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Replacing Cylinder Studs

Started by gaillarry, January 15, 2009, 11:44:24 AM

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gaillarry

My top end is out for a rebuild (86 FLHTC) and one of the recommendations from this forum was to replace the cyl studs.  The new studs came in today. They have the shoulder on them, so they are the newer type.

Whats the best way to remove the old ones and install the new ones???
1992 Heritage Softail Classic
Ontario, Canada

hdjax2

January 15, 2009, 11:51:39 AM #1 Last Edit: January 15, 2009, 11:53:35 AM by hdjax2
Put 2 nuts on and tighten them against each other then wrench them out using the bottom one. If your just gonna pitch them you could just use vise grips on them also. Install the new ones with the double nut method and torque to spec's. Dont forget the loctite also.
Stuck in Lodi, Ca

gaillarry

Thanks for the info, but I just read the manual and it says to use an impact gun!
1992 Heritage Softail Classic
Ontario, Canada

Panzer

What are you going to put the impact gun on?
Do it like HDjax said it works.
Don't use vise grips to install them.
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

FSG

Quote from: gaillarry on January 15, 2009, 12:09:20 PM
Thanks for the info, but I just read the manual and it says to use an impact gun!

Whose manual, HD ?  Give me page number and verse please.

gaillarry

Quote from: Fatboy_SirGarfield on January 15, 2009, 01:00:30 PM
Quote from: gaillarry on January 15, 2009, 12:09:20 PM
Thanks for the info, but I just read the manual and it says to use an impact gun!

Whose manual, HD ?  Give me page number and verse please.

HD Manual, 84-90 FLT/FXR models, page 3-38 and page 3-39

1992 Heritage Softail Classic
Ontario, Canada

tinkerman

I asked for some info on cyl studs here a week or so ago and I got basically the same info.

Use impact gun with a cap nut and ball bearing underneath to protect top threads on stud. The impact gun advantage is that you won't bend the studs off to the side as if you were pulling on a wrench. (careful not to lose that ball bearing down in the cases)I can see this but the idea of hammering in the studs with my impact gun just doesn't do it for me.

When I get my studs I was gonna double nut them and turn them in with a wrench or socket and do the 90 degrees after seated or the torque value. Problebly the torque value as I can't see how you can go wrong with a torque value. As for pulling the studs off to one side when tightening I just plan to keep that in mind and not do it.  :wink:

One thing I have found about this site is that there is a wealth of info here. Bewteen the shop manual and the opinions you may get on any topic the onus is still on the guy doing the work to pick the method that works best for him. (or her)

Good luck with the rebuild.

Tinkerman

Living on a rock out in the North Atlantic, HTT member since 8/1/2003

FSG

Thanks, it's always nice to see that sort of thing in print, at least the manual has a cavet "install the studs to the depth of the painted line .....".

BUT it's no longer valid as your using new style cylinder studs which should have come with instructions, else use

M-1043, New Cylinder Base Gaskets and Cylinder Studs

found in the HarleyTechTalk > Documents & FAQ's > Instruction Sheets that have been found > HD > Service Bulletins  Section.

gaillarry

Fatboy_SirGarield:  Thanks for the updated info.  I have the new type studs but no instructions from the dealer.
With only 10lbs torque I can't see why the doublenut method can't be used, if care is taken not to twist the stud.  I dislike the idea of using an impact gun. I think its overkill for such a low torque setting.
1992 Heritage Softail Classic
Ontario, Canada

JBarrettB

Use the double nut method to remove the old studs. Use the cap screw and bearing(Sportster ball from the ball and ramp clutch release assembly) to install the new ones. Use an air ratchet to run the studs in only. This way you do not stress the studs and install them straight. Once the stud is very close to bottomed on the shoulder, use a torque wrench to set the proper tension on them. I prefer an inch pound wrench for such a low torque setting. Lastly remove the cap screw and ball. The ball will allow the cap screw to break free of the stud without effecting the set torque. The new studs have locktite patches and do not require any additional application.
This is how to do the job correctly.

JB 
CAUTION: Comments may be sarcastic, clarification available upon request.

JBarrettB

Final thought, the shoulder goes down toward the case on the -85c stud. Just to avoid any confusion.

JB
CAUTION: Comments may be sarcastic, clarification available upon request.

Panzer

According to his manual pics, the shoulder goes up.......I'll stick with the manual.
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

JBarrettB

Quote from: Fatboy_SirGarfield on January 15, 2009, 02:13:22 PM
Thanks, it's always nice to see that sort of thing in print, at least the manual has a cavet "install the studs to the depth of the painted line .....".

BUT it's no longer valid as your using new style cylinder studs which should have come with instructions, else use

M-1043, New Cylinder Base Gaskets and Cylinder Studs

found in the HarleyTechTalk > Documents & FAQ's > Instruction Sheets that have been found > HD > Service Bulletins  Section.


Don't make a serious mistake.

JB
CAUTION: Comments may be sarcastic, clarification available upon request.

FSG

Quote from: Panzer on January 15, 2009, 07:23:22 PM
According to his manual pics, the shoulder goes up.......I'll stick with the manual.

Panzer his manual shows the old studs and he's going to install the newer style studs, have a read of the M-1043.

gaillarry

I'll use the new method, shoulder down and measure just to make sure.
1992 Heritage Softail Classic
Ontario, Canada