Beside the highway........

[ModelABob]

Well, my '94 FLSTN Softail left me almost stranded yesterday.  I had been back to the 'ol home town visiting
some of my bros, the Christmas routine ya' know.  2nd. to the last stop and I go to leave:  "click", "click", "click".....,
Oh' no!  Long story short, got it pushed started and went to last stop.  At last stop I pulled the seat and was able to
charge the battery for approx. 30 minutes.  Fired it up and headed for home.  After about 5 miles on the local Turnpike
"boom", "pop", "pow", and a couple more too.  $hit..... , but thank God for AAA and a roll-back driver who knows his craft.   Just now I removed the battery and found it dated Jan '04.  I guess it is no good, I've got it on a charger and we'll see what happens.  Now for 2 guestions:  1) I thought once you get the bike going, even if the battery is bad or going bad, the alternator will still pump in enough juice to keep you going?  And 2)  How can you tell if the alternator and/or rectifier is good?  TIA on any replys.

Merry Christmas & AMF/Ride Safe

P.S.  Why do people in cars/trucks "honk" there horns at you as they zoom by you and your scooter on the side of the highway??......

[gryphon]

The following is for checking your charging system. I saved it from somewhere and it covers things pretty well. And yeah, if your charging system is good even a low battery will keep ya going. Although it may have shorted inside of something.

The first thing to check if you suspect a charging problem is the battery and the wires attached to it. If the wires are loose, make sure to tighten them up. If you see any corrosion, disconnect them and clean them off with a wire brush before re-attaching. Check each cell on the motorcycle battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the plates, if not, carefully add distilled water until the fluid reaches the "top" line on the side of the battery. If your battery is less than fully charged, use a low amperage charger (1 to 3 amps) and charge it until the indicator says it's full. If it doesn't take a full charge, replace it with a new one. 
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts

Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle.Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes alot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage reg problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging.

Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.

Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output.

To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.

Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage doesn't increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing it's job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement.[/b]

[96flhpi]

Unlike a car, alternator does not pump out enough juice to disconnect battery and keep running.  Battery charge is alway being drawn when engine is on.  Forgot the numbers, but fully charge battery and check voltage at 2000 rpm to tell if alt. is charging.  Someone smarter than me will tell you what its supposed to be - I think 14 volts or better but can't remember for sure.

Good luck
Vin

Edit - Yeah, what Gryphon says (we must'a been typing at the same time).  I meant to put in that kinda detail, but, you know, football's on.

[Phu Cat]

This is what you'll find if you're stator is trashed.  The 'burn't varnish' smell when you take off the inspection cover is a dead give away.

PC

[ModelABob]

Thanks guys for the good info. in fact I think I'll make a paper copy of it.   I charged the battery up (maybe?)
and I'll go through the motions tomorrow.  That is after I wrap all the 'ol lady's Christmas presents.  Some things do take importance over the Harley.

Merry Christmas & AMF/Ride Safe

[Tomahawk]

My experience with the charging systems, if I determine it's the stator, I also change the regulator. For the cost may as well, also usually before a stator fries, there usually are power surges to the regulator which make it questionable. Saves a lotta charging hassles too

[Hillside Motorcycle]

I'll chime in and say that Cycle Electric Products, are ALL we carry here.
Great warranty, great folks. BTW, they were the outfit that HD had contracted to manufacture the generators, years ago. FWIW.
Scott

[jsachs1]

Scott,
Right on       
John

[ModelABob]

Well, I found out why my Softail pooped out on me and what damage was done.   The ye' ol rectifier plug had come half way out of the stator socket! And I never bothered to look until after I was home.  While reading some of the first replies to my initial message.  A light bulb in my head came on!  Duh.....  didn't the guy I bought the bike from.  Tell me that the only problem he every had with it was the rectifier plug vibrating out!!!    Hey, I'm an old generator Harley man and this is my first alternator equipped scooter, 'nough said.  Fortunately the rectifier is the only part that got fried (thanks for the guide gryphon) and I ordered a new "Cycle Electric" one.   I'll let ya' all know how it turns out when the new 'magic box', my name for the rectifier, comes in.  Now to start a new thread on:  Which is the best way to keep the rectifier plug...plugged in!

Happy New Year & AMF/Ride Safe

[Caper]

You can buy/make a tab that bolts onto the motor mount and goes against the back of the plug to keep it tight. CCI had them,prolly others too.