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Adaptive Knock Retard

Started by 05Train, October 18, 2011, 02:41:24 PM

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05Train

I've been playing around with the MyTune software to get my timing optimized in conjunction with the TTS.  The results have been nothing less than breathtaking (2-3 mpg improvement, much punchier acceleration, no timing pulled anywhere now).  But then it occurred to me that I never turned the AKR off.  Are the values reset every time I re-flash the ECM, or do I need to start over again?
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'12 FLHTCUSE7

05Train

Well Ok then......Guess I'll try a run with it shut off and see if there's any difference.  I'd assume that the values are reset when the ECM's re-flashed, but what the heck.

2005 Vivid Black Night Train - Lots 'o black
'12 FLHTCUSE7

wolf_59

I believe you are correct any auto adjust type features in TTS are reset each time you re-flash

pauly

G'day Train,

Wolf is right on the money - the AKR tables are calculated (adapted ;-)) over time, but zeroed with each re-map.

Did you find MyTune did what you would have done (manually) to the timing tables or were there differences?

Pauly

05Train

#4
Quote from: pauly on October 20, 2011, 04:51:52 AMDid you find MyTune did what you would have done (manually) to the timing tables or were there differences?
It did, but it did it much quicker.  Literally, I was able to do in an hour what it had taken me 2 weeks to do manually.  I don't know how the algorithm works, but it appears to work around the knock event pretty intelligently and progressively.  It also works in 1/4 degree steps.  Over the course of 5 runs (10-15 minutes each), it pulled a total of 2 degrees out of a couple of places, but it did so 1/2-3/4 degree at a time.  What's really interesting is that the ECM was yanking between 6-8 degrees through some of these events.  With the 2 degrees removed, there's no more timing being pulled.

What I've been doing is adding a degree everywhere, then letting the software pull it back where necessary (this can be done on the side of the road in about 30 seconds).  Then it's just a matter of pasting the corrected timing tables back into MasterTune, saving and reloading the map, then recording again.

I'm at the point now where I think I've maxed out some of the rarely used/difficult to hit areas, and I'll start targeting a few more areas where I think I can add a bit more.

Hell, maybe I'll just post my map tonight when I get home and see what y'all think.
2005 Vivid Black Night Train - Lots 'o black
'12 FLHTCUSE7

Steve Cole

Once pinging has started it take 3 -4 times as much timing removed to stop it. So the trick is to locate it and then remove a small amount to not allow it to ever start. One thing to remember is that when doing the timing you are only setting it in the conditions the engine has run in. So be careful, because if you get it to close to the edge and the weather warms up or your riding loaded versus unloaded you may get your pinging back.
The Best you know, is the Best you've had........ not necessarily the Best.

05Train

Quote from: Steve Cole on October 20, 2011, 10:36:36 AM
Once pinging has started it take 3 -4 times as much timing removed to stop it. So the trick is to locate it and then remove a small amount to not allow it to ever start. One thing to remember is that when doing the timing you are only setting it in the conditions the engine has run in. So be careful, because if you get it to close to the edge and the weather warms up or your riding loaded versus unloaded you may get your pinging back.
Yup, I thought about that.  Unfortunately it's cooling off here, so my last dozen or so timing runs were made in the high 70s.  That'll certainly hold through winter, but I'll have to take another crack at it in the spring when we get back into the 80s.  But there's certainly some logic to having both a winter and a summer map.
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'12 FLHTCUSE7

Steve Cole

No need for two calibrations. That is why we have the "Spark Temperature Correction" table in our software. This allows you to adjust for temperature changes. So you can see one needs to apply what is going on in more than one table when adjusting the spark. If you only have a front cylinder knock then you have to go to that table but if you have knock from both cylinders one must be careful and look at the temperature as it may be much better to adjust from the temperature table than the cylinder tables.
The Best you know, is the Best you've had........ not necessarily the Best.

05Train

Quote from: Steve Cole on October 20, 2011, 02:11:49 PM
No need for two calibrations. That is why we have the "Spark Temperature Correction" table in our software. This allows you to adjust for temperature changes. So you can see one needs to apply what is going on in more than one table when adjusting the spark. If you only have a front cylinder knock then you have to go to that table but if you have knock from both cylinders one must be careful and look at the temperature as it may be much better to adjust from the temperature table than the cylinder tables.
So should the "Spark Temperature Correction" table be zeroed out when doing timing runs?
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'12 FLHTCUSE7

05Train

#9
Not sure if this is gonna work, but here's the map.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/46283508/101811final.MT8
2005 Vivid Black Night Train - Lots 'o black
'12 FLHTCUSE7

uscanuck

Train, are you using the MyTune software on the Ultra?

05Train

Quote from: uscanuck on October 20, 2011, 03:44:23 PM
Train, are you using the MyTune software on the Ultra?
Yes.  The VE-related stuff doesn't work on the '09-up Touring bikes, and isn't needed with the TTS software.  But if you construct a set of custom axes, it works just fine for the timing.
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'12 FLHTCUSE7

05Train

Here's the spark advance graphs so far....






