FXR 2 Into 1 Exhaust Systems

[Buddy WMC]

Morning All,
As some of you know, I completed a recent 85" engine build on my 93 FXLR. Considering my combination the HP @ 98.6 and TQ at 95.3 is pretty stout and was better than anticipated. My Dyno operator ( a trusted friend), belives that there is still more there and that the bottleneck is the exhaust system. I really do not care for the look of a 2 into 1 system and prefer the traditional staggered dual look and am currently running Samson F-109 staggered duals. However, if the engine will benefit from the 2 into 1 system then I will consider it even though it seems very pricey.

After searching through several catalogs, I can only seem to find one system available for my year FXR that will fit with mid-controls. That would be a Thunderheader available through Dennis Kirk.

My question to the board is does anyone run these, are they worth almost $600.00 and how do they mount on the bike? Any other suggestions or name brands still in porduction would be most appreciated.

Thanks in advance to all who participate,
Buddy....

[Reddog74usa]

If your patien you can score a good deal on ebay. I will be running a Bassani Road Rage on my 94 FXLR. The info says fits FXD but they fit up well by just using a 3/4 inch spacer off the trans. The RR is a better pipe without the TH dip. I got my RR through American classic motors. They sell on ebay also. Good price and fast good price shipping.

[BKACHE]

Just a warning on a FXR. If you are thinking about a RBRacing pipe, my buddy ordered one for his FXRS. He was unable to get it to fit and I now run it on my FXS.
Thunderheader is a good pipe to go with and more friendly to the customer if any issues arise.   

[Flat Dog]

AFAIK the average 2:1 is designed to improve low-mid range performance, and kills peak HP and torque compared to a true stepped drag 2:1 collector.

I am not convinced that a pro pipe or thunderheader will squeeze any more performance out at the top of the ladder-may even do the opposite. My setup seems to peak at 5000 or so, and I think I could squeeze a bit more out at the top with true stepped drags (3 step) rather than the 2:1.

I also have to remind myself that I am not supposed to be street racing...

[baldoldfxr]

Super trapp are good & easy to adjust to suit your engine setup, apart from possibly the mounting bracket any Evo one & early twin cam ones will fit.

[hrdtail78]

I like TH's and suggest one for my buddies FXRS.  I agree with photo John with the lose of top end.  Didn't realy show up until 5500 or so.  Your peak HP might go down but you might see a rise in your peak TQ.  Bending 2 of his baffles did get rid of the TQ dip and flattened out his TQ curve.  BTW it's what he wanted.  Low and midrange is used more than peak rpm's.  Just something to think about.

[Buddy WMC]

Thanks for the replies guys, just gives me some more ideas to think about. Just looking to maximize what I have ( the bike has been dynoed), without going overboard. Actually it is an animal as it sits and perhaps also has a bit too much cam duration. If it makes sense, I'm looking for a little more down low without screwing up the midrange and top end.

[Reddog74usa]

Here's a couple pics of a Road Rage on my 87 FXRS with a twin cam in it. This pipe is great for low end as it is a stepped header design. This 95 incher broke 100 ft lbs by 2350 rpm and made 118 Tq 108 HP.

[Flat Dog]

Buddy, I have my dyno tune scheduled for Feb 5th-they are giving me a deal too good to pass up.

I'll post the sheet so we can see what that shorter duration cam and pipe combo is doing.

[FLTRI]

'That would be a Thunderheader".....yes the T/H IMO, is the standard of peak Hp/TQ, unless, of course you are willing to toss out the baby with the wash. (kill everything below 4500rpm)

[Buddy WMC]

RD,

Thanks for the pics, nice looking system!!

John,
Keep me posted on your results! My torque curve is flat now from the hit of the throttle to 100mph on the Dyno in 4th gear. The HP curve is a steady climb until 5800rpm when the carb goes fat and the curve falls off. The Dyna 2000 rev limiter is set at 6000 anyways and I've not hit it yet. The less duration on your 5010 may also help in lieu of my longer 5015, your dyno results may also help.

Interstate power is no longer a problem with this engine combination and the addition of the Baker six speed. Just looking for a little more a little quicker down low for the around town jaunts, where I seldom get out of 4th gear.

[Bullwinkle]

The choices are getting thin, but there are still some out there.  Buy while you can, our beloved FXRs are getting obsolete.  Sigh.

