why 88"to 95"

[jazzman713]

why do people go from an 88" to 95" should you stay low comp or go to the 10 -1 thinking of going to a 95 with flat tops but dont know just how much i will gain from doing it
                 thanks

[Mi_RDGlide]

First time I did it was for the fun factor, second time was to go faster than my first bike.

[jazzman713]

help me out here! i dont have the back round many of you have and want to learn and enjoy my bike

[Bear]

I just did my 96 with street port at 9.5 to gain a little for two up trailer pulling in the mountains and maybe a few more grins one up!!!! I havent got to ride it yet so I hope it performs like I hope.        Dave

[WideBoy04]

I did it because I want more after the cam
upgrade last winter gave me more torque.
The bike was already apart, only thing left
was to pull the heads. Can't give you the
results yet, haven't got to ride it.

[Mi_RDGlide]

You need to answer whats your goal, more power? fastest bike? 2up riding, bagger, softail, dyna, Can you do the work yourself? budget?
My first bike I did 203s & big bore ran great about 10 to 15 hp over stock. Next one is doing 100 hp & torque. more power-more money.

[jazzman713]

this bike is a 06 road king i take trips on this bike nothing less than 100 miles most trip are 1000 to 3500 mile trips im putting andrews 21n cams in the bike with a race tuner zippers air duals and slipons i ride 1 up all the time im not in to fast but i want it there when i need it hope this helps

[mayor]

the reason a 95" upgrade is popular for 88"ers is because the added displacement adds torque the whole way across the operating range, where just changing the cams only improves torque in a limited rpm range.

The static compression range is only high or low relative to the cam intake close (called corrected compression).  A cam with an early intake close like the Andrews 21 is going to behave differently at 10:1 than a cam with a late intake close like the SE211's. 

Joe Minton wrote a couple of fairly good articles that explains the benefits of the big bore:

http://www.americanrider.com/output.cfm?id=1205749

http://www.americanrider.com/output.cfm?id=1054045


hope this helps,

[jazzman713]

thanks alot for all the help

[Princess Butt]

There's no substitute for cubic inches, as they say in both NHRA and NASCAR. I did it before taking delivery because, well, I didn't feel like seating the rings twice, and at that time, HD would warranty the work under the factory warranty.

I ride 2 up on the 06 Ultra 99% of the time. I figure with a passenger and cargo, I'm better off with a few extra cubes. I almost stroked it to 103 before I took delivery. Sometimes, I wish I had, but I figure if the crankcase splits open someday, those flywheels are growing up a little.

BnEUC

[ClassicRider2002]

Jazzman713~~
"........help me out here! i dont have the back round many of you have and want to learn and enjoy my bike........"

It is of course your road king and your money.  My best advice is to do nothing until you can remove the significant descriptor above, ie: "don't".   I have heard the "stages" of learning described as:

1) unconcious incompetence--this is the stage of learning where you don't even know or have a clue that you don't know somethiing....it's this stage where you are oblivous to your surroundings.....next,

2) concious incompetence-- this is the stage of learning where you "DO" know and have a "clue" that you don't know something and you "want" to learn, that you lack the "competence" necessary to make decisions but you begin seeking advice, it's this stage where you are the most influenced by others.....and it's this stage that you will ethier decide to advance your learning through your own efforts taking what others state as a means to establish your own opinions or whether you will remain satisfied at simply being a follower of other's experiences....it's this stage specifically with your motorcycle that you will either gain great advice or very poor advice and you will either suffer or benefit appropriately by shear "luck" per say.  It's in this stage that you will either decide to invest in your own efforts to reach the next stage, which is.....

3) concious competence-- this is the stage of learning where you have learned something but it's still quite mechanical....this is the stage where you need to refer to notes and your information to articulate it to someone else but you have at least the foundation to know what's going on and have the ability to make good decisions....in essence you have an awareness of a topic and have the ability to make competent decisions......obviously being the third stage of learning.....one would hope to move to the next stage which is.....

4) unconcious competence--this is the stage of learning where you know what you know and don't even have to think about it....it comes naturally.....it's this stage where an NFL player is said to be able to use his natural talents.....he has a foundation of information from which to draw from essentially this person is the Peyten Manning of the Offense he is fluid in his decisions....esstentially at this level of learning you can articulate your knowledge to someone else in a manner someone else will be able to learn from.....it's this stage of learning where one becomes a "teacher" of another......

OK SOOOOO....what's my point......my suggestion is to not get into a rush to do something to your bike you will regret......it's taken me personally 6 years to begin to move from stage 1 and probably now I spend most of my time in stage 2 and stage 3 while in some areas I have an excellent grasp of what is going on with my bike.....so my suggestion is to be patient, read, listen to others, and learn as much as you can.....

The first steps in knowing what to do with your bike should be firmly in your mind before you make any alterations....such things as knowing what your riding enviornment is like, ie: mountains, or flat land, time spent in either, which of course describes your riding enviornment, next your own characteristics ie: your weight, the weight of your passenger if you carry one and how often if you do, ride two up....then knowing how you ride your bike and what you expect out of it......this is the difficult decision and where one meets the "fork" in the road.....where one either decides that having a big engine with lots of horse power is important vs a mild powered bike operating with perhaps more torque than that it comes out of the box from the factory.....decisions, decisions, and more decisions.....all of which will ultimately increase the "fun" factor of owning your RK or perhaps have you constantly clamoring for something different or ellusive if one doesn't take the time to build their own foundation.....