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05Train

Bizarre.  Did 5 more runs today, was able to add nearly a full degree across the board in the rear cylinder, got a lot more timing pulled up front in the 50-80kPa range from 2250-3000rpm.  Ambient temperature was much cooler today too.  For the life of me, I can't figure this out.  The rear cylinder can't get enough timing, the front is exploding when I gas it from cruising speed.


Mayor, any thoughts?
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'12 FLHTCUSE7

Coyote

Quote from: 05Train on October 21, 2011, 03:17:00 PM
Bizarre.  Did 5 more runs today, was able to add nearly a full degree across the board in the rear cylinder, got a lot more timing pulled up front in the 50-80kPa range from 2250-3000rpm.  Ambient temperature was much cooler today too.  For the life of me, I can't figure this out.  The rear cylinder can't get enough timing, the front is exploding when I gas it from cruising speed.


Mayor, any thoughts?

Swap or replace your spark plugs. I had one of mine pulling timing all over but I could not every hear any knock... new plugs fixed it.

05Train

Quote from: Coyote on October 21, 2011, 03:28:24 PM
Quote from: 05Train on October 21, 2011, 03:17:00 PM
Bizarre.  Did 5 more runs today, was able to add nearly a full degree across the board in the rear cylinder, got a lot more timing pulled up front in the 50-80kPa range from 2250-3000rpm.  Ambient temperature was much cooler today too.  For the life of me, I can't figure this out.  The rear cylinder can't get enough timing, the front is exploding when I gas it from cruising speed.


Mayor, any thoughts?

Swap or replace your spark plugs. I had one of mine pulling timing all over but I could not every hear any knock... new plugs fixed it.
Did that (thanks to your post about that elsewhere).  The plugs only have 4,000 miles on them.
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'12 FLHTCUSE7

mayor

I think you are trying to run too much timing in some places, and not running enough in some places.  Keep in mind that just because there's no timing being pulled, doesn't mean that you aren't over advanced for maximum tq. 

based on the compare to original, it looks like you've been pulling timing out of the 2,750-3,250 55-65 kPa areas (green circles). 



I personally think timing rates should have a nice flow, meaning smooth transitions.  I do not think that timing should ever need to be reduced as you go down a column (lower rpm to higher at a particular MAP range), but that takes one thing for granted: the timing in the above cell(s) was correct. I also don't think that timing should increase on a row as the MAP increases (from 40 kPa and greater MAP). With that in mind, I think you need to work on the blue circled areas.

I also think you can reduce your maximum advance to a maximum of 45 degrees (purple circled areas).

The high MAP from 2k-3,750 (orange circles) looks to be under advanced.  My guess is you should be able to add more timing in those areas, and if your are getting pulled timing there try adding to the ve's. 
warning, this poster suffers from bizarre delusions

05Train

Thanks Mayor.  I VTuned the piss out of this map, but (as usual) the 95 & 100 kPa areas were blended.  I'll try running VTune tomorrow to check the VEs, and see if the higher areas can take any more advance.
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05Train

I collected some really good data today in the mountains.  Got a chunk of timing out in the midrange, a couple of other spots up top in both cylinders.  I chopped the max advance to 45 degrees in the front and 46 degrees in the rear, and blended things a bit.  I probably won't get a chance to ride again 'till the weekend to see how it goes.  I'm about 400 miles from my 45,000 mile service, so once I do that (fresh oil and clean air filter) I'll take a stab at a couple of VTune runs to see how the VEs are with the timing changes.
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'12 FLHTCUSE7

Jeffd

Quote from: 05Train on October 23, 2011, 05:57:54 PM
I collected some really good data today in the mountains.  Got a chunk of timing out in the midrange, a couple of other spots up top in both cylinders.  I chopped the max advance to 45 degrees in the front and 46 degrees in the rear, and blended things a bit.  I probably won't get a chance to ride again 'till the weekend to see how it goes.  I'm about 400 miles from my 45,000 mile service, so once I do that (fresh oil and clean air filter) I'll take a stab at a couple of VTune runs to see how the VEs are with the timing changes.

I know Steve Cole says 45* should be max.

pauly

I can vouch for the 45 degree thing.. I had some 46ers in my map, and Mayor (bless'im) suggested I take them back to 45.. Smoother bike now - even though 46 or 47 would be ok (no knock retard events).

Pauly

05Train

Loaded the new map with the "smoothed" timing.  Bike doesn't seem like its lost any punch, felt a little smoother (granted it was just commuting this morning).  I'll datalog on the way home and see how it looks.
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'12 FLHTCUSE7

mayor

warning, this poster suffers from bizarre delusions

05Train

More explosions up front this afternoon.  I made the changes, blended everything around where timing was being pulled, and made my max advance (in the rear) 45 degrees.  I'm going to finish my 45k service, then go back to VTuning, as something just doesn't seem right.  When I did my VE tables, I erred to the richer side.  Any corrections I see on cursory VTune runs are reductions in VE, so I can't see this being a fuel issue.

But something is goofy in the front cylinder, as there's a 12-15 degree difference in the midrange and high-MAP areas between the front and the rear.
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'12 FLHTCUSE7

lonewolf

Quote from: 05Train on October 24, 2011, 03:10:05 PM
More explosions up front this afternoon. 
Are you sure they are real?