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motor mount repair

Started by Little Al, January 12, 2009, 07:24:16 PM

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Little Al

I'm finally getting my frame to the welder. any good suggestions I could make to him on repairing this motor mount? the threads are totally shot and elongated into an egg shape although it doesn't show well in the picture

Little Al

MBSKEAM

countersink and fill it with weld, then redrill and tap. fix all 3 while your at it,if the threads dont come out then you can helicoil them also....

mbskeam
http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a96/mbskeam/
You Can Have It All,MyEmpireOfDirt

CraigArizona85248

I agree... I'd fix all three while you are doing it.  Make a template to give to the welder/machinist so they get the holes in the right place.

-Craig

Little Al

thanks guys.

I will make up the template before I bring it, just so he has a guide and yes, i wanna have them all fixed, all of them are kinda shaky
Little Al

Ultrashovel

Weld deposition metal is extremely hard, usually 70,000 rating. If you fill with weld, you'll have a difficult time drilling and tapping.

What I've done with these in the past is to make or buy a tubing insert with the proper size thread inside, probably 3/8-16. Then I drill the spot straight through for the sleeve and press it in. A bit of braze or a tack weld will hold it.


mark61

January 15, 2009, 02:41:44 PM #5 Last Edit: January 15, 2009, 02:43:18 PM by mark61
   I weld and redrill / tap holes like these everyday. The trick it to drill out past where the tap will cut the new threads. Ei: if you are going to retap 1/2" threads drill out to atleast 17/32" better yet 9/16" before welding. It is the weld bond area that gets hard.

    As bad as that mount it why not just have a new one made and welded on? No more work than welding and redrilling.

mark61

Little Al

Mark,

It's really not that bad and I'm sure a good welder can fix me up pretty good.

I'm gonna let my welder make a final decision with me on what's the best approach. I like the idea suggested of putting in threads (time-sert, helicoil, sleeve) and have it welded in along with a little extra added on at that screwy area then I can grind it down and shape it with patience to get it to match the right side and the original curve. The 2 studs just need to have all that extra metal ground off then re-welded (but a good job this time!).

I expect to get the frame over to the welder this week or early next week the latest.

Thanks evryone for your suggestions and I'll let you know (with pictures) what we did and how it turned out.
Little Al