107" Axtell Cylinders or 106" w/ S&S Crank?

[HDGlider]

Thinking of going to a 107" or a 106", from my 95" with a trued and welded crank.

I can change to Axtell cylinders (and have to have the cases bored, requiring complete disassembly AGAIN) to get to 107"

Or, I can go to an S&S 4.5" stroker crank and keep the 3.875" bored cylinders I already have. Either way I'm looking at a total disassembly.

I'll get a little more area under the torque and Hp curves, but is it it worth the ~$2K with either plan, and the effort?

Looking for feedback on Axtell 107" Vs the S&S stroker crank 106" options, thanks.

[se]

well if you go to a 43/8 ctrank you can do a 117 instead of a 107 .. see how much diffrence in cost it would be. i dont think it is that much unless you are going  all out power.

if you want to keep the 4in crank then have the cases bored that is the cheapest way to go imo

what exactly are you looking for power wise??

[Deye76]

I'd do the Axtell. Less vibration, and I bet the 107 will last longer a/c suspect piston skirt length in the 106.

[hdpegscraper]

Since you have a trued and welded crank, use it, and do a 107. Consider how you ride also, a 106 will have higher piston speed than a 107. Since the stroke is longer, the piston travels farther, so it has to travel faster, per revolution of the crank than a 107. Simply, more wear, and lower redline. However, that might not be a factor for you. I had an S&S 106, and quite frankly was surprised at how short the skirts are, also the rear piston has one hell of a piston to piston clearance relief cut into it. Now I said Had, cause its got SE 103 wheels now.  Anyway, good dependable tourer: 107,  hot rod bar hopper: 106

[Showdog75]

 Anyway, good dependable tourer: 107,  hot rod bar hopper: 106 

I'd say all things equal the 107 would be the faster of the two . Maybe the experts will chime in . If it were mine 107 all the way . If and/or when I have crank problems I'll go 107" . 

[bigpete1]

yes you can keep your bored cylinders you have now if you go 106 ,i have the 106 in my 03 flht and this fall i pulled it apart to change heads and i pulled cylinders off and they only wear on pistons with 30,000 miles is the coating s&s puts on pistons is coming off ,so as far as reliability i have had no isues with wear ,i am not sure if 107 or 106 makes a huge difference in power i never rode or owned a 107 so i can not say but the 106 is no slouch setup correctly ,iwas going to put axtell cylinders on it when i had it apart but in order to do that with 4.5 "stroke they would have had to make me .060 taller cylinders ,it added up to alot of money to gain 4cu in would have been 110 oh well it runs good ,thanks pete  

[hdpegscraper]

Here is a S&S 106 on the left, and a SE BB High Comp on the right (not a 107). Wrist pin height is the same in the pic and you can compare the skirt heights for yourself, and note the piston to piston relief in the 106. You may also note how the oil ring grove and wristpin overlap on the 106.  Yes there scorn, bad crank.   

[Bagger]

Another 106" option:

106" build using JIMS 4.5" crank
http://www.bikernet.com/jims/strokertech1.asp

JIMS Stroker Catalog
http://www.jimsusa.com/PDF/strokercat%20.pdf

From: larouchedem - Posted on old HTT site 2/15/2008:

http://groups.msn.com/harleytechtalk/tc88fathead.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=1288591&ID_CLast=1288865&CDir=1
http://groups.msn.com/harleytechtalk/dynoruns.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=681141&LastModified=4675525754801833646Sent: 2/15/2008 12:00 AM

FWIW, you can also use 103" pistons with a 4.5" JIMS crank for 106", as the rods in those are shorter than stock rods. It works like a charm. The JIMS rods are .067" shorter than 88/95/103 pistons. The piston ends up 4 or 5 down the hole more than it would be with a 103 crank, but it's still good with a 30 thou gasket.

Unless something has changed, JIMS doesn't offer a 3.875" x 4.5" 106" setup. JIMS 4.5" crank is used with bores other than 3.875". If I remember correctly, JIMS did offer a 106", but later agreed not to to get the contract from the moco.

I like a casting for a street build. I know for a fact that the 4.5" JIMS crank works perfectly with the 103 pistons. I convinced a friend to try it a while back, and he has done several. Balancing factor is fine. Wrist pin diamter is same.  Don't bother calling JIMs about it, unless you have an inside connection, they may even tell you that it will not work.

I like the 1.083" tall 103 piston much more than S&S' 1.020" piston [due to rod length]

Stock CH is 1.270. Deduct 1/2 of the stroke increase 250" = 1.020". Add .067" due to the JIMS rods being .067" shorter = 1.087". The 1.083" tall 103 pistons are close enough for me. A .030" cometic = done. No machine work, which appeals to some.

Again, a 107" will out run it, but for a putt putt ride that doesn't need to go over 5000 very often, I like the idea of a 106. I'll do one for my flht one of these winters. With flat tops and stock chamber volume, CR should be in the 10.1-1 to 10.2-1 range. A little head cut if someone wants more. A dished 103 piston could be used if someone wants less.

Dave

[moose]

article in Baggers March issue might be of interest if hopping up