TTS...Tuning for parade use

[07heri]

I would like some advice on how to deal with an upcoming parade.  I figure if I have this tool I might as well try to employ it when it can. 

12 mile parade...will be mid 90's in Texas and I know this bike will get hot.  Would it beneficial to to tweak the current cal to run cooler at idle and slow rpm's?  If so, which changes should be made to which tables and cells?

I was thinking if this idea was worthy to tweak the current map (and save a copy) to use when I know I'll be in situations like this...then reprogram back to my current map after the parade or whatever event I'm participating in is finished.  It's quick and easy enough to swap back and forth when needed. 

Any thought on this? 

[rbabos]

I would like some advice on how to deal with an upcoming parade.  I figure if I have this tool I might as well try to employ it when it can. 

12 mile parade...will be mid 90's in Texas and I know this bike will get hot.  Would it beneficial to to tweak the current cal to run cooler at idle and slow rpm's?  If so, which changes should be made to which tables and cells?

I was thinking if this idea was worthy to tweak the current map (and save a copy) to use when I know I'll be in situations like this...then reprogram back to my current map after the parade or whatever event I'm participating in is finished.  It's quick and easy enough to swap back and forth when needed. 

Any thought on this?

Personally, I wouldn't rely on that crap to save my engine. Maybe for a couple of blocks but 12 miles? IMHO.
Ron

[07heri]

Rely on what crap?  What are you talking about?

[Coyote]

I think he means rely on a "parade" tune. IMO he's right too. Air cooled motors are not designed for parades. I would never do that to my bike. YMMV

[TXChop]

Same here. A lot of my busiest times are when guys meltdown something in their parades. Seen a lot burn oil after parades and worse. Evos, used to melt ignitions, breakers blown, pipes discolor, riders get dehydrated fast, starting systems blow out if you dont allow for a long cool down. I used to go to rolling thunder every year, just got tired of being a roadside mechanic.

With that said,if your bike is tuned properly, dumping fuel or timing wont help. Just make sure the parade moves and if it stops for too long pull off, cool down. Your bike will tell you if it wants a break.

[wurk_truk]

. Air cooled motors are not designed for parades.
So True
I wouldn't rely on that crap to save my engine
me neither

This kind of thinking comes from folks like on HDF that either SELL this idea to sell units, or sell other members to try to convince others they are right.

I'm thinking most on this site would agree that the ONLY tune one should run is the tune that covers all the VEs and makes the engine run it's best.

I, would, maybe look into parade fans if this important to you.

I am NOT doing the 2011  9-11 run this year.  Heat coming into NYC would be brutal in the tunnel with a 2000 line of bikes....  no thanks.

Same here. A lot of my busiest times are when guys meltdown something in their parades. Seen a lot burn oil after parades and worse. Evos, used to melt ignitions, breakers blown, pipes discolor, riders get dehydrated fast, starting systems blow out if you dont allow for a long cool down.

Traffic stopped like 10 miles in Jersey last year and the bike LIVED on Etims or whatever its called.  If I hadnt had manual CRs...  wouldn't have been pretty.

Chop nails it

[Steve Cole]

I would like some advice on how to deal with an upcoming parade.  I figure if I have this tool I might as well try to employ it when it can. 

12 mile parade...will be mid 90's in Texas and I know this bike will get hot.  Would it beneficial to to tweak the current cal to run cooler at idle and slow rpm's?  If so, which changes should be made to which tables and cells?

I was thinking if this idea was worthy to tweak the current map (and save a copy) to use when I know I'll be in situations like this...then reprogram back to my current map after the parade or whatever event I'm participating in is finished.  It's quick and easy enough to swap back and forth when needed. 

Any thought on this?

EITMS is a method used to control engine heat at very low speed and idle on a HD engine. It is NOT the same in all calibrations. The TTS base calibrations had a lot of time spent to make this mode work as good as we could, as traffic here in SoCal along with summer heat is really bad. The way that it works in a TTS base calibration is totally different than how HD has tried it, and we know our method works much better than what HD has done. Is it the end all be all........... NO, but it is the best we could make it work with weeks and months of high temperature testing on various bikes and builds. To turn it off on a TTS calibration is the wrong thing to do IMHO.

Nothing you can do is going to stop from getting an overheated air cooled HD engine when traveling at low speed (<3kph) and high ambient temperatures but why would anyone want to turn Off a function that helps slow the heating process down! Not only does this function slow the heating process it also let's you know when the engine is getting to hot, so you at least know what is going on. Without it you have no idea of where you are at.

[rbabos]

Rely on what crap?  What are you talking about?

What I meant to say and also as Steve pointed out, it's best used as a reference to when things start to become ugly. Very short period only and then it's either get moving or shut er down. ETMS will only slow the melt down, not prevent it.
Ron

[wurk_truk]

I always leave EITMS on.  And it does seem that the TTS method sure sounds better than the stock MOCO method when it kicks in.  But I would NOT attempt to make a 'parade' tune and I wouldn't trust such a tune either.  There are a couple fans that work somewhat.

[07heri]

I would like some advice on how to deal with an upcoming parade.  I figure if I have this tool I might as well try to employ it when it can. 

12 mile parade...will be mid 90's in Texas and I know this bike will get hot.  Would it beneficial to to tweak the current cal to run cooler at idle and slow rpm's?  If so, which changes should be made to which tables and cells?

I was thinking if this idea was worthy to tweak the current map (and save a copy) to use when I know I'll be in situations like this...then reprogram back to my current map after the parade or whatever event I'm participating in is finished.  It's quick and easy enough to swap back and forth when needed. 

Any thought on this?

EITMS is a method used to control engine heat at very low speed and idle on a HD engine. It is NOT the same in all calibrations. The TTS base calibrations had a lot of time spent to make this mode work as good as we could, as traffic here in SoCal along with summer heat is really bad. The way that it works in a TTS base calibration is totally different than how HD has tried it, and we know our method works much better than what HD has done. Is it the end all be all........... NO, but it is the best we could make it work with weeks and months of high temperature testing on various bikes and builds. To turn it off on a TTS calibration is the wrong thing to do IMHO.

Nothing you can do is going to stop from getting an overheated air cooled HD engine when traveling at low speed (<3kph) and high ambient temperatures but why would anyone want to turn Off a function that helps slow the heating process down! Not only does this function slow the heating process it also let's you know when the engine is getting to hot, so you at least know what is going on. Without it you have no idea of where you are at.

EITMS was left on and I ran 14.0 at idle.  The temps were in the high 90's during the entire 4 days at the ROT Rally.  The parade route was 11 miles and the EITMS never kicked, or at least I never felt it.  Maybe it was due to the spurts in speed, rather than 11 miles of constant slow, helping cool it down in between the slow stuff.  At times I did feel the heat but never felt the EITMS kick in, so maybe the tune is halfway decent.  I doubt I will run in any of that crap again, to say the least.  Much better to avoid it and just watch whilst sipping a cold beer.