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Anyone heard of this?

Started by psyco369, January 08, 2009, 04:42:20 PM

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psyco369

last year I redid the top end on my 94 fls at the same time I put in a EV27 cam (new lifters cam bearing adj push rods rings valve job)
the bike ran great when giviner but would run like total crap when cruising between 2000 and 3000 rpm I tried everything to get it to run right (jetting-mikuni-entire ignition (spare) did comp test leak down test could find nothing. figured the only difference from stock was the cam so I put the stock cam back in and BAM ran perfect again.since then I noticed the oil in the breather (ness big sucker) so I replaced it with an external set up  and I have a S&S reed valve to put in.....now I want your opinion if you think the oil in the breather could have been the prob if so I will try the EV27 again when I install the S&S breather valve if not I will stick to stock I loved the roll on with the EV but as I spend most time around 2000 to 3000 rpm I could not live with the way it was running........
Thx....Dan :bf: 

riden2low

I have a 27 in my 93 fatboy with the S&S reed valve, new lifters and adj. pushrods and have no problems.

BigE1340

Two words....... Vacuum leak...... live it learn it bro...... :sswim:

psyco369

Quote from: BigE1340 on January 08, 2009, 07:08:13 PM
Two words....... Vacuum leak...... live it learn it bro...... :sswim:
ok it would seem I didn't mention the top end was all redone ..comp test perfect... leak down perfect also did several vacuum leak tests ...tried 2 carbs jetting both stock intake and ramjett intake... replaced all ignition (mod,coil,sensor)... tested the VOES... tested the stator batt and reg  checked all wiring changed plugs (HD) plug wires taylor 8.0 and accell 8.8
now before anyone goes off about tossing parts before diagnosing I had all spares known to be good...The only thing that made it run right was the stock cam once I replaced the stock cam I put all the rest back to the set up I had originally and it still ran perfect for the 8000 k I put on it until the snow fell...now I have to go into the cam chest to fix a leak at the cam end seal ( didn't replace it when I replaced the stock cam here is the live and learn ) and to install the S&S reed valve....I am just wondering if anyone thinks the breather injected oil may have been the cause of the prob with the overlap on the EV27 making it worse possibly or maybe my mill just doesn't like the cam
I am leaning toward not putting it back in but on the other hand it isnt hard to change back.....so any input is very much appreciated
thx Dan

96dynabagger

It'd be hard to fault an EV-27, its been a very good cam over the years.
You've got something else going on.

Could you give a little more details on "runs like crap"? 
When you change something like a cam, you've got to expect some tuning changes,
but it shouldn't be that much of a problem.

psyco369

January 09, 2009, 10:51:51 AM #5 Last Edit: January 09, 2009, 12:46:16 PM by psyco369
Ok at a steady rpm starting around 1500-2000 to around 3000-3500 it would seem to cut out , surge , miss about the best I can describe
rocking down the highway it ran great ...at idle it was noticeable as it was almost like one cylinder was not firing but both were it just sounded like it....as I said before NO leaks..checked with propane,brake cleaner,carb cleaner. timing was dead nuts. leak down test showed as new as did comp test at 160 both cyl.as for jetting I went 3 sizes up and down low speed and main and tried the needle at several different settings went from to lean to too rich but the prob stayed the same no matter the jetting switched to mikuni hsr42 and ramjett intake same problem nothing I could do would fix it until the stock cam was replaced I know EV27 shouldn't be a problem but for some reason it was....to the point I didn't want to ride it ...once the stock cam was back in it ran PERFECT to this day .....unless there is something that I and my research and all my friends (some that are mechanics ) missed I can not figure out why it wont work unless the oil from the breather going into the carb direct could cause it? it was doing almost the same thing when I found the breather was spitting oil after I ran it then stopped for a while and went to go  it would run great until I let it sit hot then would kinda run like it did with the cam for a block or so then straiten out....this is why I am asking if this may have been the original cause since I changed to the external breather it runs perfect all the time


It'd be hard to fault an EV-27, its been a very good cam over the years.
You've got something else going on.

that is why I got this cam but for me anyway it isn't working right and yes maybe I over looked something that is why I am asking this but I guess I didn't have all the test info posted I hope I do now as it was almost a year now and I am getting old :bf:

Bucket

Did you use your stock pushrods? Also was the cam gear already on the cam or did you change them? I just installed a 27 in my Evo.I changed the gear out on the cam and installed an s&s reed breather only rode about 200 or so miles I have had no issues. Bike pulls very good above 2500 or so. Oil in the breather is common.I have the s&s set up so it makes a mess if you run it hard.

WML57

What exhaust are you running? Could be you have a reversion problem causing an improper air/fuel mixture at those rpms.
Drag pipes would cause this!

Mark.

