exhaust and cam relationship

[Ed S]

Currently running a 06 SG with 95in. SE flat tops, 203 cams, 190 main jet, stock needle raised with a washer, rinehart TD, stock heads, stock HG, and stock ign. Am not really happy with the power band of the cams, and it pings real bad. Had the work done by a bud who works at the local dealer, full of the MoCo propaganda. He never claimed to be an engine builder, and I foolishly assumed that if I went with Harley stuff it would work. I can't leave it pinging like it is, and I'm afraid that just backing the timing down with a DTT module will negate the performance gain. I can come up with enough coin to change cams and head gaskets. I think I'd like to go with the Andrews 21 or 26. My question is if I will get enough squish to help with the detonation if I go to the .030 HG, and how much am I giving up with the Rineharts. I want to spend my limited funds as wisely as possible THIS time. I know there is no absolute answer without knowing deck height and AFR, but the bike doesn't "feel" lean, I just need the best bang for the buck now.

[Sonny S.]

Your AFR is lean
Try a 195 main, NOKK needle, 46 or 48 pilot. If you go 46 you might be 2.5 turns on the mixture screw, 48 1-1.5.
I don't have the # for the needle with me right now.

Many will suggest the N65C needle but I have found it to have a very lean transition to the main and will actually cause a roll on ping especially on a heavy bike. Also milage will suffer

I was running a 48 pilot, NOKK, 205 main in my 01 Ultra, 95", TW37's @9.5, 06 heads cleaned up by me, SuperTrapp 2-1.
and I was getting 40+mpg highway. I tuned AFR using a WEGO III.

[fxstbob]

What Sonny said.
It's much cheaper to get what you have running right than changing cams, in which case it would still need tuned to see any improvement. That's probably why you say you don't care for the powerband, it's simply not running right. Tune it and you'll be happy.

[Admiral Akbar]

"and stock ign. "

I remember when I was in high school, we always thought that advancing the timing made more HP. Well when you increase the compression you need to retard it.. The fire in the cylinders burns faster.. Jetting is probably off but I'd install a DTT.. Dial setting will more than likely get you where you want and you will pick up power..  Max

[Trouble]

You could try getting the '88 sportster needle for the carb, and I would suggest the SE ignition module that retards timing 5* while under load. You don't have anything radical in there that would suggest something more aggressive, just match the mild build with these mild tuning mods. The retard from the module disappears once the manifold vacuum builds and I have always enjoyed 42-47MPG with an identical setup to yours.

[harleywood]

What is this NOKK needle you speak of?   

[Fxstchewy]

Where's it "pinging at? low rpm roll-on or high rpm pass?

[harleywood]

I have the same issue further exasperated by the addition of the SE Hi compression pistons. I have remapped the SE ignition module with a 12deg retard map and still have ping both at low RPM roll-on and WOT. ( I did not put this combo together...just trying to sort it out)

[Don D]

If the mechanical compression ratio is above 9.5/1 corrected for camshaft you are likely to have detonation issues which will be made worse by poor squish and or domes pistons.
The NOKK needle is PT # 27241-95
I have had good luck with a DTT ign and dials and ocassionally a custom map.
Prerequisite is reasonable mechanical compression ratio.

[GoFast.....]

The exhaust is the last thing you need to worry about

[ClassicRider2002]

Am not really happy with the power band of the cams

Ed S....

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!  

Well, the guys above will get you all figured out with your needles and jets....for better running.....but I am still caught by what you said above that you aren't "real happy with the power band of the cams you are running.  I must admit I know very little about your cam's characteristics because I am not running your cam.....I also don't know what your weight is, how often you ride two up, what the weight of your passenger would be, what type of riding you enjoy, are you at sea level or in the mountains, do you ride in the mountains or do you chase a straight line from state line to state line.....our enviornments play a great role or I should say they should play a great role in our cam selections but often times are over looked......Are you the type of rider that can honestly say that you NEVER take your throttle above 4,500 RPM's or do you like to wack it to red line all the time......most of our riding typically is spent between 2500 RPM's to 3500 RPMS.....so if this is the case for you.....I am thinkin no matter what you do with your "tuning" you potentially have the "wrong" cam....but that's ok just chalk it up to R&D......

With your 06 Street Glide, you have what many consider to be the best OEM STOCK Heads for the twin cam to date, so they supposedly flow nicely.....I don't own them so I don't know others would be able to confirm or deny what I am saying with perhaps more accuracy but you are running them as OEM stock heads.....

I am reading some good stuff about the Andrews 21 with the intake closing at 30 which is 6 degrees lower than your 203....which will shift your power band quit a bit about probably 200 rpms.  The 26's would be quite similar I believe to what the 203's are....in that the 203's intake close is at 36 while the 26's are at 35.  The 37's in my opinion wouldn't be the right way to go with your build either as they move further to the right with the RPM band given that they have an intake close of 38.

I am going to send you to this "LINK" below.....take your time....read through it.....send some messages to Bagger he is an interesting person and has some ideas and has done tones of R&D with his bike, he might be able to lead you in a direction, right after Christmas will be an excellent time to catch up on some reading....and others are typically free to help and can guide you.....anyway.....if I were a betting man.....I would say you are into the wrong cam.....only because of what you said above.......but you really have to sit down and honestly access what's your riding style.....once you determine this then it's much easier for others to offer opinions....and when other's are offering their opinions I think it's equally important to understand the same things about them to see if they match up with you....ie: weight, passenger weight, riding style, riding enviornment....etc.....

Here is the "LINK" I mentioned above, SIMPLY CLICK, VIEW, & READ:

95 CONVERSION BY JOE MINTON   AMERICAN IRON

Regards,

"Classic"

[Sonny S.]

I didn't mention ignition because the CCP figures out to be about 172, and that was going .045 gskt & 85cc heads.

Even if your CCP is higher you really need to make sure AFR is correct before you adjust timing. If you remove timing to eliminate detonation, and the real cause was a lean AFR, then you will really be unhappy with the build.
IMHO the last thing you need ignition wise is a -5 SE module. All that's going to do is kill the top end.
I like the DTT's a lot and have two of them. My 01 Ultra I mentioned is running one with a custom map.
Regarless of where you go with this make sure AFR is correct 1st, then timing 2nd.

thanks for the NOKK # Don 
Get one, rejet, and try it.
Pay for dyno time if you must but get your AFR right.

[Faast Ed]

Try running a slightly colder plug along with your other changes.

[Don D]

That is good info on the NOKK, there is another NOKV IIRC too that is a good one to have when playing trying to get the AFR right and not waste fuel.

[Don D]

Here is a list with dimension of all the popular needles

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[03rdkng]

Ed
The power band statement caught my attention as well.
I can not run cams like 203s they just do not match my riding style.
Before you go much further than correcting AFR I would take some time to define what it is your after in performance.
I am probably an exception rather than the rule, I prefer top end over low end torque.
The guys here can minimize your pain.

[Ed S]

Thanks for all the input. I have been an auto mech. for 30 years and I guess I'm comparing the feel of a lean old Q-Jet to what I feel on the bike. It does not feel lean at cruise, doesn't pick up anything when I roll out of the throttle slightly. It pings at all altitudes and temps., from 600' in St. Louis to 4000' on the BRP at 50 deg. to 3000' at 105 deg. in Utah.It doesn't just rattle a little as I'm rolling on the throttle, it will rattle the piston out if I leave it loaded hard. The cam has always come in a little later than I want and was expecting, it runs much better than stock, just want the torque sooner. I'm getting 40-45 MPG at 70-75 MPH, two up, loaded. Definitely going to go with the NOKK needle and maybe a 195 main, question is, is there enough benefit to the .030 head gaskets to be worth the labor, or should I forget about it? The cam change is not a have to, unless it will help the ping, was just considering it. I keep reading about squish and cams and just wondering how much help these areas would be, would I even need to buy a module? 36,000 miles and never been on the rev limiter, just want it to pull real hard from 2000 to 4500 rpm. Any faster and the OL starts swinging.

[Trouble]

Beware! I brought my cams and cam plate to a dealer for installation and got them back one tooth off. So, there may be more than one reason your set-up won't run right. This shouldn't happen; you have an easy modification and need'nt get more complicated. Do you have an excessive amount of carbon on your pistons?

[mayor]

check your cold cranking pressure to see if your inline with what the build and your elevation calculates.  As Trouble mentioned, maybe you have other problems.  I ran stock heads using .030" head gaskets and flat tops with the 203's in a 95" - and never had a ping issue, even at sea level (although it was in a lighter bike  ).  Check ccp, then as Sonny mentioned check your AFR.  You're probably lean.   

define "Am not really happy with the power band of the cams"- runs out of steam too early or doesn't rip your arms out of sockets from idle?

[Ed S]

Doesn't start coming on till 3000. Was told it was going to have more low end. It's real impressive from 3000 up, maybe cause its lean. Too much I don't know. I'll check ccp and change needle and jets. Wish I'd found this forum when it was warm.    Trouble- what symtoms did you have? Carbon not an issue, been doing it from day 1 of build, 17000 mi. Still wondering if thick HG are a problem.

[mayor]

check your cold cranking pressure to see if your inline with what the build and your elevation calculates.  As Trouble mentioned, maybe you have other problems.  I ran stock heads using .030" head gaskets and flat tops with the 203's in a 95" - and never had a ping issue, even at sea level (although it was in a lighter bike  ).  Check ccp, then as Sonny mentioned check your AFR.  You're probably lean.   

...oops, also forgot to mention that I was running a 5degree retard SE ingnition too (which will make a difference in relation to ping).   

Doesn't start coming on till 3000. Was told it was going to have more low end. It's real impressive from 3000 up, maybe cause its lean. Too much I don't know. I'll check ccp and change needle and jets. Wish I'd found this forum when it was warm.    Trouble- what symtoms did you have? Carbon not an issue, been doing it from day 1 of build, 17000 mi. Still wondering if thick HG are a problem.

...part of your below 3k experience could go back to your original question- exhaust and cam relationship. Maybe some guys with experience with Rinehart True Duals can weigh in on that ...it could also be cam specs.  You can move the torque up earlier as you mentioned by switching to a shorter duration, earlier intake close cam like Crane HTC-300 or the Andrews 26 or 21 that you mentioned. 

You can also bring the torque on a little earlier by increasing the static compression.  Assuming that a stock head gasket thickness was used (.052"), switching to a .030" cometic will bring your compression up .38:1 compression and if the head gasket used were .045", the compression would go up .26:1 by switching to the .030" hg's.   

[Bakon]

203 cam closes at 36, which is a relatively low pwer range cam. Its the Rhineharts which hurt you down low. I love them, but they have a low end torque dip just before 3k rpm.

Your cam should be 2500-2700 to come on.
A 38 intake is about 2800-3000.

But the TD pipes have a dip.

Quench or squish will help everywhere when set right. The cam close/ compression ratio is the other part for low end. You would be better with stock head pipes for low end.

Start looking a dyno charts with Rhineharts- you will see a smaller rise or a drop right before 3k, but a pick up in rise after that.

[Don D]

OK something is smelling a little funny
Pinging with under 9/1 corrected? Dead out of the hole with 203 cams?

Considering everything IMO
The pipes are culling a little not a lot down low if they are the 2" and not the huge baffles
The new stock composite HG are .040 I think just for figures, dealer techs can confirm
The SE ign module and retard is not needed and could be causing issues
Ping is likely caused by excessive squish and lean condition

Try the original module just for the heck of it.
Take a compression test and report back
Cams have been known to be defective or installed wrong and the compression test could lend creedance to this.
Tell us the baffle size

[Ed S]

Gonna ck compression Fri. Don't know deck height, just original cyls. with SE pistons. Can't imagine too much compression or squish. Was just supposed to be a little more power without losing any reliability, lots of miles yearly. Actually would be ok if not for ping. If I have to take it apart to fix that, I might as well try to make it do what I really want. The snowball just keeps getting bigger.

[Bakon]

Out of the box my SE parts were mid 40's on the squish. As bad as 50 in spots (95 htcc pistons have multiple areas). When tightened lost alot of the low end dip, but still can be seen on a dyno. But this is a cam change too- S&S585 to Woods 400g, lots more lift and intake close from 46 to 42.

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[Ed S]

Finally got to ck comp. Reads 165 frt. and rear. I assume ping is not compression. Gonna fatten it up a bunch. Question is will this 203 cam respond to this compression, or would a 21 be more suitable? Been thinking a lot about how and where I ride, mostly playing in the mountains, twisty roads, 2 up, just use the interstate to get there. The more I read and learn about these cams, the less faith I have in the 203. I can buy the 21's for a couple hundred bucks, just don't want to do it if I have to go a bunch deeper.

[Admiral Akbar]

"165 is right were it should be..."

For what? A stock motor?

Try cooler plugs, DTT amd set the quench if it still pings. Look for a loose heat shield first.. Max (lovin' the edit function)

[Faast Ed]

A freind of mine is running the same combo in his 04 RK and he does not have your same issues.  The only difference is that he has EFI (with a dealer flash - no custom tune).

95" Flat tops, stock heads and gaskets, Rinehart TD's, 203's.   Zero noticable ping.
EFI with "only" a dealer flash.

Seems your issues are with tuning that carb and/or ignition.

[Don D]

I assume you run premium >91 octane?
I also assume you route your breathers outside and don't have excessive oil entering the combustion process.

OK the compression is in the ballpark and even which says the motor health is OK and the cam timing is probably not too far off. Now if you have an extremely loose squish band it would ping even at this low compression (8.4 corrected). Carbon build-up same problem.

I suggest
Blueprint on the heads and CCs adjusted to 79cc, change to the late OEM seals
Switch to a DTT ignition box set at 3,3 on the dials to start
Jet the CV to 195, 46 pilot, and the NOKK needle, starting point
When the heads are off check and correct if needed the squish by shaving the barrels
use a Cometic .030 hg
Dyno tune the bike and change jets etc. and timing to optimize

Do what I suggest and the bike will feel totally differant and not ping. If you find a lot of carbon buildup you will need to address the oil consumption as well.

[mayor]

I suggest
Blueprint on the heads and CCs adjusted to 79cc, change to the late OEM seals

Don, 79cc and a cam that closes at 36 degrees (in a 95" with flat tops)?  I thought ping free was the objective.   

[Admiral Akbar]

I ran the numbers in the calculator for 203 cams 95" with stock 87cc heads & .052 head gasket with -1.5 for flat top pistons, looked like 165ish...what do you come up with for CCP?

Ain't arguin' with the calculations...   More the build....  

If it pings a lot should see it on the plugs...

With 165 ccp probably don't need an ignition module but I wouldn't rule it out..

"Ed get a base dyno run done, post the results B4 you start opening the wallet for parts..."

Well a base line run is what 50 bucks? ... Tuning more.. Pair of plugs (ra6hcs, 4163s), 195 main, washer under the needle, some sea foam is what 25 bucks??

Don is going a little overboard... but is listing a good build...

Max

[Faast Ed]

The bike I reffered to above was not blueprinted and had stock head gaskets. (nor colder plugs, not that they wouldn't help).

Tuning issues!

[Scramjet]

I had that same build.  It should not ping.  Mine never pinged from 700 feet altitude to 3,000 ft.  The compression should be somewhere around 9.2:1.  Something else must be wrong.  First check CCP for obviously mechanical issues.  Use the Excel compression calculator for reference.  Then check carb tuning.  Keep digging.

That setup should be a good low to mid cam and would be even better with .030 hg to bump the compression.  Obviously you can not bump the compression with your current ping issues.

That is not the hotest setup but if cash is tight it should work "as is" with a little investigative work.  With auto mech background you are better equipped than most to tackle this problem.

B

[mayor]

 First check CCP for obviously mechanical issues.  Use the Excel compression calculator for reference.  Then check carb tuning.  Keep digging.

That setup should be a good low to mid cam and would be even better with .030 hg to bump the compression.  Obviously you can not bump the compression with your current ping issues.

That is not the hotest setup but if cash is tight it should work "as is" with a little investigative work.  With auto mech background you are better equipped than most to tackle this problem.

B

Scram, ccp has already been checked.  See reply #26. 


Since CCP seems to be in line, I agree with those suggesting working on improving the tune.  Check intake manifold for leaks, next then work on main jet and shimming needle.  A manifold leak can cause both symtoms- ping (lean) and lazy.

If not a manifold leak- I would just jump to a 200 main and see if there's an improvement.  Leave the shim under the needle.  If there's an improvement in reduced roll on ping, add another washer.  If no improvement, try an ignition that retards timing.  An SE minus 5 should be plenty if you can find one cheap. 

[Don D]

05 you bring up a good point

The Two issues were late to come on and pinging

Logic
Get rid of the oil in the combustion chamber check and fix squish if need be (would not suspect that unless the squish exceeded .060), at this 8.3/1 corrected CR it should not ping even with stock ignition once again assuming 91 octane or better
If squish and oil are eliminated increase the compression
I addressed both issues and ended up with 9.7/1 9.1/1 corrected compression 187psi, end of the low end torque issue.
Have done several this way with stock heads at the dealer back in the day

Less invasive approach
If just the ping is the focus check the squish with solder and check the back side of the valves and chamber for oil and carbon.
Decarbonize with seafoam (change oil afterwords) and see if the problem goes away, this will confirm carbon uncover the "root cause" and allow proper repairs to proceed.

[Faast Ed]

I didn't see anything in his post that mentioned having very many miles on the build. It read to me as if he just had the build done and was dissapointed.
To me, this eliminates carbon as a suspect.  Anything is possible, just posting my observations.


