Lifter block alignment?

[tinkerman]

Stripped the Heritage down last night to start the top end rebuild. It seems to me the lifter block bolt holes are counter sunk.

Does this make sense, and if so do I need an alignment tool to put the lifter blocks back on.

Blowing snow and miserable here on the Island this morning. Just finished the Xmas grocery shopping. Only good thing about the weather is that the stores are not crowded.


Tink

[rdkng]

I bought the $15 JIMS lifter alignment block tool, so I use it.
Is it 'required' dont know.. probably not, but its easy to use.
rdkng     

[hrdtail78]

I believe the manual reccomends aligning them.  I have used 1/4-20 counter sunk screws before.

[psyco369]

do you live near kitchener? if you do let me know I have a full set of cam box tools you could borrow and change the cam bearing while you are at it psyco369@hotmail.com ha just looked and you are east....I got the full set on ebay for like $150 shipped

[tinkerman]

I might be able to scrounge them up around here somewhere.

If not, I'll bite the bullet and buy them, no sweat; thanks for the offer though.

Tink

[Porkchop]

I remember a post over on "Todd's Harley Pics''  that showed how to make a set.  Something  like taking a small dab(That's a scientific term) of epoxy and putting it around the bolt once it hardens then put it head first in a drill press or drill.  Then spin the bolt and use a file to put a taper on it.  Make two of these and presto you have a cheap way of centering the lifter blocks.  I look for some photos of it and you'll see how simple it is.
Porkchop

[d-dog]

I know you're supposed to use the alignment tool, but I've put quite a few evos together without one without any problems.  I'm just careful to completely center the block, using a flashlight. If I'm getting additional cam or roller wear, it hasn't shown up in over 75,000 miles.
Dog

[tinkerman]

I'll likely pick up the alignment screw as this is my first Harley rebuild. Done a fair bit of crank up British and Jap work over the years but from what I see so far this evo is a different beast. I find the specs in the shop manual a bit different to read as well.

Ah well a different experience which is what I enjoy. Have the engine stripped down to the cases now and have a few questions before I start to put it back together. Cam looks good, lobes not showing any significant wear, lifters look OK as well but will replace them. Man, $75 a lifter at J&P for a Jims with the larger shaft, a little steep for a hydraulic lifter regardless of what it is going in, will likely shop around a bit.

Will wait until the new year to posy more questions as it seems feedback is a little slow, likely due to Xmas.

Thanks for the replies and MERRY XMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR to everyone.

Tink

[Lakerat]

Jireh Cycles has the Jims Big Axle Powerglide lifters for $54.95 ea. part #91-291. There will be people who will tell you the stock Harley lifters are better. They are less expensive.

[choseneasy]

Honestly, the harley 18523-86b lifters are as good as anything and easy on the wallet. (especially at a 20% off dealer like Jenny)

[gaillarry]

Lots of good comments about the B lifters, will they work on the earlier evo (1986) ?

[choseneasy]

Yep, any evo big twin from 1984 to 99.

[Norton Commando]

Tinkerman,

I, too, recommend the stock Harley "B" lifters.

You can make a cheap, but effective, alignment tool with a 1/4" screw and a 1/4" tubing ferrule. Simply slip the ferrule over the screw and epoxy it in place and you've got it!

   

[tinkerman]

I was considering the stock Harley lifters and the last few posts certainly give them a thumbs up. No problem running them with an Andrews EV 27 cam? I know this is a pretty tame cam so I figure there shouldn't be any issues. As for the alignment tool, I was looking at an idea from Todd's site that just used epoxy to create a taper but the ferrule idea sounds like an improvement on that.

Two more questions now. Is there anyway I can get an idea of the soundness of the bottom end with it still in the bike? I have a little sideplay in the front connecting rod (haven't measured it yet but it seems like it would be more that the .03 that is spec'd in the manual) and about half as much on the back one.

The cam chest has a plastic breather gear in it at the moment. Don't know if I should change it out to metal or just go with a new plastic one. I figures after 20 years the plastic one might be getting a little brittle. Opinions on this would be appreciated. I am just going to take the next month to price out parts and read any info I can find so that when I so it back up I do it justice. I go away for a months work in a week or so, and it is a good way to while away my free time.

Thanks for the info so far and looking forward to any ideas you have.

Tink

[riden2low]

When I put in my cam, I installed an S&S reed valve. Hey, it is a new idea that works. A little more money than a stock one but I think that it is worth it. It just a pain in the butt to open it all back up if you happen to change your maind later. My cam is a 27 which I like. Now I am going to tear my top end down to have the heads done to let the cam work like is was ment to.

[gofastmoose]

I have lost a cam and lifter. I think it was because i did not use a lifter block alignment tool.
I know of two other bikes, that lost a cam for not using the alignment tool. These bike all put
less then 10000 miles on the new cam.
I had my cam out this winter. I have 25000 miles on my new cam looks good.
I would buy two JIMs lifter block tool. Some place sell one to a kit.

[Caper]

The lifter block alignment tool is also the oil pump alignment tool on TC's. They're not expensive and make it easier to do.
The stock "B" lifter are as good or better than the more expensive aftermarket ones. The plastic breather gear worked for 20 years,so it's your call on a new plastic one or a metal one.

[Maj]

I've seen posts where tappered ferrules used for plumbing compression fittings are slipped over the lifter block fasteners and used as alignment tools. You might need to temporarily substitute longer fasteners than stock for this to work.