D&D makes an excellent system for an FXR with mid controls, the Fat Cat.  I have one on mine and it is -strong-.  With the stock baffle it can be loud, but you can order it with the Quiet Baffle, which is what I did.  It doesn't offend the neighbors and will sound off when you twist its tail.  It's not listed on their web site, but it is available. There are several good threads about them over on V-twinforum.com, as well as recommendations on good dealers to order them from.  The denizens there say it is every bit as good as the RB Racing pipe, but without the low end dip and is quieter.  I haven't had any experience with RB Racing, but am well satisfied with my D&D.

Hooker also makes a 2-1.  I have one for sale if anyone wants it.  -Very- good for torque, but it fell off a little on the top end with my 111.  Probably would be good with a smaller engine.  I think Hooker makes a 2-2 as well.

Cycle Shack also makes a 2-1, PHD-323, for the FXR.  I can't say about that particular pipe, but their 2-2 pipes always are at the top of everyone's horsepower tests, but are loud.  They say the 2-1, "(it barks but doesn't bite)".  Whatever that means.  Nightrider.com has some exhaust comparisons and the Cycle Shack do pretty well.  Their 2-1 isn't tested but the 2-2 works well.

Evo:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust_test_01.htm

TC:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust_test_02.htm

FWIW, YMMV, etc.

Bullwinkle

[Reddog74usa]

The Fat Cat is also a great choice and is the only other pipe I would personally consider however they are heavy and in my opinion do not sound as good as a Road Rage. Your best bet is to see em and hear em if you can

[FLTRI]

"Your best bet is to see em and hear em if you can"

[Buddy WMC]

Bullwinkle,
Please PM me about that system if it will fit with mid controls.

RD,
Good advice, but I have the only oldy but goodie in the area that's not been hacked up or is a piece of junk. That's why she draws attention and I want it done right  

[FLTRI]

Buddy,
Wanna great pipe for an incredible price?
Check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harley-Davidson-FXR-Thunderheader-NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem320331372784QQitemZ320331372784QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Hope this helps,
Bob

[Buddy WMC]

FLTRI,
Thanks for thinking about me and for providing the link. I did take a look at that system when listed and although it is a great price, my bike is in show condition. I'd rather install a new or like new system and then have the bike re-dynoed.

[FLTRI]

FLTRI,
Thanks for thinking about me and for providing the link. I did take a look at that system when listed and although it is a great price, my bike is in show condition. I'd rather install a new or like new system and then have the bike re-dynoed.

Consider this:
When dynoing a bike there is heat produced that can and will discolor the pipes, especially @ the first bend out the head as well as anywhere in the muff(s) that a baffle starts restricting exhaust.
This, believe it or nott, is the true reason for heat shields, not to protect you from heat (just touch a heat shiels after the bike has been run on the freeway or in traffic for just a few minutes), but to hide dicoloration.

So the resolve is either never create heat in your pipe by riding it agressively, or use 1 pipe to dyno and a new one to replace the dynoed/blued one AND then don't ride it agressively.
Bob

[Buddy WMC]

FLTRI

Yep, Been there and done that already on the third Dyno pull

Bullwinkle,
Personal e-mail in your box.

[FLTRI]

Bullwinkle,
Not yet....may want to copy me in PM?
Bob

[Flat Dog]

No Dyno still, but I can feel the propipe come on at 2800, and really go balls to the wall at 3k plus with no reversion problems.

Do I miss drags? Hell yes! Do I miss the performance difference? No, altho a set of khromewerks baffles in drags made a nice fat midrange difference.

[FLTRI]

No Dyno still, but I can feel the propipe come on at 2800, and really go balls to the wall at 3k plus with no reversion problems.

Do I miss drags? Hell yes! Do I miss the performance difference? No, although a set of khromewerks baffles in drags made a nice fat midrange difference.

The reason you feel the power come on @ 2800 just may be due to a lean area. A lot of customers tell me their engine really starts pulling about 2500-3000 depending on the lean area created from the exhaust change. 2into1s work a lot better in that area so they need more fuel. After the tune they find out it then pulls from 1500-2000 up, depending on build.
Just saying,
Bob

[Buddy WMC]

Bob,
to keep you in the loop, Rocky (Bullwinkle), e-mailed some photos of his current exhaust system and it does look sweet. For the time being I might try that used set of Hookers that he has to see what the Dyno says and if they show any improvement. They should work on my modified 85" engine, but were too small for his stroker motor. We are also looking into a bit less duration on the cam, but do not want to make too many changes at once. I'll keep you all updated.