Edit:  I suppose the builder could have screwed up the ring placement and oiling issues could be carboning up his bike.

[Don D]

Ed
You could be very right in which case decarbonizing would do nothing and looking at the valves would show nothing.
This is stinky and something is not right for it to ping
Would like to know more about octane, riding condition when it pings, and payload
All of this is just part of the diagnosis.

[Faast Ed]

You just overlapped my edit. 

It is like solving a puzzle. Fun!

[Ed S]

Actually it's got 16ooo mi. on it. Been pinging from day 1. Jetted it to 190 after the first trip to smokies. Washer under the needle after the next trip to ark. Spring and a tiny float level bump before trip to az. Had to ride it like a 2 stroke, "on the pipe all the time". Everyone around here kept telling me they never had to change a needle and the 190 is as big as they ever have to go. Parts changers. My fault for not doing my own research. Got a NOKK needle ordered and a 200 main in my hand. now just need it to stop raining or snowing when I'm not working. If that don't do it we're goin in. I'm almost always 2 up and nothing less than 91 octane.

[Faast Ed]

So how was your pinging when the build was first done?  Any better than it currently runs? 
You very well may have carbon issues!

[Don D]

OK now we are zeroing in, good questions
Keep in mind that overly rich mixture  (float or washer too thick) would build carbon too.
What happens if you take it out and whale on it through 3rd gear? Does it smoke? If it was carboned up it will.

[Ed S]

no smoke that i know of, nobody has ever mentioned it anyway. First noticed the ping with 700 mi on it in the smokies. Uses half quart in 3000 mi. Again, been told thats not excessive. Dont know. Could it be burning that much oil without smoke? didn't think so but beginning to not trust a lot of things I think I know.

[Don D]

I wasn't thinking about oil smoke but carbon build-up from fuel and black crud out the pipe. The oil consumption is not bad at all. How are the breathers routed? Get any oil out of the air box?

[Faast Ed]

My bike uses zero in longer intervals.    (Not enough to notice on the stick)

Do like Dewey said earlier, run some Seafoam through there. Do a thorough decarbon before doing anything else.
Changing jets to a carbon filled motor might just confuse things worse.

[Jeffd]

how much soot inside your pipes?

[Ed S]

Verry little soot in pipes, no black out the pipes, no oil from the air box, breathers outside. Been pinging from the beginning. Can't be carbon. Right?

[mayor]

I'd be worried about 1/2qt every 3k with only 16k miles.

Sounds like a good plan to clean out the carbon, but unless you change what's causing it (assuming that it's not from being rich)- your right back here again. Poorly sealed rings will also cause the engine to be flat....Could be a ring issue allowing excessive blow by.

I still say, check for intake manifold leaks while your playing with the other recommendations.  Take small steps, tearing the engine down should be a little latter on the list.  Try the 200 main, see what that does...

...'05's suggestion of a dyno run would help determine if afr was the culprit of if there's another pig in the pen.  Are you around St. Loius? I can think of at least two dyno shops in that area.  I think that one's even a member here.     

[Don D]

I'd be worried about 1/2qt every 3k with only 16k miles

Perhaps, more than most use but not enough for HD to even blink an eye. 

[Ed S]

05FLHTC- What you said about the members here. I have to thank every one for their time and effort. Gonna get a baseline dyno run and go from there. Got a feeling I'm not going to be happy till I go in, fix the squish, cut the heads, put in some 26's or 300's. You all know how it is with the most prized toy. Shoulda done it right the first time.

[metaliser]

Ed I had a 203 cam put in my 06 Electraglide before it left the dealership, had trouble with it pinging from the start, I had it dynoed several times at no cost to me, at least after the 1st one anyways, we finally had to pull some timing out to fix the problem, -2 degrees helped a bunch, I then went to 95" and had some minor head work done by BigBoyz,the reason I tore into the engine anyways was for a bad exhaust valve seal leaking oil, put the engine back together heads were 84cc's with a 30thous cometic gasket, KB flatops, after this it ran 82hp and 93.5 tq and had pinging, had to pull timing back out -2, and when you do pull timing out on the bottom like that you can tell it or at least I can, I just put in some gear drives and went with HQ 0034's, no pinging and they run better than the 203's, now don't get me wrong the 203's servered me well for 22,000 miles and the bike was strong but I wanted to get rid of those tensioners.
I guess to some it up I would install gear drive and put in 0034's or the 26's or maybe the crane 300 if it were me. 

