets on it the other was baked on so well i didnt even notice it