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What size.........

Started by June2017, January 15, 2009, 12:03:13 PM

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June2017

January 15, 2009, 12:03:13 PM Last Edit: January 15, 2009, 12:12:06 PM by Roadglide
I'm taking my rear wheel off my 2006 Road Glide and wanted to know what size nut was on that rear axle so I can remove it.  I've gotten to the point of needing to remove this nut but I dont have one big enough. 

Also,......this is the first time removing the rear wheel on this 2006, and it's a tad different then my 2001 EG that I use to have.  I marked the camber (I think it's called that) on the swingarm and the camber itself so I know how far to turn it when I put the assemby back together.  Is this the correct way of doing it ?   What I'm doing is removing the wheel to install a new tire.   

Also,......whats the torque for retighting this axle nut ?

Skin

36 mm or 1 7/16"  95-105 ft-lbs.

stro1965

It's "big ass crescent wrench" size.  At least mine was.  As far as the torque goes, my Sears torque wrench only goes up to 75 ft lbs.  I just cranked it as tight as I could get it.

Bigs

What skin said but make sure both the snail adjusters are against the stops on the swingarm. I tightened mine after putting on a new tire and found the bike pulling to the right so I checked the adjusters and found the right one was not against the stop. All I did has loosen the nut and tap it with a brass drift to get it against the stop and then re-torqued the nut. Just make sure the belt tension is correct.
   Bigs

MiracleMax

Marking the cams will get you close (probably close enough), but to do it right, moco sells an inexpensive ($15?) tool tells you when you have 10# pressure on the drive belt. At this tension you measure the deflection. I don't remember exactly what that deflection is at the moment, but I could look it up if need be. I believe it's something like 3/4".

PoorUB

If you RTFM it will tell you to push the wheel forward, snug the axle nut, the adjust the belt, then torque the axle. This way the adjusters should be against the stops when you are done.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

hdjax2

I do it like PoorUB says but I also like to have someone sitting on the bike so the axle is seated at the top of the slot in the swingarm.
Stuck in Lodi, Ca

June2017

LOL,......I forgot the Harley Tool Kit had a 36 MM wrench in it so I was good to go !  Go the wheel off, and used my wifes nail polish to get a good idea on where the camber needs to be.  I do have the HD Belt Tensioner tool, and if someone knows the deflection then I'll take it. 

I also took some  sand paper to the axle, and I also need to buy some all High Temperature Grease so I can grease the axle parts up.  Any recomendations on the type of grease to use ? 

EZGlider

The axle is sealed, what were you going to grease?  The newer belts (06 included) use a tighter spec than before, think its 1/4 to 3/8ths.  I just use 1/2 because it always seems too tight at the spec given and whines.  Maybe just my imperfect methods though.  I adjust cold, with no weight in the saddle and that works for me.

June2017

I smear grease on the axle itself,................you dont ?   :dgust: 

stro1965


triumphbruce

i use the standard harley torque i learned years ago
2 turns passed striped back off one LOL

MiracleMax

The manual for my '02 RoadGlide lists the deflection at 5/16 - 3/8 with bike on ground and no rider, or 1/4 - 5/16 with a body in the saddle.

Rags722

I'm sure this will seem like an absolute no brainer, but the first time I remounted a rear tire with the cam system, everything seemed to go well, but the assembly would not stay against the weld nub on each side ( prior to torqueing ).  Seemed pretty stupid, but I could push it forward, and as soon as I let go of the tire the rotor side would back up 1/8 to 1/4 inch.  So, after several tries and checking the shop manual, I called my buddy (an Indy), and after he got done laughing told me to check to see if I had dislodged the rubber "bumper" that rides on the anchor weldment.  I had, and it was forcing everything out of alignment.  For the life of me, I can't find any mention of this rubber in the service manual, or in any of the photos of the rear caliper, but I know it does exist on my 05 at the very least.  As easy as my friend diagonosed the "problem" I'm guessing he has seen it before.

June2017

"to see if I had dislodged the rubber "bumper" that rides on the anchor weldment"

What is this ?  Is this that piece of rubber that separates the swingarm to the caliper ?  That's the only rubber that I saw when I pulled it apart.  Anyone have a picture of this ? 

truck

I believe he is referring to the bumper inside the weldment that prevents the brake caliper from spinning around.
Listen to the jingle the rumble and the roar.

HDSlowride

I always put some anti-seize on an axle. I have seen plenty of bikes that don't get many miles that are corroded onto the wheel bearing races and are a bear to get loose.

Snug the axle nut up a bit before adjusting the cam and hold the other side to keep it from moving while you crank down on the nut. The belt needs to be pretty snug or it will likely squeek. I wish they used the same adjusters as the softails which are a lot easier for me to get the belt tension correct.

I take the bottom shock bolts out which is easier for me than taking a muffler loose when I remove the axle. YMMV
'07 Ultra Classic

June2017

Thanks for the Tip HDSlowride.