[thedriver]

i'm no expert, but have tuned enough carbed engines. PING ??   FUEL - IN,  OR  TIMING  - OUT,  OR  BOTH. listen to the engine and read the plugs.  should be the first and simplest thing to do, even with 165 ccp.  maybe the fuel and spark is that far off from last build and tune up. you never know till you stir things up a bit    good luck

[Princess Butt]

In my '06 Ultra (95 flat tops, stock head gaskets, SE 204 cams) I was getting a little ping all over the place. I went into the SERT, dialed back the timing 2 degrees, and it cleared right up.

Bike runs fine. Maybe just a little tiny bit on the timing and it's good to go?

The dealer suggested the 204's over the 203's in a bagger. I don't know why, they said people seem happier with the 204's.

Also, check for a sharp edge in the chamber if you open it up. I've had that problem on another motor (non-HD).

BnEUC

[FLTRI]

Consider this:
The HD setup (95/flatops/SE204 or 203) is a build that has been around for at least a decade with 1000's of happy camper bagger customers. I know, I used to work for HD and installed many, many 95/flatop/203,204 builds. This is tried and true build, not a new, unproven combo.

That said, you either have a lean midrange (needle spacing needs to be about .040 thick or sportster needle ), or the fuel quality you have is in the dumper. We have 91 octane here in California with 10% +/- 2% ethanol added which make the engine run leaner. Once this "formula" hit the streets last year, well (summer 2007) I have had more than a few customers pick up detonation, even after years of no detonation, and had to back their timing off sometimes up to 5-8 degrees to compensate, depending on the build.

If the above is your case you may simply need to go to a bigger main jet (it affects everywhere) to compensate for the newly formulated alky fuel.
Of course it is a great idea to get rid of the stock ign module and get a SE programmable module, which, IMO is a great timing tuning tool as it is rock-ape easy to use and you can do it on the fly with the programmer in your lap.

If this doesn't fix your detonation, you may very well have somthing like huge carbon build up in the combustion chamber which will make an otherwise, perfect combo, detonate.
PS - Reading plugs is really a science now that the lead has been remove from our fuels which gave us the color to look for on the porcelain. You must have a high powered flashlight, like the ones your doc looks into your ears with, and look at the bottom on the porcelain for a very thin ring of color. If you see the old "tan" color on your porcelain it is either a bad test cut of the throttle, or it is way too rich.

After all this, the absolute best way to remedy your dilemma and assure you are getting the most from your engine is to get it properly dyno tuned by and experienced, knowledgeable tuner. Nothing beats measuring AFR and power output, IMO.
HTH,
Bob

[Don D]

I agree Bob, we have touched on all of these points.
Alcohol (ethanol specifically) has only 60% heat energy compared to octane. Stoichiometric of about 9, even at 10% it does change the game plan. I used to talk 9.5/1 corrected today I use about 9.1/1 as usual and customary and that can change under certain circumstances (less).

[FLTRI]

Don,
Just though it might be helpful to sum it up for the poster.
Happy New Year! 
Bob

[Don D]

OH yeah I am glad you chimed in, Thanks

[ICANTD55]

Get the afr squared away and see if you can find somebody to let you borrow a DTT to try. Cheepest way to check. Maybe a local Indy may have one or a Friend. Are you in the north east? It only takes a couple of min to pull it and install.

Your rite about having somebody do motor work on your bike and having issues after the fact. I would say there is quite a few of us here that has been down that road including me. So your not alone on this. I would  yank my DTT if it were compatable and you were near me, but its not.  I have an 03 Flhr. Maybe somebody here that lives near you can hook you up and let you try one to set your ignition inital timing and advance. If the ping going away will make you happy. But if you want more power and a known good set up you are gonna have to go in and check everything. Don, layed out a nice target build for you. I ran the rinharts on a high compression 95in some time ago and switch out the rinharts to a fat cat and noticed a significant gain in torque on the bottom end. But I sure missed the rinhart sound.
Look in the cylinders throught the plug hole with a small flexable light and make sure there is not a lot of carbon build up now .A couple of hot spots will drive you nuts. Just because it did it when it was first built ,dosent rule carbon out now , Just saying if you corect the fuel and timing and you have carbon now you may be pissing into the wind. It would be better to start with clean pistons and chambers.
The water trick works pretty well for this . And as sombody else menchined Seafoam. JMHO
I am sure the guys here will walk you through it.
Good Luck
Rick
EDIT
Guess I should have read Bobs Post first. Sorry Bob .