Mayor above has "LINKED" you to a couple of articles by Joe Minton, these articles are from 2002 and still have a certain amount of relevance today....in fact his logic is quite simple and his efforts have proven to have a lot of wisdom.....I am going to send you to a "LINK" which had Joe Minton's 95" build also printed within it and then other's reflective comments that associated that article, you will also find several other "LINKS" to other topical discussions about what some are doing or have done with their "baggers" as well, perhaps you may find it helpful.....and I suppose there is always that chance you won't.......

The bottom line is you have to move yourself from the "don't" in the statement that you made above to at least Stage 3 of the learning process.....and how successful you are in doing so will ultimately affect your experience with your RK, I wish you well in your "journey" and they always say asking questions is the first event in learning....because when you ask a question....you are already aware that the "don't" is a place you wish to see in the rear view mirror.....

CLICK, VIEW & READ:

95 CONVERSION BY JOE MINTON  AMERICAN RIDER

Regards,

"Classic"

[Coff 06]

Why go 95",for the same cost you can do 98".JMO      Coff 06

[JohnnyM]

My bike is one of the first twin cams ever built.  Delivered in November of ’98.  First modifications was a SE air cleaner and exhaust.  At around 10,000 miles I went to 95”.  Lots of disappointment, gained a little torque and maybe 2-3 mph top speed going to 95” alone will not get you big performance numbers.  To make a 95” work nicely you need heads and cams.  On MM bikes like mine you need a larger throttle body.  The single biggest bank for the buck on my bike was the 43mm SE throttle body.

[02roadcling]

Go 37 or 204 on the cams and use flattops. Dust those with your current build.

[ClassicRider2002]

.................and don't forget the following, SIMPLY, CLICK, VIEW, & READ:

INDEX OF 3.37 FINAL GEARING DISCUSSIONS


Regards,

"Classic"

[PC_Hater]

It's true.
You look at the 95" dyno runs compared to what your 88" dyno'd at and you can't help wondering why you should bother.
Changing the gearing is well worth it. My belt broke and while I was in there I went one tooth down on the gearbox pulley so my gearing is about 3.25:1. Works very well.
Should you need a rebore then by all means go straight up to 95" - I will, but I'm not doing it just for the sake of it.
If the crank gets fubarred then I will bore the cases for the biggest bore I can fit.

Do you like revving your motor? If so, the 95" Hippo build is what you should aim for.

[02roadcling]

I must agree, do the gearing change first. You may be happy and gas smileage might improve too since the motor will be less stressed.

cling

[HDRDR]

.................and don't forget the following, SIMPLY, CLICK, VIEW, & READ:

INDEX OF 3.37 FINAL GEARING DISCUSSIONS


Regards,

"Classic"

Great info and thanks

[IBARider]

Now that the question has been answered, I have one...  I understand the big bore 'kit' contains new barrels.  Can't you bore the existing barrels?  And if so, why does anyone buy the kit?

[mayor]

Now that the question has been answered, I have one...  I understand the big bore 'kit' contains new barrels.  Can't you bore the existing barrels?  And if so, why does anyone buy the kit?

yes old barrels can be bored.  Some "turn key kits" from shops are actually your cylinders bored (or previous take offs).  Most buy the SE jugs to save time, or because they don't want to deal with finding a machine shop that can bore.  The last set I had bored cost me almost as much as a set of SE jugs through an online discount shop. 

[Sonny S.]

Now that the question has been answered, I have one...  I understand the big bore 'kit' contains new barrels.  Can't you bore the existing barrels?  And if so, why does anyone buy the kit?

yes old barrels can be bored.  Some "turn key kits" from shops are actually your cylinders bored (or previous take offs).  Most buy the SE jugs to save time, or because they don't want to deal with finding a machine shop that can bore.  The last set I had bored cost me almost as much as a set of SE jugs through an online discount shop. 

....... but boring yours is a better way to go because HD specs are all over the place   

[PC_Hater]

And if you do have your cylinders bored - there are those that say that 'seasoned' barrels are better than new barrels.
Might even be true. I would bore every time. I like old bikes with old original parts and careful yet visible repairs.

[sharkoilfield]

Going from 88 to 95 offers the opportunity to gain a signficant performance increase, spend a significant amount of money or both...

Friends and I have done a few in the past; have always re-used cylinders, kept stock pushrods and only re-jetted stock carb with HD jets. There's a lot of opportunity for dealers/indy's to up sell a whole bunch of $tuff when you don't know what is absolutely required and why...so ea$y to just go back to the dealer and order up a "kit"; a lot more homework to walk into the shop knowing as much/more than the guy on the other side of the counter.....do your homework and the results/dollar ratio can amaze you.

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[boooby1744]

 A 95 incher with about 9.3-1 comp,3.37 primary and a 6 speed tranny($$$$) would be the ultimate for your bike,imho.The duals are ok ,but a 2-1 would be optimum.if you don't do the driveline upgrade,perhaps some mild headwork with some grooves.