RLPOS1

been running the ev27 for 2 years have no issues at any rpm. Very streetable
1996 FXD
T/Jet kit, S/E 6000 RPM Ignition, Hooker Tunable's, EV27, HyperCharger

Grayrider

I would try another EV 27 Cam! Could be a defective griind or wrong PN!  Seems like that is the only thing you haven't addressed. Sounds to me like the cam is the variable in your description of the problem.
That would be my next change!
JMHO   
I'm Sexy – I Ride a Harley – I can't Help It!

psyco369

January 10, 2009, 10:05:32 AM #10 Last Edit: January 10, 2009, 10:15:10 AM by psyco369
Quote from: Grayrider on January 10, 2009, 07:07:06 AM
I would try another EV 27 Cam! Could be a defective griind or wrong PN!  Seems like that is the only thing you haven't addressed. Sounds to me like the cam is the variable in your description of the problem.
That would be my next change!
JMHO   
yes that was my thinking
as for the gear I used the gear that was on it as the size was correct. the pushrods are revtech quick installs (yes I played with the adjustment) and the exhaust is vance&hinse long shots with baffles I also tried the stock headers with SE slipons when trying to figure out the prob.
so no one thinks the oil could have caused the prob then....I guess I wont be trying this cam again ...I will get another new one to try
I did get this one from Ebay store (american classic) it was new and the assy Date was 3 weeks prior to me receiving it but it could have been a Friday model  :angry:
oh and for the record the bike has around 35000 miles on it the only reason for the top end was the dreaded rear base leak it has run syn oil for as long as I can remember and is very well maintained everything inside looked like new... it was a shame to take it apart just for a leak that should never be there but has now been cured with pigtails as per the advice from Donny Peterson

RLPOS1

give Andrews a call and talk to them about it. They may replace it or guide you thru the issue
1996 FXD
T/Jet kit, S/E 6000 RPM Ignition, Hooker Tunable's, EV27, HyperCharger

bigtone

Ok, here is my shot at it. Usually, with bikes I've worked on, issues such as surging, backfires, or general weekness at between 2000 to 3000 rpm, reversion is the first thing that pops into mind. What type pipes do you have? Usually it is drag pipes that have a hand in causing this, bit sometimes other pipes can cause it too. And it leaves an oily like substance in the air cleaner, which is a mixture of the gas being pushed back out of the carb throat, and the oil in the filter element. I have fixed a few by swapping the cam with one with different valve timing, even though there really wasnt anything actually wrong with the cam. It's a combination of valve timing and exhaust length.Hard to diagnose without actually seeing it, but it's an idea.

hrdtail78

I also suggest calling Andrews.  John's a smart guy and will take the time to help you out.  I have used the EV27 a bunch and love the cam for a bolt in option.  As for as oil goes.  Do you think it's sumping.  Evo's dont have a history of this.  Was your timing on the cam and breather right when you had the EV in there.  Might of been off then when you went back to stock you put it in correctly.  Just a thought.  The reed breather will take out the guess work for that.
Semper Fi

psyco369

I had both the V&H long shots with baffles and the stock headers with SE slipons
its not sumping just the "normal" oil from the breather ...the problem I was having was the oil would pool in the air cleaner (big sucker) and not drain out the bottom but sit there and when started up after a good run would almost foul the plugs...I have since changed to the old style highflow a/c with the breather crossover and ran it to the frame.. now I will say since I did that it hasn't leaked a drop from the hose around 1500 miles and has not had the fouling problem....I think the big sucker by design actually draws more oil from the breather as it puts the breather outlet right at the mouth of the carb (I could be wrong and probably am) 
I think a call to andrews may be the ticket
I am rebuilding a friends 89 ultra over the winter I may pop it in his motor and see if it acts the same

fastfxr

why did you use the s&s reed valve the purpose of these valves is for damaged cases they dont flow as well as a s&s standard type steel rotary valve thats why they arent used in s&s big inch and crate motors :embarrassed:

psyco369

Quote from: fastfxr on January 10, 2009, 08:47:30 PM
why did you use the s&s reed valve the purpose of these valves is for damaged cases they dont flow as well as a s&s standard type steel rotary valve thats why they arent used in s&s big inch and crate motors :embarrassed:
From what S&S says this is a better design than the geared breather works better as a breather and helps scavenging the over sized one is for damaged bores same as the over sized  geared valve but without the need to re bore to perfection ....the design was first invented for the twin cam to fix the oil in the breather as it creates a negative pressure in the crankcase and worked so well they made one for the Evo..... according to my research it works very well ... I know you cant believe everything you read but hey it is worth a try :wink: now I will also add I have not yet installed this valve so it has no bearing on the original problem... I will post the outcome of my findings with this valve after I install and run it

fastfxr

i thought they were a great idea one less moving part and s&s put out a good spill on them but they dont flow as well put one in a 124 s&s and watch the dyno figures go down thats why they dont use them in their crate motors   :smileo:

psyco369

well I am not worried about power so much and I only have a stock 80"
I am willing to try it out and if it makes the mess less I will be happy :smilep: